| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 4:22 AM |
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I purchased wheel studs from Joblot before they closed which were suppose to be for 46-48 passenger car. Pressed them and the shoulder is to long the wheel will jot tighten to the drum, run out it threads. Does anyone know the right measurements . The ones I pushed out are distorted.. Thanks, Rick
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| ken ct. | -- 08-23-2017 @ 5:24 AM |
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Call Roy Nacowich a vendor on here ,he may have the correct ones. ken ct
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| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 6:10 AM |
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Thank you, will try him
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| TomO | -- 08-23-2017 @ 8:29 AM |
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Do you have the Green Book or a Chassis Parts Catalog? The different studs and the shoulder sizes are listed in there along with the drum and hub configuration. The studs are supposed to be swedged after pressing in. Tom
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| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 8:52 AM |
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Thanks TomO I think a friend has a book will check
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| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 12:10 PM |
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Thanks TomO I think a friend has a book will check
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| pauls39coupe | -- 08-23-2017 @ 12:54 PM |
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Mac's carries the correct studs. Original drums need to have the studs swedged , to hold the drum. These are about 1.56" long. Cast iron replacement drums use a 1.74" long stud which is pressed into the hub, the drum then "floats" on the hub.
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| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 2:15 PM |
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Thanks Paul, I am using new drums.
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| supereal | -- 08-23-2017 @ 2:16 PM |
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We always tack weld replacement studs to the drum. Just one small bead will do the job. The studs are supposed to be kept in place by the knurled portion of the stud, but old drums often have deteriorated stud holes that will allow the studs to turn with the nuts when the wheels are tightened. When that happens, removing the wheel from the drum becomes impossible without pulling the hub from the axle, creating real problems out on the road. I know the flat on the head of the stud is intended to prevent them turning, but unless you are able to pull the stud outward as it is loosened, it doesn't do much good.
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| flathead48 | -- 08-23-2017 @ 5:08 PM |
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Supereal, good advice, thank you
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