| tonys1950 | -- 09-27-2017 @ 7:46 PM |
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my 1950 ford has the std mech fuel pump, can i place a electric one in the same line say at the back near the tank ? my thinking is vapor lock, live in hot climate and ez of starting after sitting long periods of time. if that can be done, should it be switched where i can turn it off and on ? thanks
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| trjford8 | -- 09-27-2017 @ 8:27 PM |
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You can put an electric pump back near the tank. Make sure it is one that your stock pump can pull gas through when the electric is not in use. Put a toggle switch under the dash and wire it to the pump so you can easily turn it on when needed..
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| len47merc | -- 09-28-2017 @ 4:21 AM |
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Recommend you find the root cause of your 'vapor lock', resolve that first and you'll then find no need for an electric fuel pump, which, imho, is a band-aid at best. Reams of information on this Forum on the subject are available when searching for 'vapor lock', 'hot start', etc., that will help you to solve your problem in very likely much less time than it will take to install the band-aid efp. Plenty of examples of EFV8 members that live in hot climates - PLENTY - that run stock configurations, without electric fuel pumps, and never experience the problem. Know then it can be effectively resolved - and quickly I might add - with effective and logical problem solving techniques and processes. Perform a few searches. Coil, fuel pressure, fuel line air leaks - all quickly come to mind and there's lots here on all of these that will help you. Steve
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| Big Red 51 | -- 09-28-2017 @ 7:14 AM |
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Tony "Vapor Lock" effect in HOT weather could be several things in the fuel system. I have found over the years with a good fuel system the "Vapor Lock effect" in hot weather is usually caused by a bad ignition coil. Carry a spare coil and you are set.
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| TomO | -- 09-28-2017 @ 7:22 AM |
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I agree with Steve and want to add that an electric fuel pump can cause the very problem that you are trying to fix. Most electric fuel pumps and accessory filters are installed by cutting the fuel line and adding in the filter with rubber hoses. The Ford fuel pump sits at the top of the engine, so it is very sensitive to any vacuum leak in the supply side of the fuel pump. The rubber hoses with the hose clamps tend to leak a small amount of air when the pump is trying to suck fuel from the tank. This will have an effect when you need the pump to be most efficient, starting after sitting and on hot days. If you do install an electric fuel pump, use a momentary contact switch to activate it. This will only keep the pump active while you are pressing on the switch. If you want to use the pump continuous wire it through an oil pressure switch, so it will shut off in an accident. Search the internet for ways to wire the pump safely. Tom
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| wmsteed | -- 09-28-2017 @ 9:08 AM |
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Having been there done that, I found many years ago that the addition of a properly installed electric fuel pump was as important as having a spare tire and tools to change same. In 1951 I was driving my '41 Ford tudor in the middle of the night in no-where Idaho. No cell phone, no Triple A, and no traffic on the road. My fuel pump had quit, so what to do. I resorted to all of the usual roadside repairs. I cut the tongue out of one of my shoes to secure a piece of leather to put on top of the fuel pump push rod. The car started and ran for for a couple of miles, the repair was close but no cookie. I next cut a piece of leather from my thick belt, placing same into the fuel pump push rod cup and reinstalled the pump. Engine started, ran for a few miles, then quit. Both quick fixes confirmed that the pump was toast. Now what, not one vehicle came along during all of the time I fiddled with the Ford. I finally got an idea, I got a gallon can out of the trunk, took the vacuum lines off of the wipers, siphoned some gas from the tank, (everyone use to carry an Oklahoma credit card) I attached the can to the top of the car with friction tape, rigged the vacuum hose to the float bowel, started a siphon on the hose, which provided a gravity fuel feed from the can to the carb. I slowly drove the car to town, stopping from time to time to refill the gallon can as need. In 1976 I used the same trick on a F100 pickup that lost a fuel pump while we were hunting in the mountains of Idaho. In my book an electric fuel pump is a must have item to have wired into a vehicle, I have one on all of my vintage vehicles, if nothing else it makes for easier starting after the vehicle has sat for weeks of non use.. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| len47merc | -- 09-28-2017 @ 3:07 PM |
