| Bob56 | -- 08-01-2017 @ 11:01 AM |
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I changed the fuel pump to the correct one for my 1936. Now it will not start. If I put gas directly in the carb it starts until it is burned off. Do I need to prime the fuel pump some how?
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| Bob56 | -- 08-01-2017 @ 1:23 PM |
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I haven't touched the rod. attached is a picture of the old pump This message was edited by Bob56 on 8-1-17 @ 1:26 PM
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| Bob56 | -- 08-01-2017 @ 1:25 PM |
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the new one. Somebody on another forum suggested the rod might have to be changed. since I have no clue looking for some guidance
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| len47merc | -- 08-01-2017 @ 1:33 PM |
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Bob56 - how long did you turn the engine over to try to start it? I've seen it take three rounds of 10 seconds cranks separated by 2 each 30 second starter cool-down periods before one would pump the fuel from the tank to the carb. Using full choke, or an assistant fully covering the carb with his hand (not advisable but...) will utilize the vacuum of the engine to pull it through more quickly as well. Let us know - if you've tried longer than this then next steps... Steve
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| 40cpe | -- 08-01-2017 @ 2:00 PM |
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A couple of starts by pouring gas in the carb should be enough to get the pump primed. Not knowing your mechanical experience, did you make sure the push rod is in the pump cup on installation? You can remove the fuel line from the flex hose, put your thumb over the end of the hose, crank the engine and feel for a vacuum. If you don't feel a suction at the hose it can't pull gasoline.
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| carcrazy | -- 08-01-2017 @ 3:21 PM |
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Are you sure there is gasoline in the fuel tank? If so, try spraying a little starting fluid into the air cleaner intake to get the car started. It may take up to three applications to get the pump primed and the engine to run on its own. If this fails to get the fuel system primed, then its time to check other things out. Remove the fuel pump and check to see how far the fuel pump pushrod moves up and down when the engine turns over. The travel amount needs to be enough to make the pump work.
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| ken ct. | -- 08-01-2017 @ 5:31 PM |
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Sorry to inform you but that is NOT a correct pump for 36. Other poster showed a correct early 36 pump. Later 36 pumps are slightly bigger but not glass bowl ones. I have 1 rebuilt 36 pump like in the other pic. ken ct. 1-203-260-9780
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-01-2017 @ 7:11 PM |
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I have been changing these pumps successfully for almost sixty years. Nevertheless, I had the same problem you are having last month when I changed the pump on my '40. The problem was that I missed the rod with the cup on the pump lever. It seems that the cups on the new pumps aren't attached to the lever as firmly as they once were. The solution for me was to take the pump off, rotate the engine until the rod was in the upmost position, place the cup over the rod and pull straight back a little to be sure it is seated. Then start one bolt and swing the pump down until the second bolt hole lines up. (I have always put the rod in the lowest position because it made lining up the bolts easier, but that didn't work this time.)
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| 40 Coupe | -- 08-02-2017 @ 4:31 AM |
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The fuel pump you have was used until approximately July of 36. So most of the 36 production used the style you have. I notice an unusual top bolt and gasket under it. To make sure the pump is developing proper vacuum to draw fuel in consider wrapping the upper cap to the die cast body with some electrical tape and if it then pumps fuel remove the tape. Sometimes if the top to body gasket is cork it can shrink and cause air to leak in preventing the pump from developing vacuum. Usually the cork gasket will swell up after fuel is in the pump and it will work well. Make sure the upper bolt is tight but do not over-tighten.
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| ken ct. | -- 08-02-2017 @ 6:46 AM |
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The correct early 36 pump is in pic posted at 1:25 pm. I have 1 left. ken ct.
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| TomO | -- 08-02-2017 @ 7:39 AM |
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All of the posts have good information in them, but here is some additional techniques to use. Some rebuilders leave the diaphragm screws loose. When you have the pump off of the car, operate the arm 3 or 4 times to make sure the diaphragm is seated. Then use a criss-cross method of tightening the screws, with the operating arm in the relaxed position. If you tightened the screws with any other method, loosen the screws until the lock washers are just touching the screw heads and use the previous procedure. The push rod should have at least 1/4 movement from the lowest to the highest point. Tom
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| Bob56 | -- 08-03-2017 @ 10:23 AM |
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Got it started. I think the new fuel line from the carb got seated to far into the pump. Thanks for all the help This message was edited by Bob56 on 8-3-17 @ 10:23 AM
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