| Bill E Bob | -- 11-01-2017 @ 2:08 PM |
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1947 59AB sat for several years. Fresh oil change, oil added to each cylinder. Removed spark plugs rotated engine with starter. No oil pressure registering on gauge, however, oil in the bottom of a previously dry oil filter canister. Is that a safe indication of oil circulation in the system?
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| supereal | -- 11-01-2017 @ 2:32 PM |
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Starting an engine that has sat idle for years is always a cr*pshoot. It is usually better to pull and disassemble the engine, as many were set aside when something went wrong. Depending on how and where it was stored it may have allowed rust to line the cylinders, valve springs to get a "set" from being compressed for a long period, or other problems. It is a rare when such engines run long if they actually start. Then, serious damage can occur in the first few minutes.
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| Bill E Bob | -- 11-03-2017 @ 7:15 AM |
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Mmmm-Kay, with the previous in mind, I obviously need to restate the current condition of my 59AB. Storage: Stored essentially inside for approx 6 years. I know the seller and if it was running well when parked, it was. Condition: Removed oil pan, cleaned and painted. While removed, noted cross hatching on cylinder walls with crankshaft, bearings etc. in good condition. Removed, cleaned and inspected oil pump, pick up tube and screen. Reinstalled with new gaskets, front seal, and fresh oil. New water pumps included. So, I restate my question: After turning engine over (with plugs removed), does oil in a previously DRY oil filter canister indicate sufficient oil circulation for an attempted start? Additionally, I expect to be removing the engine to at least replace the rear main seal and possibly clutch assembly, however would like to see what I'm dealing with prior to assuming expense of an engine rebuild. Thank You William(attempting a cr*pshoot)Brown
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| Yokomo99 | -- 11-03-2017 @ 7:36 AM |
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Hi Bill The appearance of oil in a previously empty filter would seem to indicate that the pump is pumping. Since the electrical gauge is so slow to react I would temporarily remove the oil pressure sender and install a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge to check for pressure while cranking. Just for piece of mind. I have started quite a few engines that have been sitting for a long time with generally good results. Judging from the way this engine was put down for storage I wouldn't worry about the start. Matt Be sure to check out my YouTube pages at: https://www.youtube.com/user/MatthewBergin1 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJCdOfmXtM8xO9nXeQ-iSQQ
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| supereal | -- 11-03-2017 @ 1:47 PM |
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In your first post you didn't mention the work to date. That considered, I'd go ahead and start the engine. With the pre lube and evidence that the filter canister contain some oil, it looks like you are ready.
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| Bill E Bob | -- 11-04-2017 @ 4:57 AM |
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Gentlemen, THANKS LARGE! Apologies for not indicating current engine condition at the outset. William(information deficient)Brown
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| Drbrown | -- 11-04-2017 @ 8:30 PM |
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You mention replacing the "rear main seal". I might be wrong but doesn't the 59 AB have just a "slinger" (?)
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| len47merc | -- 11-05-2017 @ 4:09 AM |
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59ABs have rear main rope seals, 2 piece, top and bottom. As well, ya gotta love the debate and opinions about whether to place the parting lines perfectly horizontal at 3 & 9 o'clock on the seam between the block & pan versus offset at 4 & 6. Ooooppps - am I starting something here...(?) Bill E Bob, before you go into changing the rear main seal let it run for a while and then assess how much it is actually leaking. Will the seal swell up to original dimensions and return to original sealing capacity - ? - no. But will a new seal, which will leak also, make an adequate enough difference in oil loss versus what you have now to warrant pulling the engine to only replace the seal? Hmmm... Let us know what your actual oil loss is after you've given it a few hundred miles of run time. After only sitting for six years it may be losing no more now than it was when it was running 6 years ago, and may be losing little more than it will with a new seal. And if you do ultimately decide to pull the engine and break the mains free to pull the crank free to change the seal, you'd just as well go further while you've got it out, perhaps all the way full monty. And again if you feel the need to go that route down the road, get a few rattle cans from Bill Hirsch of Ford blue while you're at it. And read the 41-48 Ford book, which I know you have, closely, on how the engine blocks and parts were manufactured and painted originally. You'll be glad you did. Oh, we were talking about 59AB rear main rope seals weren't we... Steve
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| Bill E Bob | -- 12-15-2017 @ 4:39 PM |
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Update. Yes, it was safe to start and did with resultant oil pressure just south of 80#, charging circuit operational, temperature in the middle of the gauge, no knocks, clicks, taps or leaks (yet). Shakedown run in the near future. Did however, find out where some of the front seat stuffing went as it ended up all over the driveway on start up!
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| bigvince | -- 12-26-2017 @ 9:43 AM |
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Remove the fuel pump and prime the engine much like you would with a fresh engine. Prime for about 1-2 minutes with fresh oil. At least you'll have oil in the passages.
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