| trjford8 | -- 03-27-2017 @ 6:56 AM |
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Beautiful Mercury. Check the ground cables If it has the old braided type ground cables they can corrode and poor grounding is the result. Put on new cables. Make sure there is also a ground from the body to the frame. grounding is critical in a 6 volt system. Also make sure the cables are 6 volt and not 12 volt. The cable from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter should be at least 2 gauge or larger.
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| ken ct. | -- 03-27-2017 @ 7:35 AM |
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Looks like possibly incorrect fuel pump,hard to see it would need closer pics of it 3-4 of them.Car looks super fine. ken ct.
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| len47merc | -- 03-27-2017 @ 8:16 AM |
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Rustymopar - to answer your question on value the old adage 'whatever someone is willing to pay for it' applies, but given the credentials of the car, and assuming the condition to still be consistent with and accurate representations of those credentials, I'll take a stab at ~$50K-55K for the value based on 4 pricing resources I have. Possibly more if it has strictly been a show car and not driven AND you can bring it back to the 'then' condition, possibly less if any changes/departures from original have been effected &/or current conditions warrant. Noticed a bit of rust on the block around the heads - makes one wonder how this may play out elsewhere on a car with these (past, dated) credentials. Likely not much - assume though it has been stored in a humid environment. EDIT - also, does the car have complete records of the resto? Mike Kubarth (kubes40) can give you the most accurate read on value on a '40 (albeit possibly Ford specific) - he likely knows the car and may have records on it, and may have actually performed some work on it in the past. Hopefully he can weigh in here - suggest you pm him with the serial number located on the top forward driver's side of the frame in the engine compartment. On the slow start - how long did it sit? Did you change the oil? As others have said, focus on all the grounds and freshen them up with new cables if necessary, and confirm all the original grounds are on the car. From what I could see in the photographs the cables on the battery look period & gauge correct at first blush but closer inspection would be necessary to confirm. Did it always sit on the tires or was it stored wheels up on stands supporting the frame? Is this car in NC (given its Pinehurst credentials)? If so, would be very interested to know if Clint Bivens was involved with the car (looks like it). Would love to have a look at it in person as I live near Raleigh. Beautiful car - would love to have it myself, especially if Clint was involved! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 3-27-17 @ 8:26 AM
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| ken ct. | -- 03-27-2017 @ 8:20 AM |
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Pump is right in back of carburetor,looks like may be a 34 to early 36. They are very close in appearance but owners of in those yrs would spot it in a minute.34-40.As a long time rebuilder of carbs,fuel pumps and distributors I would need better and more pics of it. All single action pumps would work satifactorly on that motor from 34-53. Just disregard if inquiry dosen,t interest you. It was just for your info. ken ct.
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| TomO | -- 03-27-2017 @ 9:02 AM |
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That is a very nice example of the 4 door convertible. To fix the slow cranking on it would be the same procedure that I would use on any car. 1) Check the battery voltage while cranking the engine. The reading should be above 5 volts. Any reading below that means that the battery does not have enough of a charge to crank the engine. 2) Check for resistance in the starting circuit. a) Set the meter scale to read a maximum between 6 and 10 volts. b) Connect the volt meter COM or black lead to the NEG post of the battery and the + or Red lead to the cable connection on the starter motor. c) crank the engine with the ignition OFF and read the meter. The meter reading should be less than 0.3 Volts. -A higher reading when cranking the engine means there is too much resistance in the circuit. -Isolate the source of the resistance by moving the Red lead of the meter to the previous connection spot on the starter solenoid. -Repeat the test and now the reading should be less than 0.2 Volts. If the reading is OK replace the cable to the starter, if it is still high, move the Red lead to the input of the solenoid and repeat the test with the max reading now 0.1 Volt. -If the reading is in specs, replace the starter solenoid, if it is high, replace the battery cable with a new 6 volt cable. 