| silverchief | -- 09-30-2017 @ 11:14 AM |
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Long term oil leak has me thinking about replacing the "crankshaft packing" on my stock 46. I have a clean well lit work place with all my tools. Some questions: Taking your time is this something that can be accomplished on jack stands? I have original an garage manual with detailed instructions for removing those parts necessary for dropping the pan, including starter, drag link, and radius rod. Will this reveal the "packing" I want to replace? Are replacement seals still rope, or made of some new modern material. Lastly, if done correctly is this procedure likely to correct the problem, or has it been shown to be often a waste of time. Thanks for your input.
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| supereal | -- 09-30-2017 @ 1:18 PM |
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More often than not, replacing the rope seals are not worth the time and trouble, as they all tend to seep somewhat. Using synthetic oil will often increase the leakage. Last year we did a engime shipped from California. Our instruction sheet mentions this but, sure enough, that was the cause. Synthetic oil is wonderful, and usually recommended for modern engines, but the things that make it better and old car technology are at odds.
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| silverchief | -- 10-02-2017 @ 4:22 PM |
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Thanks Bob. Mac, C&G and other vendors show show several different rear main seals in their catalogs, but no mention of the "packing" or seal for the front of the crankshaft. I will have to do some more research. I have never used synthetic oil in my coupe. If I could find the correct seal I might consider it just on the chance it would solve the problem.
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| Bill E Bob | -- 10-03-2017 @ 4:59 AM |
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There is a modern seal for the front of the crankshaft which consists of a rubber ring which fits into the rope seal grooves in the timing cover and the oil pan. Inside this ring is a standard modern oil seal. There is also a speedi-sleeve that fits onto the crankshaft pulley to cover any wear grooves from the old seal. There is a pretty good video on youtube explaining how to install the seal into an 8BA engine. The 59AB is a bit different in that there is no "grooved" sleeve to remove before installing the speedi-sleeve onto the crank pulley. William (just did this one) Brown
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| TomO | -- 10-03-2017 @ 6:55 AM |
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Bill, in order to do the job of replacing the rear seal properly, it is best to remove the engine from the car and then remove the pan. When you have the pan off, you can determine if you have the rope seal or the slinger seal. If you have the slinger seal, you will need the pot metal pieces to install the rope seal and will have to remove the crankshaft in order to remove the slinger from it and install the pot metal pieces. Then you can install the better graphite rear main seal. If you have the rope rear main seal, it can be replaced with the engine in the car, but I would not recommend anyone over the age of 50 try this. You need good vision and a lot of patience in order to do this. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 10-03-2017 @ 7:38 AM |
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Having been there, done that, wasting hours of time in the attempt, will add to TomO's reply and simply state regardless of age do no attempt to do this with the engine in the car. You'll save time, headaches, frustration, eyes, busted knuckles, aching back, stressed knees, scratches/dents to perhaps pristine engine/pan paint, etc., if you'll take the time to pull the engine to perform this task. And btw - a 'Sneaky Pete' seal tool or equivalent typically used is absolutely no match to remove a long in the tooth rear seal with the engine still in the car. Glad to sell mine to anyone who needs it. Steve
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