| 06Z71 | -- 04-13-2010 @ 8:16 AM |
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I recently inherited a 1935 Ford touring sedan. The car has the 221ci flathead V8 and runs very good. I would like to change the oil in this vehicle. I believe it has been rebuilt. I really don't know much about the old car and I'm still learning. To be honest I don't even know where to fill the oil. No cap!Before you laugh. I have worked on my own vehicles for years, so I'm not totally clueless to mechanics. I just would like some feedback before I dive into this car. I understand some of these did not have an oil filter. I have not checked for one yet. From my research it sounds like a non-detergent oil would be best. Any other advice as to maintenance on this car would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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| trjford8 | -- 04-13-2010 @ 8:41 AM |
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First, congratulations on owning your new/old 35 Ford. I would make a couple of suggestions before tinkering with your 35. First I would join the Early Ford V-8 Club.You will get 6 issues a year of the V-8 Times magazine and it is full of technical advice for the owners of the 32-53 Fords. You will also get a roster of members that will give you acess to other members in your area who also own flathead Fords. You'll find those members very willing to help you with your car. You can join the club on the front page of this site or by calling toll free 1-866-427-7583. Second I would purchase the restoration manual for the 35-36 Fords put out by the Early Ford V-8 Club.This book will give you a great deal of knowledge about your specific car. The book can be purchased on the front page of this site or by calling 707-226-5256 from 8:00am to 7:00pm PST. Lastly you will get several opinions about oil, but most will tell you that detergent oil is best. Over the years I have used Castrol 20/50. Your motor probably does not have a filter and if it was retrofitted with one, it would be mounted on the left head of the motor. Your oil fill cap is located at the back of the motor. The cap sits on the short tube just above the fuel pump.You will twist it slightly and pull up to remove it. This message was edited by trjford8 on 4-13-10 @ 8:43 AM
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| 4dFordSC | -- 04-13-2010 @ 8:43 AM |
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The oil filler cap is located on top of the fuel pump stand at the back of the block. Most engines of that era did not have an oil filter, although a by-pass filter was available as an option. If so equipped, it would be mounted to a head stud on left side of the engine. As for oil, you will get many opinions as to the best type and brand to use. Currently, there is a big debate going on about the reduced levels of ZDDP in modern oils and its potential effect on flat tappet engines like flatheads. Whether there is any justifiable concern is still unresolved, so far as I know. IMHO, it's more important just to keep it filled, and any good, clean oil will do. Personally, I use 15w-40 diesel engine oil, and change it every 1000 miles. I'm sure others will chime in with their preferences. Hope this helps, and enjoy your flathead:-)
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| Stroker | -- 04-13-2010 @ 9:25 AM |
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One reason you have trouble finding the oil fill cap, is that it doesn't "look" like a cap. On your 35, the "cap" is a rather odd-shaped triangular breather that has a screened rectangular opening facing forward to catch the air-blast from the fan. Rotate it about 1/8th turn counter-clockwise, and it should pull up and out. This was Ford's version of "Positive Crankcase Ventilation".
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| 39Fordfan | -- 04-13-2010 @ 9:35 AM |
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Hi 06Z71, Welcome to the club. I was a Newbie to flatheads myself about 3 years ago. I was like you, pretty experienced around cars but not these old flatheads. I took trjford's and other's advice and joined the EFV-8 club Nationally and Locally. I got the manual from this site on 38-39's. I have gotten all of my questions answered and have made a lot of friends. The roster of other local early V-8ers is a must have for some types of questions. Plus its great to go and tool around together in the old cars. I have been using Castrol 20/50 with maybe up to a quart of Marvel Mystery oil added to 3 quarts of 20/50 in the colder months. My car sat mostly unused for 20 years and the oil gets dirty pretty fast (within 200 to 500 miles) so I change it more frequently. I am thinking I will probably switch to Sh*ll Rotella for a season to try and pull more sludge out of it. Mine doesn't have an oil filter on it.
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| supereal | -- 04-13-2010 @ 10:16 AM |
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All good advice, but remember that a complete fill of oil after draining is 4 quarts, not the 5 as often cited in reprint manuals. I use either 20-50 Castrol, too, or sometimes Rotella 15-40. If you don't drive your car at least 10 miles every time you start it, change the oil at least every 500 miles. As for non-detergent oil or zinc enriched oil, save your money.
