| Jules51 | -- 03-06-2017 @ 6:35 AM |
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Morning all; I'm restoring my grandfathers 51 and have completed the following: engine rebuilt; trans w/OD rebuilt plus many of the other standard processes. My questions: 1-Engine - what is recommended for oil and any additive for the start-up and when should I drain it? 2-Trans: I used Sta-Lube SL-40; filled both OD and Trans compartments, let set to equalize - I'm curious to know what is standard qty? 3-Radiator - looking to replace; Copper and Brass Construction or Aluminum Radiators? Also, read about wetting additives - recommended or not? Also, any other best practices before start-up? Thanks Jules51
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| TomO | -- 03-06-2017 @ 8:00 AM |
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Talk to your rebuilder about the engine oil. If you follow his recommendations, he will not have wiggle room if something goes wrong. I would not use any additives in the oil, unless the rebuilder recommends them. Some additives will help clear up a problem, but most of them are bad for the major companies oil additives. The most important thing you can do to extend engine life and reduce sludge is to run the engine until it fully warms up, every time you start it. This means driving about 20 miles each time. If you can't do this, the next best is to run it on a long trip regularly. Unless your core is leaking or the fins are lose, I would just have the radiator cleaned. If the core is bad, then a quality re-core is best. The wetting agents do work somewhat, but the most important part of the cooling system is a good c;ean radiator with the same coolant capacity as the original. My 1953 Lincoln has the original radiator and it stays right in the normal range in all temperatures. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 03-06-2017 @ 9:47 AM |
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Tom gives very good advice concerning asking your engine and transmission Builders what you should use. In that regard I will only add from experience that using a break in oil for 500 miles does help everything to set more quickly and then subsequently run the next Oil Change of Quality national brand detergent 10W-30 for a Thousand Miles and beyond that normal protocol. Regarding water wetters I've tried several and done a matrix study at various concentrations of water wetter in pure distilled versus water wetter and coolant with distilled and my personal results show they are of minimal value. Unless you're just running pure water with them there's really no need, except perhaps for your personal peace of mind. It seems the best application for water wetters is in racing applications where you are not running any antifreeze. To Tom's point the best solution for optimum cooling is an Optimally operating cooling system - radiator, water pumps, thermostats, clean block, etc., and a modest concentration of antifreeze meaning 75/25 distilled/coolant (assuming your local conditions allow for a lower concentration). Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 3-6-17 @ 12:36 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 03-06-2017 @ 4:03 PM |
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My answers to your questions are: Run the oil and break-in additives that the engine rebuilder recommends. If he doesn't offer a recommendation, I would run a good quality SAE 20 weight detergent oil with Red Line engine oil break-in additive. The engine will be wearing in and particles will be accumulating in the oil. After the first 500 to 1000 miles I would change the oil and filter and run whichever oil you want along with the Red Line additive which contains the proper quantities of ZDDP additives to reduce premature wear of the cam lobes and tappet sliding friction surfaces. For the overdrive transmission, I would run the an API GL-1 SAE 90W mineral gear oil. Use this oil in both the main transmission and the overdrive unit mounted on the rear of it as their oil cavities are interconnected. The GL-1 oil required for the O/D trans. is available from NAPA in 1 gallon containers as part no. 65-201. Your local store may not have it in stock but they can order it for you. It costs about $15 per 1 gallon container. For the radiator I would run distilled water and as much anti-freeze as you require to prevent freezing in the area where you live. If you are in an area which never experiences freezing temperatures, just run distilled water with a little water pump lubricant to prevent corrosion. Distilled water is the best coolant. Anti-freeze is required to prevent freezing and is useful to raise the boiling point of the coolant. As others have stated the use of water wetting agents is of questionable value - I would avoid them. For the rear axle, use a good quality name brand API GL-5 80W-90 Hypoid Gear Oil from Valvoline or Pennzoil. Hope this helps.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-07-2017 @ 11:15 AM |
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originals were copper and brass; aluminum will run hotter!
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-07-2017 @ 11:31 AM |
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Best practice is to get something to spin the oil pump with an electric drill to prime it and oil all bearing surfaces BEFORE START UP! I recommend, and all builders of motors lke H&H, Valvoline 30-50 racing oil with zinc. Without the zinc, which the EPA banned, you'll ruin the cam shaft in the first 30 minutes to one hour!!
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-07-2017 @ 11:44 AM |
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Standar Qty. in the o'drive trans is 4 1/2 pts.total (added a little at a time to both units.) Be sure to use Non synthetic oil that doesn't have modern additives that will ruin bronze/ brass syncros and bushings! Check with randy Rundle @ Fifth Avenue Garage in Clay Center, Kansas.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-07-2017 @ 11:51 AM |
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If your in a cooler climate you could use 10w 30 at break in.I'd change the "Break in oil" at 500 miles. The best way to initially"seat" the rings is to drive in 3rd gear about 30mph and then speed up to about 40mph "lugging" the motor, about 1o times.I was a mechanic rebuilding motors and an old school guy(older than me) taught me this early on, and it makes sense and "does the trick."
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-07-2017 @ 12:09 PM |
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Ford factory NEVER RAN ADDITIVES in the motors from the factory!Does that tell you something!!?? I agree the best coolant in the world is ? WATER!!! I run distilled water in both of my 1950 Ford cars with a little anti freeze to prevent CORROSION!I'm in florida so no concerns of freezing. If your in a colder climate, use a little more, but just enough to ta broken block. Anti -freeze hold heat- thus you run HOTTER!!! One when atfull operating temp. runs about a needle width past 1/2, tha other between 1/2 and 3/4 and neither ever overheats! a run a 4lb. cap. The difference in the two reading is gauge accuracy. I tested with a thermometer and both are very close to 180. You need to do this to find out if your running at a good temp and what your gauge reads Ford said they should run in the middle area of the temp gauge at that 180 temp! "Flatheads overheat is an old wifes tale!" If your overheating something is wrong!! I ran my 1950 in N.J, in the summer at 90-95 degrees out, without a fan for about week, every day, summer, at all different speeds-(so I had a little more power to beat the other guys when we drag raced), and never overheated!!! Stupid- but I did it!!
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| Stroker | -- 03-07-2017 @ 1:38 PM |
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sarahcelia, like you I used to "race" flatheads. I lived "out west" and we did often have overheating issues with ALL brands of engines, not just Flatties. I agree with you regarding "Mouse-Milk" additives, and water being the Best Coolant as LONG as you add a little water-pump lube and rust inhibitor. We used to use a product called Mac's #13 "unlucky for rust" engine coolant additive. It was just an emulsible oil that blended with the water and stayed in suspension. I'm not crazy however about your "Break-in"procedure though, as that's a little hard on bearings. I was "taught" to simply vary the speed, avoid constant speeds, and to "back off and pull some vacuum frequently" which tended to bring fresh oil up to the oil rings. My dad would drive like someone today that is engaged in a cell-phone conversation. He'd drive folks behind him nuts with a newly rebuilt motor. He'd drive 50 or 60, and then coast down to perhaps 30 or so, and then speed-up. He would avoid any sustained wide open speeds for about the first 1000 miles.
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