| Rustedjunk | -- 11-28-2017 @ 8:24 AM |
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I wanted to know if anyone knew the correct tightening ft/lbs for the rear axle nuts on a 1940 Ford Pickup. I think the fronts you are supposed to do by hand, turn the wheel a couple of revolutions and then back off. I just not sure on the rears. I just want to make sure before I put it back on the ground.
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| supereal | -- 11-28-2017 @ 8:57 AM |
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Using a "breaker bar" I tighten the axle nuts as tight as I can, even standing on the wrench. Be sure the taper of the axle is lean and dry before you start, and retighten after driving 25-50 miles. A tip to help get the cotter pin in place after tightening is to first mark the end of the axle with a file to show where the hole for the pin is located. Then, if the serration in the nut doesn't line up, turn the nut back just enough to be able to insert and lock the cotter pin.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 11-28-2017 @ 9:12 AM |
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Good tip Super. I mark all castellated bolts with a white, fine, paint pen indicating hole direction. Sure helps as you suggest.
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| Rustedjunk | -- 11-28-2017 @ 10:01 AM |
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I'm so used to using a torque wrench. I just don't want to over tighten them.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 11-28-2017 @ 10:41 AM |
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Search a little, the torque specs are out there. Supereal will probably get you close but I like to work with numbers. Charlie Stephens
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| fordv8j | -- 11-28-2017 @ 3:30 PM |
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Dick Flynn, said torque the nut to 150#, then tighten till you can get the cotter pin in
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| supereal | -- 11-30-2017 @ 12:50 PM |
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Over the span of many years, I haven't seen anyone twist off the threaded end of an axle. But I have seen broken axles when the hubs came loose on the taper. That is why I chinch them down without a torque wrench. I was taught that over 60 years ago by the old timers in the Ford garage. That is likely why you usually don't find torque specs in repair manuals. Be sure the taper is clean and dry without grease or oil on it, and the surface is free of gouges or other signs of wear. Installing a set of brake drum retainers is a good idea, anyway. C&G has them as 91A-2215, about $40. They will keep your rear wheels on the car if for any reason the axle does break. Old Ford axles are tough, but they, and do, break from age.
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| Drbrown | -- 12-01-2017 @ 8:50 AM |
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I like Supereal's suggestion re filing a marker grove on the shaft end. Going to use that idea to mark "relationships" between tire rims, rotors/hubs and lug nuts to maintain wheel balance. Torque comment: On our FWD family cars, the front half-axle shaft bolts (36 and 25mm pending car) are spec'd to be tightened to 175 fp. Our VW's spec's add another 180 degree turn after that ! After torquing, I use a 18 inch power arm plus an 18 inch pipe extension. With my 200+ lbs on the end I can never get more than an additional +-45 to 90 degree turn.
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| Lou46 | -- 12-01-2017 @ 4:58 PM |
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The specifications call for 200 -220 foot pounds of torque, then tighten to the next castellation (for cotter pin), not to exceed total of 275 foot pounds of torque. As Supereal stated, axle taper needs to be clean and dry (no grease or oil).
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| JM | -- 12-05-2017 @ 6:03 PM |
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I agree with Lou46 on 200-220 ft pds. After driving some, retorque once or twice. If the axle and nut threads are in good condition, and the nut is of the proper material and heat treat, as originally made by Ford, you will not have any problem torquing to this spec. Be carefull when using some of the nuts being supplied by parts dealers today. They will strip threads very easily. John
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