Topic: Low gas mileage


flatfoot    -- 06-16-2017 @ 7:51 AM
  I have a '36 Fordor Touring Sedan. It has a '37 motor with '36 heads. After a recent engine overhaul I am getting 7 miles per gallon. The carb was rebuilt just before the overhaul. I have less then 200 miles on the motor as I write. I have noticed the carb float chamber leaking over the top a little. I have tighten the screws but it still leaking a little. What can I do to increase the MPG? Or should I wait till it is broken in? I reside in Redding, CA population 90,000. Summer temp 90-110 F.

This message was edited by flatfoot on 6-16-17 @ 7:54 AM


carcrazy    -- 06-16-2017 @ 8:15 AM
  Low fuel economy could be caused by many things: brakes draging, insufficient spark advance, fuel level in the carburetor being too high. and excess friction in the engine or powertrain. Are the heads you put on the engine compatible with the pistons you are using? The combination of pistons and heads may be providing a compression ratio that is too low for good fuel economy. Seven MPG sounds way too low. I once owned a "brand X" car that got only 6 MPG when I bought it. After simply replacing a defective vacuum advance on the distributor, the fuel economy went to 12 MPG. Your problem may be something simple or a combination of things. Good luck sorting this out.


ken ct.    -- 06-16-2017 @ 8:28 AM
  All of the above could be it. Also who rebuilt the carb is it a 97 strom. the float sounds a little high,i have special top cover double thick special material gaskets that work wonders for leakers ,none better and all internal parts. Float should be set at flat end of float @1/4". ken ct 1-203-260-9780 cell.


flatfoot    -- 06-16-2017 @ 10:03 AM
  Yes, it is a strom 97. The heads are the same heads as before the overhaul. How to set the float is not something I know how to do. How do I get the gasket you are relating? I'm a novice at this type of thing.


flatfoot    -- 06-16-2017 @ 10:05 AM
  I don't have brake drag. I don't know about vaacum advance. I'm a novice on these things. Heads are same as before the overhaul. They were planed just a little.


1935fordtn    -- 06-16-2017 @ 11:51 AM
  I would be certain the vacuum brake is adjusted all the way out.. These cars do not have a vacuum advance. Did you have the Dizzy rebuilt?? If not I would highly recommend running it on a Sun Machine and be certain the advance weights are not stuck, and assure the timing is correct.

Also a good upgrade that does help fuel economy is to put 11A internals in the distributor. My 1935 Tudor which has a 3.54 rear, and otherwise all stock averages around 18-19 in the summer time.


len47merc    -- 06-16-2017 @ 1:57 PM
  flatfoot - just to calibrate your expectations, if you live in somewhat hilly terrain, run little-to-no highway and have a 3.78 rear, then 13-15 mpg is a reasonable expectation, with a 3.54 possibly a bit lower on hilly terrain, possibly a bit higher on flat, so there are a lot of variables that can affect what you ultimately get including altitude and appropriate engine adjustments. You'll get numbers all over the map if you ask for what you should expect so suggest you count on the mid-teens for city/highway and maybe as much as 18 on relatively flat/rolling hill highways and you shouldn't be far off or disappointed. If you've an OD, more mpg to you at highway speeds.

This said clearly you've got something going on at 7 mpg which as carcrazy said is way too low. Clearly the carb is a question mark if you are leaking so start there, get that right and move to the next - perhaps you'll be done with the carb issue resolve. I think ken ct. has retired from rebuilding - if so Charlie Schwendler in NY is still at it.

Right now you've got input on the carb, it is leaking and needs to be addressed, as well as vacuum advance, advance weights and vacuum brake. Before you go to far and try to shotgun several things at a time, work on one item at a time and see what results you get. Otherwise you may end up chasing yourself in circles, getting more confused and worst of all spending excess $$$'s. Carburetor sounds like a great starting point from your description.

How black are your plugs and tailpipe btw?

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 6-16-17 @ 1:58 PM


flatfoot    -- 06-16-2017 @ 2:06 PM
  Thanks for the response. I will take your advice and see what transpires.


TomO    -- 06-17-2017 @ 7:58 AM
  Did your gas mileage change from what you were getting before the engine rebuild?

Have you checked with the person that rebuilt your carburetor? It should not leak after a rebuild.

You can post all of your answers in one post, everybody can read them.

Tom


flatfoot    -- 06-17-2017 @ 7:32 PM
  Not much, but got about 9-10 mpg before. Still had the carb leak though. I don't know how to set the float?. Thought I would try thicker gasket?.


flatfoot    -- 06-17-2017 @ 7:34 PM
  I have 3:54 gears, '39 trans.


TomO    -- 06-19-2017 @ 7:46 AM
  Here is a link to adjustments on the Stromberg Carburetor. When you read it pay particular attention to the fuel pressure statement. If your fuel pump is providing too much pressure, it will force the needle valve open.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/Flathead_trouble-carbs_34-38strom.htm



Tom


flatfoot    -- 06-27-2017 @ 11:11 AM
  No black exhaust or anything like that. I going to try and find a Sun Machine here in Redding CA. Thanks a lot.


TomO    -- 06-28-2017 @ 7:23 AM
  Just finding a Sun machine to check pout the distributor, is not enough. The operator should have experience on the machine with the early Ford V-8 distributors. Most of the people that I would recommend, live quite a distance from CA.

You live in pretty hilly country, so your mileage will not be as good as we get in the flat country of the Midwest.

I would address the leaking carburetor first. It is not only affecting your mileage, it is a fire hazard. If you are unable to stop the leak, I suggest that you contact the local regional people for suggestions on who can rebuild your carburetor on the West Coast.

You can also improve your mileage by having the 11A advance mechanism installed in your distributor. Cliff Green of the Northern Virginia Regional Group does this.

cliffgreen@cox.net

Here is a link to an article that he wrote on distributors.

http://www.nvrg.org/Valve%20Clatter/Archives/2011/VC0511.pdf

Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Tom


ken ct.    -- 06-28-2017 @ 7:32 AM
  I would recommend Uncle Max on here in Salt Lake City , Utah or Charlie NY both are on the Fordbarn web site also. They are the best of the best. ken ct.


len47merc    -- 06-28-2017 @ 8:45 AM
  Agree with TomO completely - address the carb first before anything else. ken ct's recommendation of Charlie Schwendler in NY is money as well.

Steve


flatfoot    -- 06-28-2017 @ 1:24 PM
  Thank you all for responding. I will attack the carb first. I will let you all know.


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