| bo8109b | -- 04-28-2010 @ 4:18 PM |
|
Replaced the rear brake lines on my '48, filled the resoirvile with fluid and it wouldn't pump fluid. Is there a way to bleed the master cylinder without taking it off?
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-28-2010 @ 4:43 PM |
|
the way you can try to bleed the brakes is crack the rr bleeder screw, put you finger over the hole and have someone pump the brake pedal slowly. all the way down all the way up,you should feel the air escaping.your finger acts like a one way valve.its a little messy but should work, once no air comes out, go to the next bleeder, make sure you do all 4 wheel cylinders, you might have to go around a few time to get a hard pedal, also adjust the brakes might help. hope this helps KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37RAGTOPMAN you also have air in the front,if the master went empty. you can bleed the master, but has special copper washers on the bolt , these may cause a leak , if you distrub them
|
|
| jerry.grayson | -- 04-28-2010 @ 6:32 PM |
|
The bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders may be stopped up. Take one all the way out and see if you can pump fluid.
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-29-2010 @ 12:09 PM |
|
It takes two people, or a bleeder machine, to do the job. Fill the master cylinder reservoir completely, and have an assistant pump the pedal and then hold it down. Open one of the bleeder screws to let either air or fluid out, THEN tell the assistant to let up on the pedal. Re check the fluid level in the master, and repeat the process until you get a "hard" pedal. It will take a number of tries on each rear wheel to get all the air out. Then, be sure to bleed the front brakes, as well, to be sure all air is out. Don't be surprised if it take a lot of fluid for the job, sometimes a gallon or more, if manually bleeding. We use a bleeding tank, and still it takes a lot of fluid after a master cylinder is replaced, even if it is "bench bled" before it was installed. If you have an air leak at any of the connections on your new line, it is unlikely you will be able to fully bleed the system.
|
|
| Stroker | -- 04-29-2010 @ 3:00 PM |
|
I now use a Wagner "bleeder-ball", power bleeder, but using Super's advice, I would simply add the following "one-person" method I've used many times when my brother was too busy to push the brake pedal: 1. Borrow a "Mason Jar" from your mother, wife or local moonshiner. 2. Secure a 30 inch length of 1/8" ID rubber tubing, and screw a 1/4 inch nut over the outside of the tubing at one end for a weight. 3. Fill the Mason jar with new (has to be clear) brake fluid, and connect the tubing to the bleeder fitting at the RR wheel cylinder, with the weighted end at the bottom of the brake fluid-filled Mason jar. 4. Using either an adjustable "prop-rod" or a broom stick handle sawed to the appropriate length, apply pressure and slight movement from the front seat springs to the brake pedal. A second person is always better, but you need to tell them to "yell" before the pedal reaches the floor, so you can turn the bleeder valve off. 5. Open the bleeder valve just a "little", and observe the bubbles in the Mason jar. As Super says, you will have to do this several times, as you have to move all the entrapped air from the lines, hoses, etc. Once the bubbles quit, immediately close the bleeder valve, and repeat the process until no bubbles appear in the Mason jar. 6. Move to the Left Rear, and repeat the above. The sequence is: RR-LR-RF-LF which corresponds to the length of the brake lines, with RR being the longest, and LF being the shortest. Best of Luck!
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1162 |