| MICHV8 | -- 10-16-2017 @ 4:17 PM |
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Has anyone ever installed one without removing the body? I have a new in the box that came with the car and it simply doesn't fit. The body of the tank hits the driver side frame before the passenger side can be lifted over the frame. It's not a matter the inner fender, simply too wide to slip on top of the frame. Thanks for any insight. I am aware of Yogis and actually have one on another 39, but the Drake came with the car...
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-16-2017 @ 5:12 PM |
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Oh yeah, nice tank but has a few issues. There is a bump out on the left side bottom that needs to be flattened about 1/4 inch or so with a body hammer. This will gain enough room to slide it to the left. The flange on the right side needs to be trimmed 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch to allow the tank to clear the frame. With the body off it would drop in as is but if you are replacing the tank with the body on it needs to be trimmed. Slide the tank over the frame on the drivers side, then push the passenger side up in place. Use a new rubber sleeve on the filler pipe as the old one will be hard as cement. Check the fuel line fitting to be sure some idiot didn't cross thread it before you try to install the tank. Big item, your factory fuel sender is too large for the tank opening and you will be forced to buy one of theirs. Before you install the tank take a die grinder and enlarge the tank opening to fit a stock sending unit. Do this with the tank upside down, so that the filings don't end up in the tank. Vacuum after and maybe even slosh it out so that the tank is clean. These tanks are a good deal for the money, I just wish they had paid more attention to the details. I had my old tank sealed at one time but ethanol was a solvent for the sealer. It was impossible to completely remove the old stuff, and who knows what the next gas additive will be. New tanks are the way to go. This message was edited by pauls39coupe on 10-16-17 @ 5:20 PM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-16-2017 @ 5:25 PM |
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Just noticed you are a Michigander. We are RG 126 from the Jackson Lansing area, but we cover most of the state outside of the Detroit metro area. Check out our website on links. Glad to help out any members.
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| MICHV8 | -- 10-17-2017 @ 4:57 AM |
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Thanks for the reply. Nice to know that I'm not a complete idiot (close though!). Yeah, its the driver side of the tank that hits the frame before I can slide it over to lift the passenger side up. I did have to grind the seam on the passenger side about 1/16 just to get the tank past the lower lip of the passenger side frame. I'll look for the bump you mentioned....I only recall that the driver side is angled downward, but not enough for the necessary clearance. I actually emailed the club years ago to join, but never heard back...
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| MICHV8 | -- 10-17-2017 @ 1:47 PM |
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Had to modify the driver side gas tank panel inward at the tank flange and grind the passenger side tank flange about 1/8 and cut the inner fender 1/4...It's in, but ridiculous he doesn't warn you that it doesn't just slip in.
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| JohnJAS | -- 10-18-2017 @ 8:30 AM |
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Hello MICHV8, was also thinking about replacing gas tank in my 39 Deluxe. Tank was gummed up along w/fuel line. Was able to clean out tank, and had thought bout coating tank (POR 15 type), but pauls39coupe experience tends to confirm why I haven't done it yet. So first things first, if it's difficult to install new tank, did you have a challenge removing old one? Speedway has a 'poly' (plastic) tank but notes small differences in shape to reduce 'trimming' issue. I know plastic tank not Original Equipment (OE) but cleaning that steel tank in the car thru the fuel sending opening working around those baffles and spraying total of 6-7 gal of carb cleaner and similar into corners w/long handled weed killer type of sprayer (pneumatic pump), capturing thru drain plug, and disposing of used cleaner environmentally correct, was a Gosh awful job and now left w/rust present above the gummed area (and in some areas under the gum), a plastic tank would at least reduce rust issue. Stainless tank is possible solution to reduce (most) of rust, but then again not OE. I've owned this car for 48 yrs, but wasn't able to keep it running for about 5yrs and this is result. And as you have said 'any Insight would be helpful', Thanks.
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| JohnJAS | -- 10-19-2017 @ 12:33 PM |
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39 Ford Deluxe 91A-70B All Original Hello. Would have hoped to have heard from either MICHV8 or another member regarding removal of old gas tank from this vehicle, but unfortunately have heard no response. Have been a member of EFV-8 on and off over the years. Not a lot of time avail to spend on website. Not sure I executed the 'reply' function correctly yesterday (10/18/17) so I just copy/pasted org reply. Hello MICHV8, was also thinking about replacing gas tank in my 39 Deluxe. Tank was gummed up along w/fuel line. Was able to clean out tank, and had thought bout coating tank (POR 15 type), but pauls39coupe experience tends to confirm why I haven't done it yet. So first things first, if it's difficult to install new tank, did you have a challenge removing old one? Speedway has a 'poly' (plastic) tank but notes small differences in shape to reduce 'trimming' issue. I know plastic tank not Original Equipment (OE) but cleaning that steel tank in the car thru the fuel sending opening working around those baffles and spraying total of 6-7 gal of carb cleaner and similar into corners w/long handled weed killer type of sprayer (pneumatic pump), capturing thru drain plug, and disposing of used cleaner environmentally correct, was a Gosh awful job and now left w/rust present above the gummed area (and in some areas under the gum), a plastic tank would at least reduce rust issue. Stainless tank is possible solution to reduce (most) of rust, but then again not OE. I've owned this car for 48 yrs, but wasn't able to keep it running for about 5yrs and this is result. And as you have said 'any Insight would be helpful', Thanks.
