| artron9 | -- 09-25-2017 @ 6:38 PM |
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What would you think if I told you that my recent 1952 v8 purchase had one had one EAB head and one 8BA head? Maybe they were both milled to the correct specs? What if they were not? What the worst that could happen?
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| sarahcecelia | -- 09-26-2017 @ 7:25 AM |
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The worst thing that will happen is that you'll worry about it.
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| artron9 | -- 09-26-2017 @ 10:18 AM |
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Sarahcecelia, thanks for your words of wisdom because thats exactly whats going on here! Two different heads = two different millings? Unless of course, the previous owner had them properly milled to the same specs! If this is not the case, and two different heads were installed, I would expect some problems? What do you think?
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| sarahcecelia | -- 09-26-2017 @ 12:42 PM |
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I doubt you'll have any problems. How does the motor run? Check the compression; if they are milled differently enough to matter, the compression will be different one one side, if they are fairly equal I don't foresee a problem. Regards, Steve Lee
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| artron9 | -- 09-26-2017 @ 4:47 PM |
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Thats a confidence builder Steve!n I needed that! Not running great right now. Its in the shop for poss. tank redo. Ill know more soon!
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| artron9 | -- 09-26-2017 @ 4:53 PM |
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Cold compression: 1-95,2=90,3=90,4=90 5=90,6=90,7=80,8=100 I know i should have done this with a warm engine. The factory new engine compression should be 125! Is it a death sentance?
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| sarahcecelia | -- 09-26-2017 @ 6:07 PM |
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One cylinder at 80? I'd re-do it with a warmed up motor, and be sure to crank it so you get just 4 compressions on each cylinder. You'll hear them as it cranks and they will show on the gauge.If you crank it and get say 4 on some, 3 on some, and 6 on some they will be different. The one that gets less will show Probably show less compression, and the one that gets the most may show the most compression. Making an ACCURATE compression test is a learned art. I learned it at a VW dealership that I worked at as a mechanic when I was in my early 20's. All cylinders should be only about 5- 7 lbs. different in a good motor. Rings could be stuck from sitting, guides could be worn causing fauty valve operation, valves(exhaust) could be burned, or it could be "carboned up." if it is carboned up, take it out and run it 70-75 miles an hour for about a 10 mile trip to blow it out. Did this motor sit for any long period?Say a year plus?If it did, just driving it should help. Was oil with zinc used in it? If not the cam will be worn, causing the valve(s) not to open fully-result= low compression on some cylinder(s)I use valvoline racing oil 20/50 exclusively because it has zinc in it! Flat tappet cams need zinc to prevent lobe wear!!!!( and the epa took it out of the oil) I have (3) flathead cars and I do all my own work and have won many, many shows. My cars start easy(6V), idle nicely, never overheat, and run very well through the gears, and at cruise. I started to tune my first flathead at 18 yrs. old on a 1950 Deluxe sedan, and learned as I went. I always got the job done.I'm 80+ now and still ticking and still do it all!!I used to fix every daily driver I had up through the 70's 'til they went to injection, front wheel drive and all that new stuff. Regards, Steve Lee
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| artron9 | -- 09-26-2017 @ 6:34 PM |
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Wish you were my neighbor,Steve. Youve got only a couple of years on me but your miles ahead on experience. I highly respect you and the years you put in the pit! I will do as you you suggest. This time with a warm engine. I like your oil suggestion if I can find it. Thank you for your knowledge!
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