JohnA | -- 12-15-2017 @ 1:16 PM |
My 48 2dr has been sitting for 8-10 months,can"t seem to get fuel to fuel pump.I know my gas tanks liquid bladder seems to be deteriorating,I"m getting white flasks in my glass bowl on pump,but still should suck some gas through,any ideas how to force gas up to pump.Have a least 1/2 tank full of gas.
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carcrazy | -- 12-15-2017 @ 3:04 PM |
There are a couple of things you can do. First make sure you have a good seal between the glass bowl of the fuel pump and the fuel pump housing. Once you are sure you have a good seal at this place, spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner inlet and try to start the engine. If you have a functioning ignition system, the engine will try to start and run. While the engine is trying to run the pump will be operating at sufficient speed to pull fuel up to the engine. If the engine does not start up and run on its own after the first application of starting fluid, repeat this step two more times. If the engine will still not start and run on its own, disconnect the fuel line at the inlet to the pump and blow air into the fuel line back to the tank to clear out any debris. Once you have done this, repeat the first step and the engine should start and run.
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JohnA | -- 12-15-2017 @ 3:17 PM |
will try.Thanks
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JohnA | -- 12-15-2017 @ 3:20 PM |
car does run when I pour gas down carb.
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shogun1940 | -- 12-22-2017 @ 2:44 PM |
You could pressuriz. The tank with low pressure to see if the fuel is flowing to the pump it does not take much pressure
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nelsb01 | -- 12-22-2017 @ 3:07 PM |
If you are concerned about fuel pump working -- disconnect fuel line to tank and use new hose to create a temp line to a gas can. I have known a few guys who have moved their cars around the yard by this method, and one who even drive 30 miles this way.
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woodiewagon46 | -- 12-22-2017 @ 5:39 PM |
As shogun suggests, pressurize the tank. Don't pressurize the fuel line and blowback any sediment in the lines into the tank.
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trjford8 | -- 12-23-2017 @ 11:00 AM |
if you are getting white flakes in the sediment bowl your tank pickup tube is probably plugged up with the old sealer. Forcing the motor to run can also contaminate your carburetor.. Pull the tank, flush the fuel lines, and clean out the sediment bowl. The next step is to clean the tank, but you may not get all the old sealer out of it. I recommend you put in a new tank. It was probably sealed due to rust and the new gas ate away at the sealer. I had a the same problem years ago and put in a new tank. It was well worth the money and time. This message was edited by trjford8 on 12-23-17 @ 11:03 AM
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len47merc | -- 12-23-2017 @ 3:18 PM |
It was on my agenda to reply today but trjford8 beat me to the punch. Surprised by some of the replies above - trjford8's response is on the money and is the only option I personally would endorse, although I'd have the 'original' tank professionally evaluated as to whether it can be effectively cleaned and if so, whether the resulting tank is worth sealing and future use. Additionally... I'd clean out ALL fuel line components, including back flushing the fuel line itself, including but not limited to a soaking of SeaFoam then reverse-direction application of heavy air and repeat, wrapping a clean cloth/sock around the rear end to catch debris and determine when you've gotten it 'all' out. Steve
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woodiewagon46 | -- 12-23-2017 @ 5:35 PM |
Hey, Len, what exactly is "Sea Foam"? I have seen it in my local auto parts store but never picked up a can to check it out.
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trjford8 | -- 12-24-2017 @ 7:28 AM |
JohnA, there's a brand new '41-48 gas tank for sale in the parts section of the classifieds on this site. $200 plus shipping. Cleaning and resealing your existing tank will probably cost you at least the same amount. This message was edited by trjford8 on 12-24-17 @ 7:29 AM
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Cecil/WV | -- 12-26-2017 @ 9:55 AM |
Personally, the last thing I would do is use starting fluid if I valued my engine. I don't even like using it to start a diesel in cold weather. It can be very hard on pistons. Shiny side up! Cecil/WV
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