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Bill - I respect and appreciate your position as well as the full content of your reply above. I will offer a couple of different perspectives. If I am traveling longer distances, regardless if through no-man's land or not, I always have a back-up fuel pump and simple tools with me to make the emergency roadside change if needed. As Kens 36 put it, the back-up is only there to ensure you'll never need it, and so far he's been right on the money. So, moral of the story - no need for an electric fuel pump imho. Second alternative perspective, which goes to the last point you made regarding ease of starting after sitting for long periods of time. After following all the excellent advice given on this Forum to me back in 2013-early 2014, my '47 has sat for in excess of 14 weeks without starting (max experienced so far) and the (non-original but ok with me as it doesn't kick me out of Rouge class) fuel filter is still full, the glass bowl on the fuel pump is still full, the well-reworked carb bowl is still full, and, with a quick 'full-pull' of the choke (and I mean QUICK - push it back in quickly) and a push of the starter button it will fire up virtually instantly - so far EVERY time. Sooo...my point/alternative perspective is that a properly set-up and optimally operating fuel delivery system is more than capable of addressing any perceived or real vapor lock issues, and will start an optimally set-up EFV8 on the first couple of turns of the engine without an electric fuel pump. One, IMHO, simply needs to invest the time to 'get-it-right'. TomO, 38fordv8 (Alan), kubes40, trjford8, Old Henry, ken ct., supereal, carcrazy, and a long, long list & host of EFV8 others quite frankly got this '47 to this point - I just provided the hands to follow and execute upon their advice. Bottom line - am an absolute stickler for originality and believe and trust in the reliability of a properly set-up and optimized EFV8 engine, electrical and fuel delivery systems. So far have 12K+ miles (including 2 tours in excess of 1,000 miles each, 1 in 95+ degree temps) to support the conviction and multiple long periods (2-3 months) of no activity only to find the engine fires up on the first touch of the button. And (not looking for any wood to knock on here as I say this) have never once experienced a vapor lock and never worry about it, including stop-'n-go July 4th parades here in central NC. I can appreciate the peace of mind an electric fuel pump may give. My peace of mind and confidence in spontaneously jumping in the '47 for a several hundred mile to 1K+ trip regardless of ambient temps without concern comes from knowing the legwork was done and the foundation built to 'get-it-right' the first time (actually for me it was the second or third time because in my stubbornness and thick-headedness I thought I knew everything originally and (then) refused to listen to our resident EFV8 experts until I ultimately had to accept both my lack of knowledge and all their depth of the same and experience!). Fwiw... Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 9-28-17 @ 5:13 PM
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| tonys1950 | -- 09-28-2017 @ 4:56 PM |
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WOW !!!! thanks guys, great info, i will try the simple stuff first and can alway go to electric set up.
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| fordv8j | -- 09-29-2017 @ 5:45 PM |
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I've had an electric fuel pump on my 38 coupe, it has kept me from stalling numerous times, and easier to start when car sits for a while
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| supereal | -- 10-03-2017 @ 2:32 PM |
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We use the AirTex electric pump sold by C&G. It is a "'flow thru" type available in both 6 and 12 volt models. It comes complete with hoses and clamps, and all hardware for mounting. We use the worm screw clamps, rather than the spring type. Mount as close to the tank as possible, as they push better than pull fuel. The stock number is 11A-9350. E6 for 6 volts, E-12 for 12 volts. 1-800-266-0470.
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| len47merc | -- 10-24-2017 @ 2:05 PM |
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Beating a dead horse here I know - '47 has been sitting in storage in a neighbor's garage since August 15th, the day when my son began his '4-day' project on his Honda which occupied the 2-car attached garage bay that the Merc normally resides in. His project looks to complete tomorrow btw. Local club dinner tonight, so out to pick up the Merc, dust it off, clean the windows, drive to dinner and kick the wife's car out of the 2nd bay for a day or two until the Honda moves out. Recall this is a completely stock/original set-up. Fuel filter was found full, glass bowl full to the top, full choke at 65 degree ambient temp - car started on the 3rd-4th turn of the engine, about the time it takes to top-off the bowl in the carb from whatever may have evap'd over the 9 weeks or so. Quick push in of the choke and we're off. Fwiw. Spend whatever time you may need to ensure the fuel delivery system is buttoned-up air tight tank-to-carb and is operating at peak efficiency before going the efp route IMHO. And again, I know - I know, still beating this dead horse to death over and over again. Just found the quick crank after sitting that long current data and possibly interesting enough to share. Cheers - Steve
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