| 1937sedandelivery | -- 05-01-2017 @ 11:20 AM |
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Hello, I am rebuilding my Stromberg 97 carb for my 37 Fordor. There is a spacer of sorts that was between the card and intake manifold. I have no idea what this is for nor whether I should keep it on the engine. Any clues??? The right angle copper piece has some kind of opening in it which probably feeds through an opening in the inside of the spacer. Is this a stock piece? Pros and cons of using it? Thanks, Gregg
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| MG | -- 05-01-2017 @ 11:42 AM |
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Looks like a vacuum port used for a operation of a Columbia rear end. Was there any plumbing connected to it?....
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| Stroker | -- 05-01-2017 @ 12:37 PM |
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I believe MG is correct about it being a vacuum source for a Columbia, as they required a large "volume" of air-flow to operate the large shift cylinder on the axle . My Columbia has an identical spacer. The only "con" to using it, is that you have TWO gasket surfaces to make leak-proof instead of just one. Unless you need a lot of vacuum-flow to operate something, it is rather pointless to keep it.
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| 42merc | -- 05-01-2017 @ 12:44 PM |
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Me thinks it probably was the vacuum source for a South Wind gas heater.
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 05-01-2017 @ 12:44 PM |
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Thanks for the swift responses. Nothing was connected to it, so it was probably causing a vacuum leak. I haven't started the car since I bought it a month ago. Still working on getting everything in shape for the big Day. This part will go into my bag of "stuff" for now. I believe the rearend in the car is a regular stock one, but will look into that also. Gregg
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| ken ct. | -- 05-01-2017 @ 1:04 PM |
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42 Merc is correct,don't need it. You might need shorter carb mount studs if carb wont tighten up good to manifoldPO may have installed longer ones to use the plate. Normal hardware stores carry carb studs.ken ct. You also get a little more ommph from a 48 carb as its a little bigger internally, jets,power valve are bigger than in a 97. ken ct. This message was edited by ken ct. on 5-1-17 @ 4:26 PM
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 05-01-2017 @ 9:38 PM |
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That may be the case. My car doesn't have a heater now, but it appears that one used to be installed. More investigation is needed on my part. And yes, the studs are too long. For now I am using a 3/8" nut as a spacer. Eventually will replace the studs with shorter ones. My next journey on the path to get it started is to tackle the starter solenoid. It works, but gets hot after prolonged cranking (may be normal)... I just took apart the solenoid, not too bad, some pitting. Will clean it up and put it back together. Thanks, Gregg
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| drkbp | -- 05-04-2017 @ 5:22 AM |
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1937, What jet & power valve size do you intend to use in the 97? Ken in Texas
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| ken ct. | -- 05-04-2017 @ 6:11 AM |
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You can install a # 63 power valve and main jets .048 from a 48 to a 97 and it will equal performance of a #48. No sweat on this. ken ct. Also use the longer accelerator rod on the 48. Their are 2 diff sizes of rods used on strombergs long rod measures 3.805 / short one is 3.645. I have all parts in stock if you cant find them. ken ct.
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| drkbp | -- 05-04-2017 @ 10:26 PM |
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Interesting thread. I have a Stromberg 97 on the bench that I am rebuilding that has been on my '35 for years. Took it apart and cleaned it up last weekend. Turns out it had .045 jets and a 63 power valve in it. I bought a 65 power valve and was going to put that in because it always seemed to be running too rich. The 65 shouldn't make it run too lean should it? What spark plug should I run? Ken in Texas
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| len47merc | -- 05-05-2017 @ 7:03 AM |
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drkbp - what makes you say '...it always seemed to be running too rich...'? Even with perfectly burning plugs the tail pipe on a well-tuned flathead will have a slight show of darkness to it. As well mostly around-town, stop and go driving can give that impression. Additional other factors to consider may be at play if it is in fact running rich. Let us know what is driving your comment and perhaps others can weigh in with things for you to look at before you change your power valve. A pic of your plugs would be helpful if you have one. Steve
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2017 @ 7:36 AM |
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.045 main jets and # 65 PV are stock issue on a 97. Idle mix screws should be turned out 3/4 to 1 turn out from litely closed. Use the summer setting on the pump rod or use the shorter rod. ken ct.PV on a strom.only feeds gas when throttle is floored and wide open throttle. .048's and # 63 PV are stock issue on 48's also stock issue on an 81 are .031 mj's and # 71 PV.
