| Toybox225 | -- 07-12-2017 @ 12:08 PM |
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I have a 1941 Ford coupe with a serial number on title of 18-6264418. I have nothing on the body and a number on the frame that don't match the title. Can any one help me with what body type I have? I know it's a 11A but that's all I can find.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 07-12-2017 @ 12:34 PM |
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The 11A numbers that you are referring to are, 11A-67A For the Deluxe Coupe and 11A-67B for the Super Deluxe Coupe. That is just the model number and should have nothing with the title. The number on the frame is located on the drivers side, near the front crossmember. That is the number that should be on your title. The original engine number is also stamped on the top front of the transmission just above the inspection plate. That number and the frame number should match. Good luck!
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| 42wagon | -- 07-12-2017 @ 12:49 PM |
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For 1941 there were three coupes and several of them were in both the Deluxe and Super Deluxe lines. There was the coupe with no back seat Deluxe 11A-77A, Super Deluxe 11A-77B, and Special 11A-77C Next was the coupe with jump seats Deluxe 11A-67A, Super Deluxe 11A-67B, Finally the sedan coupe with full back seat Super Deluxe 11A-72. So depending on your seat arrangement and trim you can determine what coupe you have. You will not find a code anywhere on the car. What is more troubling is the fact that your title does not match your car. You haven't told us what your circumstances are. Is the car currently registered? If not how do you prove that the car is in fact the one described by the title paper? If you intend to sell it at some point how do you prove to the buyer that the car is in fact yours? I would make it a priority project to clarify that you own the car you are standing next to.
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| len47merc | -- 07-12-2017 @ 12:53 PM |
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Dovetailing with woodiewagon46, refer to this webpage: http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm From your serial number one can ONLY conclude the TITLE references a car likely made mid-year 1941. Check the window bugs on any of your original glass to see if this 'foots'. Additionally, check the number on the frame against the sequence. Really strange the number on the frame does not match the title. Absolutely would not fly here in NC. Additionally, following are all the Vehicle Legends for 1941 COUPES: 11A-67A Deluxe Coupe w/Jump Seats 11A-67B Super Deluxe Coupe w/Jump Seats 11A-72B Super Deluxe Sedan Coupe 11A-76B Super Deluxe Convertible Club Coupe 11A-77A Deluxe Coupe 11A-77B Super Deluxe Coupe 11A-77C Special Coupe One of these numbers should be found somewhere on your title. If not, you'll have to do some sleuthing on each of these models above to find the items of originality that correspond with the appropriate model above to get your answer. Were it me I'd get your title mess cleaned up now - selling that puppy could be a bear when the time comes. Steve
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 07-12-2017 @ 2:47 PM |
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As 42wagon states, the issue is that the chassis number and title don't match. Very often a worn out motor will be replaced but not a chassis. Unfortunately if the numbers don't match you might have to deal with your local DMV.
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| silverchief | -- 07-12-2017 @ 3:24 PM |
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My 46 was registered in Michigan, and Ohio by previous owners and by me in Illinois. No problem. When I moved to Colorado, in order to obtain a new title and plates, I was required to have a state trooper verify that there was some sort of number on my car that matched it's title. If not I was required to have the car appraised, and post a bond based on that value to insure it was not stolen. The number on the frame was no longer legible, and there was no number legible on the top of the transmission. In order to bypass the requirement of an appraisal and bond, I had to take the car to the local state police post where they riveted a tag on my doorframe with an automobile identification number. They gave me verifying paperwork which I had to take to the main office of the DMV, where I paid the necessary costs and was assured my title and plates would be in the mail. What I received was a letter saying because I had not had my car appraised and posted a bond, I would not be receiving title and plates. The governor has a "citizen's help" office at the state capitol. I wrote a detailed letter explaining my problem and dropped it off. Two weeks later I stopped back. They had done nothing. On my way out of the building I passed by the office of the state representative for my district. He was not in but his secretary took a copy of my letter and said she would be sure he saw it. 48 hours later a got a phone call from the DMV advising my plates and title were in the mail....and they were. Altogether I made 6 visits to various DMV offices, (take a number) and made numerous phone calls to them in an unsuccessful effort to solve my problem. In the end all it took was ten minutes with the right person. A lesson learned.
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| TomO | -- 07-12-2017 @ 4:57 PM |
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Toybox225, Are you having problems registering the car? Are you just looking to identify the body style? How different are the numbers on the frame from the title? Are you just missing some numbers or are all of the numbers there but not correct? Ford did not use body numbers on the bodies that they built until after 1948 models. The serial number that you provided falls in the range of 1941 serial numbers. The serial number uses the letter I for the numeral 1 Tom
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| Toybox225 | -- 07-13-2017 @ 4:29 AM |
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In Ohio I need a car dealership to inspect the title and the serial number. This car was a mess when I got it. No motor no trans the front end and rear ends have been cut off and dodge parts welded on. I will get the number on frame and post. Thanks for everyone help. Oh the only glass is in the doors.