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| supereal | -- 10-19-2017 @ 1:12 PM |
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I have yet to see a replacement tank that just fell into place without some modification. When I replaced the tank in my '47, I found that it was missing a dent to clear part of the chassis cross member. With a bit of persuasion with a hammer, clearance was made. Obviously the original tank was placed before the body drop. You don't have to remove the body to install a tank. The job may introduce you to some language in the process.
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| JohnJAS | -- 10-19-2017 @ 1:41 PM |
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39 Ford Deluxe 91A-70B All Original Thanks, supereal, and any other member with any insight to removing old tank Is it just as 'exciting' (new language included) to remove old tank as installing new tank? Any tips, insight or tools that might help?
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| 42merc | -- 10-19-2017 @ 2:20 PM |
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I recently replaced a damaged gas tank in my '40 coupe. Hit some road trash & hurt the original tank. Removal was simply remove the filler pipe & hose, gas line, disconnect the gas gauge, then the three 3/8" bolts, slide the tank to the filler side, lower the passenger side, pull the filler pipe from over the frame & lower to the ground. Really simple. Replaced it with a "Tanks" 16 gallon steel tank (I wanted the extra 2 gallons). I had to clearance the body sheet metal around the filler a bit to allow the filler pipe to protrude. After that the fit was good. With the TANKS tank, the gas line hook-up is in a different location & I fabricated an adapter to use the stock fuel gauge. EDIT: for tank removal the rear tailpipe hanger may need to be un-fastened. This message was edited by 42merc on 10-19-17 @ 3:36 PM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-19-2017 @ 5:03 PM |
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The poly tanks I have seen are oversize and require trimming to install unless you remove the body. The stock tanks can be dropped in about 5 minutes. Remove the filler, unbolt, move the tank to the left to clear the frame on the right side, then lower it out. Drakes tanks are good. They just need a little tweeting if you are going to install them with the body in place.
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| MICHV8 | -- 10-20-2017 @ 5:27 AM |
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JohnJAS: Sorry for the late reply, but I don't login that often. My install notes are just above your initial question...not much more I can add.
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| JohnJAS | -- 10-20-2017 @ 3:55 PM |
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39 Ford Deluxe 91A-70B All Original Much much Thanks to 42merc, pauls39coupe, and MICHV8 for the replies. Unfortunately, have not been able to get back, my own self, to EFV-8 'til now. I remember when I looked at tank attachment, appears to have springs integrated on bolt shafts. Access to bolts may not be best, but appear to be doable and replacement of 'has to be as brittle as glass' tank filler neck part of all of it. So 'ya mean there's no magical or mystical new language that the grandkids wouldn't be not allowed to hear to get the old tank out? Works for me! 42merc, I'm going to check TANKS version. Have looked at Drakes, Speedway (turns out to look and have same Item # as YOGI's). Thanks again to all.
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| TomO | -- 10-21-2017 @ 8:22 AM |
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JohnJas. I would search for a radiator shop or stripper service that would clean your tank and coat the inside. Then I would order the Hirsch tank sealer, remove the tank from the car and take it to be cleaned and coated with the Hirsch sealer. This will be much less work than replacing the tank with a poor fitting replacement. And your gas gauge will work better with the original sending unit. When removing the tank, you will have to drain it. If you have not drained it in the past 15 months, you will probably not be able to remove the drain plug. What I did on my car, is run it until it is low on gas, 5 gallons or less. Get a short (about 12") piece of 1/4" copper tubing, compression fitting and a piece of 5/16" fuel hose, to use for directing the gas into a suitable container. Jack up the left side of the car, so the gas runs away from the fuel pickup, and remove the fuel line and insert your copper line. Lower the car and jack up the right side to drain the remaining gas. If your container gets full before draining all of the gas, use vise grips to clamp the rubber line closed while you change containers. Good luck. Tom
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| JohnJAS | -- 10-21-2017 @ 10:54 AM |
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39 Ford Deluxe 91A-70B All Original Thanks for reply TomO, Actually tank is bone dry. Cleaned tank as described above appox 2 yrs ago. I had NEVER removed tank drain plug (46 yrs then) until this happened. Got her running again (had to remove dist, clean points and all ign connections), could tell accel pump probly in pieces, could not 'goose' throttle w/o dying, but always dependable in starting. Process to loosen drain plug is' as old as the hills'. Simply tightened approx 1/8+ turn very carefully watching to make sure head and thread both turning together and the slowly unscr*w*ng until any resistance and then tightening again and using thread lube spray . The initial 'tightening first' I have found in other applications over the years actually my own preferred starting method. However, you have to access the general condition of bolt/nut and condition of material bolt is threaded into. Mind you now, my car is in dry, indoor (heated some times in winter) garage. No rust on outside of tank or bolt. Actually have decided to 'go thru' her again, have ordered large number of parts from new spark plug wires, dist parts etc and finally decided to order a new'Ford' inscripted coil, but also ordered conversion kit for conventional coil. Ordered brakes and wheel cyls (AGAIN) and finally ordered stainless steel sleeve master cyl. If any area that has given me 'Fits', over the years it's those orig brakes and THAT org master cyl design. Now see whole new brake, hub, splindle setups avail other than these org 'juice' only type and access to Lincoln brake drums. By the way I'm still running Montgomery Ward Riverside tires. Would need to 'upgrade' (Duh), if I start taking her out again. But dealing now w/fuel tank 'cause looking to get her going again after 2 yrs sitting dry. I know she'll start, Just don't want a lot rust and junk getting into carb. Have carb off and new rebuild kit. I will take what you say into consideration regarding keeping org tank vs the newer tanks. You opinion is valued. Thanks again TomO. This message was edited by JohnJAS on 10-21-17 @ 10:57 AM
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