3) to check the ground circuit, connect the red meter lead to the POS terminal of the batery and the black lead to the case of the starter. Crank the engine with the ignition OFF and read the meter. The max reading should be 0.1 volt. A higher reading means resistance in the circuit. Check the cables by moving the black meter lead to the cable that connects the engine to the fire wall and repeating the test. The fuel pump looks correct to me. The output port is lower than the input port and there are no tabs on the sediment bowl cover. I would look in the Old Cars Price Guide. It should be available at your local library reference center or online here: http://www.oldcarsbookstore.com/2015-collector-car-price-guide?lid=ocwnav I would ask the price for a no. 1 condition car from your description. My guess would be in the $55,000 - $65,000 range. The car is rare, but there appears to be less demand for them than the convertible coupe or a Ford from the same year. The horn button appears to be incorrect, but that could just be the lighting. I have attached a photo of a correct horn button. If you need one, I have one for sale. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 03-27-2017 @ 9:11 AM |
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The prices in the 2016 Collector Car PRICE GUIDE are actually 5% higher for a 4d Conv Sed than the 2d Conv. For a '40 Merc 4d Conv Sed level 2 'FINE' car the price guide shows $44,100 and for Level 1 'EXCELLENT' car $63,000. These prices are roughly consistent with the other pricing sources I have. Suspect given the time the car may have been sitting it will fall somewhere in the middle at this point in time pending your returning it to the original resto condition. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 3-27-17 @ 9:12 AM
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| len47merc | -- 03-27-2017 @ 10:15 AM |
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Thanks for the chat Rusty. Truly respect your efforts and investment in support of your colleague's family. All the best - will keep my eyes posted. Steve
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| 37 Coupe | -- 03-28-2017 @ 6:47 AM |
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This post caught my attention because of the make and year of the car and the Ohio plates. I met an 85 year old man at a local swap meet Sunday who has quite a few Fords. He seems to be like so many of the collectors on American Pickers that family members want them to sell but they are hesitant or price so high they won't sell. One car in particular he wants to sell is a '27 Model T roadster pickup for $27,000 or as he said a grand for every year. He mentioned a '40 Mercury convertible 4 door that he has owned for years which would not be as nice as yours I imagine,full house flathead in it. Don't know the price ,didn't ask but what was interesting to me he said when he bout this 40-50 years ago he had a choice of it or a '58 Corvette for $2,500. He opted for the Merc thinking it would be the better investment and has been in disbelief ever since. I may take a look at the Mercury after seeing your pictures. Definitely something different and not a mousetrap rumble lid for the grandkids.
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| TomO | -- 03-28-2017 @ 7:12 AM |
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There is no need for a ground strap from the starter to the frame. There are supposed to be 2 ground straps, one from the battery to the firewall and one from the firewall to the engine. The starter is grounded by the face that meets the oil pan. Originally the face and the mounting flange were not painted to give a good ground. Those appear to be original 1940 plugs. Tom
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| Rustymopar | -- 03-28-2017 @ 8:13 AM |
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My apologies to all who have taken the time to respond to me and this post. 1) I am not an EFV8 guy. I knew nothing about them until recently. I'm a Mopar and Mustang guy, with a new found interest and eye for EFV8's. 2) The term positive ground did not resonate with me until 1am-3:30 am, while tossing and turning in bed over the Merc. I know now the positive terminal grounds to the firewall. 3) I did not know the toggle switch beneath the steering column was the "On/Off" for the car. 4)It fired up the first time with a half of a revolution. I started and stopped it about 6 times. It purrs and I have a video. I feel foolish, however at 52 years old, it just reaffirms, I really know very little. BUT,,, I sure as heck know how to start a EFV8 1940 Merc now.. ;-)
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| trjford8 | -- 03-28-2017 @ 5:05 PM |
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Rustymopar, don't feel bad about making mistakes. Some of us have been around these old Fords for decades and we are still learning.
