| Robert/Texas | -- 07-28-2017 @ 7:27 AM |
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I have an unrestored ‘37 Ford Fordor touring sedan with about 62k miles on it. The car cruises nicely at 65 and idles smoothly. I believe that I have a problem with the carburetor (Stromberg 97). When I give it the pedal, either while driving or stopped in neutral, the engine tries to stall as if it’s starving for gas. It’s hard to look down into the carburetor as the hood is in the way but, as well as I can see in there with a mirror, it appears that only a small amount of fuel is released into the power valves (no true spray when I goose it) so I’m thinking that the accelerator pump is failing. I’m not driving this car much as it has no A/C and the daytime temperatures have been running in the high 90s to low 100s so I’m not in a big hurry to fix it. I’ve considered sending the carb out but have hesitated because that would cost me around $230 including freight both ways. I’ve been reading about replacing the acceleration pump but the instructions seem a bit daunting. I’m hoping that someone who has done this might enlighten me. I welcome all advice including suggestions to send it out. Thanks in advance, Robert
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| ken ct. | -- 07-28-2017 @ 8:37 AM |
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Send it to Charlie,NY. I have retired from rebuilding them after 25 yrs of it. I have the pumps and all the small parts for them if you want to DIYS. 1-203-260-9780 and the best kits for them made in USA. ken ct.
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| len47merc | -- 07-28-2017 @ 11:11 AM |
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I agree with Ken's recommendation, especially given Ken reports he's retired from the business. Charlie Schwendler H: (716) 662-9159 M: (716) 440-8952 5845 Cole Rd. Orchard Park, N.Y. 14127 Leave a message - he's very good about getting back to you quickly. It'll run like new when you get it back - he tests all his rebuilds on a running flathead in his garage. Reasonable as well. Steve
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-30-2017 @ 8:58 AM |
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I have experienced this when I worked as a mechanic in the 60's. The easiest, and first thing to check is the "acceleration discharge tube" in the throat of the carb.It has to shoot a small stream of gas right down the center of throat of the carb!It can't squirt it on the side of that throat at all, or the car will "Hesitate" on acceleration!! It is a little "press fit" into the body of the carb. and is easy to remove. When you put it back in, just put a small screw driver on the edge of it, and give it a very little "tap" to seat it. Clean it with a jet of air from a compressor blowing from the discharge end to the input end. Don't stick a needle, pin, or anything else in it to try to clean it, or you will enlarge the tiny hole in and ruin it!! You'll know because black smoke will exit your exhaust from too much fuel! While you have it out, "stroke" the accelerator once and see of fuel comes out of the hole that the discharge tube goes in; if it does the pump is good. Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 7-31-17 @ 5:27 AM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-30-2017 @ 9:31 AM |
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I have experienced this when I worked as a mechanic in the 60's. The easiest, and first thing to check is the "acceleration discharge tube" in the throat of the carb.It has to shoot a small stream of gas right down the center of throat of the carb!It can't squirt it on the side of that throat at all, or the car will "Hesitate" on acceleration!! It is a little "press fit" into the body of the carb. and is easy to remove. When you put it back in, just put a small screw driver on the edge of it, and give it a very little "tap" to seat it. Clean it with a jet of air from a compressor blowing from the discharge end to the input end. Don't stick a needle, pin, or anything else in it to try to clean it, or you will enlarge the tiny hole in and ruin it!! You'll know because black smoke will exit your exhaust from too much fuel! While you have it out, "stroke" the accelerator once and see of fuel comes out of the hole that the discharge tube goes in; if it does the pump is good. Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-31-2017 @ 5:32 AM |
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If the accelerator pump is bad it is about the easiest thing there is to replace. Just take the top off the carb. and it is easy to see what to do to get it out and install the new one. Usually they don't go bad; only if the leather is dried out or has a tear in it, are they bad as a rule. Regards, Steve Lee
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-31-2017 @ 10:04 AM |
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Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions. They are really appreciated. I had the 97 on my '34 roadster restored by Ken in 04/2013 and it has been working fine since then. I talked to Charlie on the phone and he had some really helpful suggestions. One of my Model T club members has a '35 Ford with a Stromberg 97 and recently had a similar problem. He replaced the accelerator pump and removed the pump check valve. He found some trash behind the valve and thinks that was probably his only problem. I'm in Houston now ( 2 doctor appointments) but I plan to fix it myself if I can. If not I plan to send it to Charlie. As the problem started right after I ran it out of gas I feel that some trash got picked up when that happened. I'll keep everyone posted as soon as I can. Thanks again, Robert This message was edited by Robert/Texas on 7-31-17 @ 2:19 PM
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| Robert/Texas | -- 08-07-2017 @ 6:42 PM |
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Thanks again to all of you. I just got back to it after doctor’s appointments and a long unexpected visit from a relative. I pulled out the accelerator pump and found that there was nothing left of the pump plunger material except for the spring that supports it. I bought a new pump and installed it today. The carburetor had the pump rod set at W (winter) so I changed it to S (summer). After I warmed the engine up I found that there was a slight stutter when I gave it the gas so I returned the rod to the winter position even though it was in the high 90’s at the time. Now it runs great with no hesitation. Thanks for helping me save money and frustration, Robert
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| ken ct. | -- 08-09-2017 @ 3:25 AM |
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In reality moving the rod to the winter position gives you a longer stroke. Also helps to install the longer of the 2 pump rods. (their are 2 diff. sizes of rods on these carbs. I have always used the longer one on all my rebuilds and on the "W" pin work much better. Also a 35 would have come from the factory with a model "48" not a 97. Would only matter in a National Ford meet , points would be deducted for that. ken ct. OPPS thought you said 35 yr. Yes 97 is correct for 37,sorry about that. ken This message was edited by ken ct. on 8-9-17 @ 3:27 AM
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| Robert/Texas | -- 08-10-2017 @ 12:53 PM |
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I have a 97 on both my ’37 Fordor and my ’34 roadster. I measured the length of the rods on both cars. The ’37 one measures 4 inches and the ’34 one measures 4-1/8 inches. The one on the ‘34 was rebuilt by Ken in 04/2013 so I assume that is the reason for the extra length. This car runs great with the rod on the summer setting. I’d like to have another longer one for the ’37 as one of the sockets on that one is damaged.
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