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| 06Z71 | -- 04-13-2010 @ 5:10 PM |
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Thank you for all the help. I look foward to enjoying this car and joining the club.
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| 37 Coupe | -- 04-13-2010 @ 6:52 PM |
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I disagree with the statement that oil capacity is 4 quarts,I have the original owners manual not a reprint for my 37 Ford 85 h.p engine which is same cubic inch 221 as the 35 engine,states right under specifications Oil pan capacity 5 quarts and this was before canister filter.
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-13-2010 @ 9:13 PM |
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37 Coupe, It is for this reason mostly, that Fords are known to copiously leak oil. The capacity of the crank case is 4 qts. With a filter, it is 5 qts. More than these amounts will soon be found on the street below the dangling cotter pin. Alan
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| 37 Coupe | -- 04-14-2010 @ 5:53 AM |
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I am just saying that is what my original 37 Ford owners manual specifies 5 quarts,I have the same original not reprint 37 Ford 60 h.p. manual and it specifies 4 quarts.Sure seems funny the Ford engineers had the owners manual printed wrong and they did it in other years too I bet. Would be interested in what other years original manuals have printed. Again I am not saying 4 quarts is too little and five is just right ,I am saying this is what Ford called out in at least 1937. When ever you get a chance to see an original Ford dealer service invoice check out how many quarts (at least what the customer was charged for) 5 quarts on 85 hp.
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| 42wagon | -- 04-14-2010 @ 6:08 AM |
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37 Coupe It has been reported many times on this site that the owner's manuals are not correct. The capacity of the oil pan is 4 qts. If you have a filter add a 5th qt. Next time you change your oil forget the owner's manual and do this: Put in 4 qts (assuming you don't have a filter), start the engine and let it idle to get oil up in the block. Now go measure the oil on your dip stick. If it needs another qt the manual is correct. If not all the guys on this web site are correct. Ted
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| supereal | -- 04-14-2010 @ 8:58 AM |
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Regardless of what your manual states, FOUR quarts is correct if there is no filter. The fifth quart will end up on your garage floor, on on the road. Put in 4 quarts, then mark your dipstick to show "full". Many engines have the wrong dipstick from swaps over the years.
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| jerry.grayson | -- 04-14-2010 @ 2:09 PM |
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This is an old argument, but drain the oil from your engine and then put 4 quarts in and look at the dip stick. I bet it will indicate FULL. JMHO
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| 4dFordSC | -- 04-14-2010 @ 2:18 PM |
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Mine always does.
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| 51f1 | -- 04-14-2010 @ 4:17 PM |
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I have an opinion about using synthetic oil. I read some articles recently, mostly relating to using synthetic oil in heavy equipment, that convened me that there is an advantage to synthetic oil that I did not fully appreciate. This is just my opinion. I haven't performed any scientific tests. If you don't drive your car or truck enough to reach the oil change mileage required by your owners' manual, use a top quality synthetic oil, and change your oil once a year. My owners' manual says to change the oil every 2,000 miles or 4 times a year, whichever is sooner (I have an 8RT with a by-pass filter). That's a pain as I'd be changing my oil every 3 months. After reading the articles, I don't think it is necessary if you use synthetic oils. Synthetic oils do not break down like conventional oils, and, in a year, I don't think any oil in an engine in good repair would become too contaminated. Synthetics do have disadvantages. Compatibility with some seals may be a problem, but rope-type seals shouldn't be. Some synthetics do not perform well in the presence of water and can decompose or break down, but, if you have water in your crankcase, oil change intervals are not your biggest worry. They also cost more per quart, though usually not on an oil-change basis. This is just my opinion, and I hate opinions on motor oils. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 4-14-10 @ 4:19 PM
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| TomO | -- 04-15-2010 @ 6:51 AM |
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Richard, you are entitled to your opinion and I respect your position. Dinosaur oil will not break down between oil changes either unless the engine is overheated. The main reason for frequent oil changes is that the oil becomes contaminated from combustion byproducts. Modern engines have full flow oil filters and computer controlled combustion to reduce the contaminants in the oil. Your truck has an inefficient carburetor and a bypass filter, allowing more of the contaminants to be circulated with the oil. I drive about 2,000 miles a year and change my oil every fall and then once or twice in the summer, when it begins to look dark. I also grease all of the fittings when I change the oil. Tom
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| lightflyer1 | -- 04-15-2010 @ 12:30 PM |
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I also have a 1935. I am in the CenTex area.
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