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| alt63bird | -- 03-28-2017 @ 5:39 PM |
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"...But being that it has been a judged Concourse de' Elegance car, I'd like to think it has the correct fuel pump..." Something to bear in mind: there's a difference between a car being judged by people who are well-versed on a specific manufacturer/make/model versus a panel of local dignitaries or people who may know something about old cars in general but not about specific details and authenticity. I lump most non-marque judged events into the latter group from first-hand experience as their judging has to cover a broad range of manufacturers/years, making it nearly impossible for a team with varied backgrounds and knowledge to correctly evaluate every little detail without some kind of omission, error or subjective guess. Having been involved in marque-club judging at a national level, as well as local charity Concours events and even multi-marque-related ones, I'd put more faith in the bona-fides of a car if it was judged by a group dedicated to that particular make, i.e. Early Ford V8 Club. From the photos in Photobucket it appears to have participated in at least a couple of EFV8CA regionals/nationals, so that's a plus. Non-marque club Concourses, IMHO, typically are "beauty contests" that don't take authenticity into consideration as much as presentation and condition. Would you expect an expert on B-body Mopars to be asked to look at a Model 'J' Deusenburg and validate its authenticity, or vice versa? This message was edited by alt63bird on 3-28-17 @ 5:54 PM
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| len47merc | -- 03-28-2017 @ 8:10 PM |
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alt63bird - I agree completely with your comments while at the same time draw everyone's attention to the two EFV8 badges on the license plate cover. Both of those badges are Dearborn Award License Tabs which I recall from memory are awarded the first and each successive time a V-8 Medallion Award is earned. Hence, this car has been through at least 3 Regional or National Meets and judgings and likely has seen more. Suspect the records will show the latter is the case. This makes a much stronger case regarding the car's integrity from our EFV8 perspectives. I did some background work for personal edification on this car with intent to purchase myself. In the end I found two things - 1) The car is 'too perfect' (if a car can be that) for my purposes (it is truly a show car that for me I would not want to drive and enjoy like I do my '47), and 2) This car is the real deal. If I had a garage for jewel and show piece display I might think about it again. I'd love to drive this across country but think I'd likely drive myself crazy having to wipe every speck of dirt off when it appears - top and bottom side. Very nice car and IMHO very attractively priced! Also, the first time I've seen a 26.6Mb file successfully attached to a post! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 3-28-17 @ 8:17 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 03-29-2017 @ 7:12 AM |
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alt63bird, those Dearborn license tabs are the "gold" award from the Early Ford V-8 Club of America. That car has been gone over with a fine toothed comb from stem to stern by Mercury experts. The car is also documented with the Early Ford V-8 Club. The AACA badge is nice, but can't hold a candle to the judging by the V-8 Club. Whoever purchases this car will get an extremely authentic Mercury, just like it left the factory in 1940. Actually maybe better than it left the factory.
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| ken ct. | -- 03-29-2017 @ 7:33 AM |
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Tom O , 34-early 36 small domed pumps also have the outlet much lower than the inlet and a cover w/no tabs. The top cover on his pump looks to be more sharper cone shaped.late 36-40 pumps have a slightly flatter and lower top cover. Hey he can do what he wants with the info,it doesn't quite look right to me from that pic. ken isidor ct.
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| cliftford | -- 03-29-2017 @ 9:15 AM |
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Rustymopar: That is one magnificent car. From what I can see and the info you've given, someone will get a bargain for 50k. I wouldn't take a dime less for it. Incidently, I have been working on these old v8s for 60 years off and on [I'm 78]and am still learning more about them. Good luck.
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| TomO | -- 03-29-2017 @ 2:43 PM |
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Rustymopar, That is a very nice car and you should be able to get your price. I saw your photobucket photos and the car does have the correct horn button. You may want to post the photos on Google photos, the photos seem to scroll faster on it. I don't have the room or the energy to handle another car, or I would be a buyer at that price. Tom
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| Rustymopar | -- 03-30-2017 @ 3:57 PM |
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I took a few more photos of it today after being detailed. Although it was a cloudy day, the Merc looked incredible.
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| len47merc | -- 03-31-2017 @ 5:16 AM |
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Tom - this would be an excellent complement to your '40 Merc coupe sitting side-by-side in your garage! Same color palette - would match well and take minimal-to-no energy at all to get her there! With a bit of mental (and financial) effort you could have the complete (Dearborn Emeritus) set! Just sayin'... Steve
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| TomO | -- 03-31-2017 @ 10:02 AM |
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Steve, My collector car garage is just a 2 car garage and I could not squeeze that car in between my Mercury Coupe and my Lincoln Coupe. Washing and waxing 2 collector cars is all I can handle and I would not have time to drive 3 cars. My 40 saw little road time last summer. Both of them were on vacation, before I sold my Cutlass. Rusty, did you solve the slow cranking problem? Tom
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| len47merc | -- 03-31-2017 @ 10:10 AM |
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Sounds like it's time for the Lincoln to find a new home Tom! I think the slow crank was associated with with the battery being reversed and also weak. See his reply with the 26.6 Mb file attached and just prior. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 3-31-17 @ 10:22 AM
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| Rustymopar | -- 04-01-2017 @ 11:44 AM |
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Yes. I solved the slow crank issue. It was a non issue.
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| TomO | -- 04-01-2017 @ 6:30 PM |
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Steve, The Lincoln is my wife's favorite car. I do not want to make her angry. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 04-02-2017 @ 5:16 AM |
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Well Tom, 'If Momma ain't happy...'. 10-4. Good luck with your sale Rusty! Steve
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| efv8CofAAdmin | -- 05-12-2017 @ 9:32 PM |
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I have been asked by "Rustymopar" to remove discussion and pictures of the vehicle. I have retained the other discussion posts because of their value with regards to solving a problem. Web Administrator
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| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10635 |