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| len47merc | -- 07-13-2017 @ 4:40 AM |
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If it is the original glass the window bugs, if the glass is original, will show the date of manufacture of the car (month and year). The '41-'48 Ford Book has a very good description of how to read them. Steve
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| Toybox225 | -- 07-13-2017 @ 8:23 AM |
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Ok thank you Steve I will look tonight.
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| Toybox225 | -- 07-19-2017 @ 12:38 PM |
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I look at the Bug on glass passenger door window is E Ford DG. On the right vent window is B Ford DH the drivers door glass has LOF with AS2ALX. From what I been reading on bugs the glass is a 47 and 48. Can any one tell me what this part number stamp the top of fire wall to cow cover is ? It is stamp 22L179. This message was edited by Toybox225 on 7-20-17 @ 3:45 AM
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| wmsteed | -- 07-20-2017 @ 10:21 AM |
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It has become all to common for the serial numbers that are stamped into a frame being different from the numbers that appear on the legal paperwork. I have encountered this many times. In the past, pre-computer, it was not a big deal because vehicles did not migrate around the country/world like they do now. The usual encounter with such a thing was when a person moved to another state and the serial number had to be varified by law enforcement as a condition of the transfer. My brother owns a '37 Ford sedan which he had owned for over fifteen years in California, when he moved to Idaho in 1982, taking the '37 with him, upon inspection in Idaho it was found that the frame number and number on the title/registration did not match The car had all the appearances of being dead stock. Brother had purchased the car from a fellow member of the local EFV8 club in California. The man had owned the car for twenty years. It was obvious that the frame number had not been altered and the paper work trail went back many years. I do know that in 1955 a friend of mine bought a '40 Ford coupe which had a blown motor. In the process of removing the motor we found that the car had been in an accident at some time in it's life, the frame was badly bent. We went to a wrecking yard, purchased a frame from a '40 coupe and put that frame under my friends car. Additionally, a cousin of mine wrecked his '36 Ford coupe in 1947, it was a 5 window. He purchased a frame from a 3 window and put it under his car.. No thought was given to correct the serial numbers on either one of these cars. I now make it a habit to clear up the ownership, serial numbers, etc., prior to doing any work on an old car. In the last few years I have encountered several people that have purchased a vehicle with doubtful parentage, after speeding thousands of dollars on the restoration of the vehicle they find out that they can't obtain clear ownership to the car and/or it can't be registered. A friend of mine recently had to register his '37 Ford sedan street rod as a '96 Ford, complete with all of the safety and smog/emission equipment because he shot off his mouth about the '96 engine he had in it. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| len47merc | -- 07-20-2017 @ 2:31 PM |
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Hey John - I copied and pasted these two comments from a 2011 post here on our Forum. Maybe they'll help: "On top of the drivers side frame rail real close to where the steering box is riveted. I have used a pencil with soft lead and made rubbings where no numbers are visible and had the numbers show. In fact I have used the rubbings at the DMV" and " There is usually another on top of the rear frame "kick up", but can only be seen if the body is lifted" Steve
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| Drbrown | -- 08-02-2017 @ 11:04 PM |
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The above forum members provide body style info for you but you didn't mention looking for or checking the number stamped on the bell housing - view accessible thru the small removable steel "door' in the floor panel. I'm thinking a former owner used the number stamped on the bell housing perhaps because he could not see a number stamped on the frame in the engine compartment. As indicated, the frame vs. bell housing number may differ if the engine was replaced prior to your TITLE form being issued. At one time I investigated different numbers on my '47 super deluxe sedan coupe. I believe the "Early Ford V8 Club book says the official ID number is stamped on the drivers side of the frame in three (3) places, the rear two locations being difficult to access. The book also notes window glass was manufactured in a separate plant or later by an outside glass manufacturers (Herculite, Libby-Owen-Ford, etc) before car bodies (typically manufactured in a separate plant) were installed on car frames (typically manufactured in a separate plant). The book goes on to say glass probably was made about three months before it was installed in a car body on an assembly line. Therefore, date indicated in stamped "bug" on the original glass at best indicates only an estimated time period in which one can guess a car came off the assembly line. Likewise, a coded number stamped in the engine compartment on the upper-middle of the cowl is just data indicating body style, color, perhaps manufacturing plant ID, etc and isn't related to an ID of the particular vehicle. Car bodies were manufactured in different plants and to add to the confusion, apparently there was no uniform standard between plants as to forming that coded number. In your case and since there is already an established ID number for your vehicle shown on an existing legal TITLE document, if it were my vehicle I would leave things AS LEGALLY DELIVERED TO AND RECEIVED BY ME ..... as-is. This message was edited by Drbrown on 8-2-17 @ 11:13 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 08-04-2017 @ 9:49 AM |
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Toybox225, in reading your post you state that the front and rear ends were cut off and Dodge parts added. If they cut off the front of the frame the ID# was probably destroyed. There are secondary numbers on the top of the left frame rail that are under the body. You will have to lift off the body to see them
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