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| drkbp | -- 05-05-2017 @ 2:36 PM |
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Steve I believe the tail pipe is as you say. What drove the remark is a couple of weeks ago when I started up the car, I was unable to get it to idle without having the throttle pulled out a little. I drive, or start this car, every week to 10 days. Drove it about two miles and still was unable to get the car to idle. It was running rich in the shop because I could smell the fuel. I have been driving this car for 42 years and the gas mileage has always been poor. It does have a 4.11 in it so that is probably most of it. I adjusted the idle needle valve jets to no avail. Decided to mount another Stromberg 97 I had that was a NORS rebuild out of a west Texas supply house I had for 35+ years. I was able to get it to idle but still seemed to smell too much fuel or peculiar exhaust odor. At that point I decided to rebuild both 97 carburetors. I do have another carburetor which is a Holley 94 which is NORS but went back to the "rebuild both 97's" idea. Went on Stromberg's site and found that the standard was .045 with a #65 power valve. Ordered a kit off ebay. It came with no power valve and the jets were not marked. Since I wasn't sure what I had, I ordered two sets of .045 jets and #65 power valves. The one 97 I had been running for years, that wouldn't idle, was off the the car so I cleaned it up last weekend. The hardest thing to do was to get the #63 power valve out of it. I bought the jet tool so they came out easily. The carb was pretty nasty but it's clean now. All the passageways are clean. The power valve area was the dirtiest. The only thing a little out of wack is the top of the carburetor, the P-19403T Air Horn. Someone years ago tightened the screws around the float bowl too tight and "pooched up" the corners. I am a little hesitant to try and bend those corners back down. I was already working on this a couple of weeks when this thread appeared. What happened to make it where I couldn't get it to idle? I only have a couple of ideas. 1. Maybe I depressed the accelerator too hard and got a piece of trash lodged in the power valve. That could keep the power valve from closing and allow fuel to flow into the 97 even at idle. Maybe, what do y'all think? 2. The fuel smelling rather foul could indicate separation/water. Questionable, but the exhaust does smell. 3. I am going to drain the fuel tank and start over on that one. Car has a hydro static gauge and I haven't drained the tank in 7 or 8 years since I last put in a new air line and reset the gauge. I took pictures today but my cell phone has to be updated. I will do that this afternoon after the folks get through installing a new A/C for the main house. I do like to post what they look like and I took photos of the right bank plugs. Can I clean up the #63 power valve and use it? Or is that bad business? I don't believe I have posted a photo before but will learn with the four Autolite 386 spark plugs. Seems like I ran another plug years ago but I can't remember what it was. Thanks for your suggestions, Ken in Texas
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2017 @ 4:02 PM |
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After laying around for 35 yrs all the gaskets are most likely shrunk or deteriaoted. Wasent a wize choice to install that one. If you got the 63 PV out why not install the 65 one.?? Did you clean out the small holes in the venturie base their are 4 of them. Real tiny. ken ct Try a set of Champion "D-21" plugs these are fairly hot plugs may work better. I use them in my 36 have had good luck with them for the last 25 yrs. ken ct This message was edited by ken ct. on 5-5-17 @ 4:11 PM
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| len47merc | -- 05-05-2017 @ 5:25 PM |
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I don't want to hijack 1937sedandelivery's discussion thread and will suggest drkbp open an new one. Will add here to drkbp that if his car was running well for years and then seemed to start running rich to find the source of the issue with like components and then optimize beyond that. Changing anything before diagnosing the source of an issue will only compound the problem and then after that, changing anything more than 1 item at a time will further exacerbate the issue. Were it me and you are confident the carb is the issue I'd send it to one of the experts recommended herein for a rebuild. No disrespect intended - I rebuilt my 94 3 times as I'd rebuilt carbs my whole life and thought I knew everything. Never could get it to run right. Sent it to a recommended expert here and it was found the flanges were warped and it was sucking air through the sides. After proper machining and install of proper components it was plug 'n play after that. Could've save myself hours upon hours of heart ache, self deprecation and confusion and still come out ahead financially as well as saved time in the long run. If you do this and it still runs poorly at least you can rule out 1 item - the carb, but not perhaps other fuel system components. Fwiw. Steve
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| drkbp | -- 05-05-2017 @ 6:12 PM |
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Ken, That's what I will do. I'll put in the new .045 jets and use the new #65 PV. Do you recall what the gap is on the D-21 plug? I have been using the Autolites with a .025 gap. I believe I have all the very small passages and holes clean but will make another check before I reassemble. Thank you for the suggestion and I will let you know how it works out, Steve, The hijack is my fault and I didn't see your post until I made my last. Good points you make and may be the real answer. Will try a shot with this carb and go from there. Ken in Texas This message was edited by drkbp on 5-5-17 @ 6:20 PM
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