| LarryK | -- 08-24-2017 @ 4:54 PM |
|
My car is a 1939 Deluxe with the original distributor. I am replacing the points, and would like to set the spacing at 0.016”, the upper end of the specified 0.014-0.016 range. About the best I can do is a tight 0.015. I would think the adjustment would allow more than 0.016 initially so that the specified spacing could be restored after a period of use. The new points are NAPA part number CS-47. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this situation and if there are recommended ways to obtain the 0.016 spacing. Thanks all. Larry
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 08-24-2017 @ 5:45 PM |
|
Have no idea where napa points are made . I have point sets made in USA and super quality for sale if you need them. ken ct email,pm or cell 1-203-260-9780. ken ct. Have sold many sets to fordbarners.
|
|
| cliftford | -- 08-24-2017 @ 7:38 PM |
|
Take a small round file, such as a chain saw file and elongate the holes in the stationary point very slightly. It just might give you the extra 1 or 2 thousandths you need. This message was edited by cliftford on 8-25-17 @ 7:48 AM
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-25-2017 @ 7:17 AM |
|
Your car may run OK with just setting the points with feeler gauges, but it will start and run better if you have the dwell and timing set on a distributor machine. Tom
|
|
| LarryK | -- 08-25-2017 @ 8:06 AM |
|
Thanks Ken, Clift, and TomO. For now I am going to try Clift's remedy. In the meantime I am going to order points from Ken. This winter I will have the distributor set up on a machine. Larry
|
|
| sarahcecelia | -- 08-25-2017 @ 8:30 AM |
|
Take it from a Pro. A thousandth or so one way or the other won't change your timing or the dwell enough to matter. That's why they give you a tolerance on point gap and dwell. Regards, Steve Lee
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 08-25-2017 @ 2:11 PM |
|
If you can set them @ .016 they will close up to .015 to .0155 in the first 30 to 40 miles of driving due to initial wear brake in of the rubbing block on the points. put grease on the 8 lobed cam and a dab on the posts where the cotter pin goes. ken ct.
|
|
| LarryK | -- 08-26-2017 @ 12:52 PM |
|
Thanks all. Larry
|
|
| sarahcecelia | -- 08-26-2017 @ 6:12 PM |
|
Tom's remark about setting it up on a machine is Very True!!That's what the Ford dealers did back in the day. Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 8-26-17 @ 6:15 PM
|
|
| supereal | -- 08-29-2017 @ 2:34 PM |
|
Many Ford dealers used the Heyer machine. The dealer I worked for had a Sun. Many of these were dumped years ago when distributors used other systems such as Allen effect. I bought my first Sun at a swap meet for $25, and a later model for $75 years ago. At our shop we use them often. The point gap is set on the machine by blocking one set and adjusting the other with the dwell meter. Then the blocked point set is cleared, and adjusted it to obtain the correct total dwell on the meter. In neither case is the point gap measured. As the others have said, a few thousandths will make little difference. Another advantage is using the strobe to determine if there is any point bounce. We are finding some new point sets to be poor quality when tested. When you see machine setting you will have an idea of why
|
|
| cliftford | -- 08-29-2017 @ 4:34 PM |
|
All of the above is good advice , but no one mentioned checking the breaker spring tension, which should be 20-22oz. as I recall.
|
|
| Drbrown | -- 08-29-2017 @ 7:11 PM |
|
For my '51 Merc flatty during the late '50's I used a portable dwell meter to set my points and in that particular case it made a real difference.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=11124 |