| silverchief | -- 06-04-2017 @ 10:54 AM |
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Finally traced the drain in my 46 to the clock. Connected - serious drain. Disconnect - no drain. I had it rebuilt several years ago and it operates fine. If I thought I could correct the problem I would pull it out. Helpful thoughts and information will be appreciated.
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| len47merc | -- 06-04-2017 @ 1:07 PM |
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Silverchief - I recalled your having a very lo g and extended discussion on this previously, so I searched and found it here: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?forum=18&topic=9745 Review the entire thread and pay particular attention to pages 3 & 4 and the images on those pages and see if that helps. Steve
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| silverchief | -- 06-04-2017 @ 2:26 PM |
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Thanks very much Steve. I tried to pull it up using SEARCH under "clock" but was not successful. I note on my wiring diagram that the clock has two wires. The fused wire runs to the circuit breaker, (it tests live) and the other to the dash lights rhesostat - which gets it's power from a terminal on the light switch. My rheostat is a piece of recently purchased Chinese junk that does not work as it is supposed to - so I threw it out and plugged the two wires into a female connector. Now my dash lights work and my test light shows no drain. I long ago replaced the metal fuse holder with plastic to eliminate any possibility of metal to metal contact at the clock. Just now when I connected the fused wire, my clock keeps correct time and rewinds itself every two minutes, and my test light shows no drain. That is the present status. Still not certain what the problem was. I will check my batt tomorrow morning to see if it still shows 6 volts. Re reading my original thread and lengthy replies, shows how unselfishly the guys in our club give of their time and knowledge in trying to help a fellow member. Some of their unnecessary headache was caused by my failure to accurately describe wiring connections, and for that I apologize. Thanks again.
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| Drbrown | -- 06-04-2017 @ 7:05 PM |
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May be internal leak in clock. Had my '47 clock rebuilt and kept the original 3 amp fuse holder, being sure all the little parts inside it were insulated from each other. I added a toggle switch on its feed wire so I can shut the clock off if the car is going to sit more than a few days. I usually don't do long-enough trips to warrant use of the clock. This message was edited by Drbrown on 6-4-17 @ 7:07 PM
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| supereal | -- 06-25-2017 @ 1:37 PM |
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Don: I use a master switch on the battery to cut off all power in the car when it is not in use. I do have to reset the clock the next time I connect the battery, but that is no big deal. Many remove the fuse to prevent battery discharge, but with a master switch I don't have to fool with it. A master switch also assures that any old wiring won't short and set the car (and garage) on fire!
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| DD931 | -- 06-27-2017 @ 1:40 PM |
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If memory serves - and it's getting a little tired! - clocks of this vintage have an internal solenoid that winds a mainspring that will run the clock for a few minutes until it runs down and a set of contacts are made to have the solenoid rewind the spring again. It's a regular non-electric escapement movement, with a solenoid operated wind-up. The problem that happens is that the contacts burn and stick over time, resulting in a current drain as they keep sending current to the solenoid coil. It's not switched, so it just uses up electrons while it sits.
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| DD931 | -- 06-27-2017 @ 1:43 PM |
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I should have read some other posts before sticking my oar in. There is a similar discussion about a "clock not clocking" that gives a similar explanation. Only in that case the contacts are failing open, not closed.
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| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10826 |