| jefferey | -- 01-28-2018 @ 5:46 PM |
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Does anyone run synthetic oil in their Flathead. If so what weight for just summer use? Thanks, Jefferey
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| MG | -- 01-28-2018 @ 8:34 PM |
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I use Mobil 1 - 15W 50 in my '34. Been using it for years now....
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| flatheadfan | -- 01-29-2018 @ 1:32 PM |
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A couple of years back I switched to Mobil 1 in my '36LB engine and it didn't work for me. First, the oil found leaks I didn't know I had. Second, the oil pressure at idle was 15 pounds with 30-40 mineral oil. With the Mobil 1 it dropped to 7 pounds. Obviously I can't speak for others. Tom
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| Drbrown | -- 01-29-2018 @ 6:55 PM |
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I use FULL synthetic in the family's newer cars because they prescribe it. In regard to your particular car, synthetic or not, a number of factors may affect what grade of oil is better. For my 59AB engine I use standard high detergent Pennz oil 10w-30 due to my northern climate, year-round. I have no filter so change every 1000 miles. Engine rebuild has 35,000 miles, oil stays relatively clean, doesn't burn oil, and AT IDLE have 70 psi cold and 20-25 psi when hot (175 degrees). So the 10w-30 grade works well for my particular car. Another factor in lubrication of my engine is that I add MMO to my gas to improve valve guide lubrication.
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| fiveof10 | -- 01-30-2018 @ 7:56 PM |
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I am new to the group, just putting together flathead for my '39 Coupe. I have been doing a little bit of work researching engine oils . It appears that modern oil formulations are not compatible with the older engines, largely due to the addition of detergents and reduction/elimination of Zinc. Haggerty produced an article/video on this subject that is available online. Contact me for a link to it or a couple of producers of oil compatible with early V8s. This message was edited by fiveof10 on 1-30-18 @ 7:57 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 01-30-2018 @ 9:40 PM |
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Mobyl 1 15-50 in my 59L engine. No significant leaks and no other possible related problems, even though I cruise at 70 -75 when i have the opportunity. The mention of reduction in zinc content is valid when speaking of problems with early Oldsmobile overhead valve engines, but flatheads have significantly weaker valve springs, so no problem on that issue. Detergent oil being a different discussion, but since it was brought up, changing oil at proper intervals is always best, but more so with the suspension of particles rather than settling to the bottom, which produces its own set of problems. Engines with oil filters obviously fare even better. Specialty oil with very "special" prices have zinc, and zinc additives are also available, but again, not needed in a Ford Flathead. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 1-30-18 @ 9:41 PM
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| onedon | -- 01-31-2018 @ 5:41 AM |
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I have a number of old scooters and cars. I always ran straight 30 wt. Trop Artic. I called them about 2 mo. ago and asked what they recommended. They asked about what vehicles I wished to know specificly.---57 cad,36 ford 37 ford scooters, she said to use oil recommended for diesels because of the other oil removal of zinc and a few other chemc. I've switched to that with no problems. If you look at the back of the oil bottle you will see a toll free number you can call and see what they recommend. Seems there is so much confusion about oil now that they have people ready to help. This message was edited by onedon on 1-31-18 @ 5:43 AM
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