| Bob56 | -- 08-13-2017 @ 11:34 AM |
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Got all the lights working but the glove box clock. Now when I turn on the instrument panel light switch within seconds it feels like it is on fire. Is the switch going bad or is there another issue. If it is the switch were can I get one, I don't see them in any catalogs
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| 40cpe | -- 08-13-2017 @ 11:52 AM |
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Is there a fuse ahead of the switch that gets hot? If the switch gets hot because of too heavy load (short?) it should blow a reasonably sized fuse. If it is drawing a normal amount of current, I would think there is a loose connection in the switch causing the heat build-up. If you don't have an amp meter, splice a fuse holder in with the correct fuse.
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| Bob56 | -- 08-13-2017 @ 1:50 PM |
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I think the switch itself may be bad. If I wiggle the knob, lights go off and on
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| sarahcecelia | -- 08-13-2017 @ 2:04 PM |
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It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the wire to the clock light, or in the clock light bulb socket, assembly. Take it out, with it's wire, and test it with jumper wires on your battery; or use jumpers from the socket to ground, and from the wire end to power. If it lights, examine the wire for bad insulation and or bare spots, and repair as necessary. If there are none, replace the dimmer switch, or just connect the output wire on it to the input.You'll have a clock light, but always bright on the clock light and all panel lights. Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 08-13-2017 @ 2:16 PM |
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If you wiggle it on the lights go off and on, the dimmer swich is bad, or the wire connections on it are likely loose. If the connections are tight, and it still only works when you wiggle it Take the two wires off and connect them together. Problem solved! You just won't be able to dim the panel lights, which shouldn't be a problem. By the way, that switch is easy to remove- just take the two screws at the bottom of the dash below it out. DON'T FORGET!! Disconnect the hot (-) battery terminal FIRST to prevent any SHORTS!!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 08-13-2017 @ 2:19 PM |
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This post belongs on the 1940 threads.
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| Bob56 | -- 08-14-2017 @ 2:36 AM |
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Sorry guys, this is a 1936 club cab. It's the dimmer switch that I am working on. It has two bullet connections on the back and they seem snug.Where can I get a switch, haven't found any in the catalogs for a 36 This message was edited by Bob56 on 8-14-17 @ 2:38 AM
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| ken ct. | -- 08-14-2017 @ 3:24 AM |
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These are 1 of the hardest things to find and command top prices when found. It is NOT a dimmer switch. Just an on & off switch. Their are 2 diff. ones from 34 to 39 ithink. 1 the lites are ON in the out position and the other one has the lites on in the IN position. Finding a good one is almost impossible, GOOD LUCK. ken ct.
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| Bob56 | -- 08-14-2017 @ 8:14 AM |
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it's the one where the lights are on in the in position
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| len47merc | -- 08-14-2017 @ 8:20 AM |
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Bob56 - so that no one gets confused, please clarify whether you are referring to the 'on/off' switch on the floor that looks and functions like a classic dimmer switch, or to an actual dimmer switch itself that someone before you may have installed. Thanks - this has kind of gone around the horn a bit. I looked on ebay today just to see and thought I saw a couple of these listed, but I am not nearly as conversant and knowledgeable on this model and year as you and ken. Have a look - perhaps what you are looking for is there. Steve
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| Bob56 | -- 08-14-2017 @ 9:43 AM |
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Here is a photo from under the dash
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| Bob56 | -- 08-14-2017 @ 9:44 AM |
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Here is one on the dash. Upper left of the radio
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| ken ct. | -- 08-14-2017 @ 10:04 AM |
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Again Steve this is NOT a dimmer switch ,either on or off. He also has a short some where in the lighting system , switch should NOT get hot. Find the short first. 35-39 all used this switch,knobs and sw.pos. are diff. on is either in or out depending what yr. ken ct.
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| len47merc | -- 08-14-2017 @ 10:11 AM |
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Thanks ken - I had it. Just wanting to make sure everyone did - the word 'dimmer' was coming up so much I was beginning to wonder whether my (and possibly others') assumptions about the dash switch versus a 'dimmer' switch were correct. Thanks again - Steve
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| TomO | -- 08-15-2017 @ 6:42 AM |
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Bob, the switch may be OK. You can check it out by connecting your voltmeter on the 2 wires coming out of the switch and turning on the switch. With the switch off, you should read battery voltage (6.2 - 6.5 V) with the switch on, you should read 0.1 or less. If the switch is the culprit, you can try to repair it by carefully bending the tabs to release the phenolic piece. The switch will probably pop apart, so be careful and hold the phenolic piec in place so you can see how the parts fit. My guess is that there is a wiper that connects the 2 posts when the switch is pushed in and that you can clean the wiper and the 2 contacts to make the switch work. If the problem is not in the switch, which is what I think, remove the bulbs that are activate by the switch and using the resistance scale of your meter, connect one lead to a good ground on the back of the dash and the other to the switch lead. If you get a reading, you have a short circuit. Check all of the wires going to the lights and the clock. Tom
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