| pohair | -- 04-05-2010 @ 1:43 PM |
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I am new to V-8 flatheads and just purchased a 38 fordor standard. I believe it came with the 60 hp engine, so I would like to keep it as original as possible. I need to find cylinder sleeves, an oil filler tube and dipstick and tube. Does anyone have an idea where I can obtain the following preferably on the west coast? Also is there a trick to removing and installing these sleeves? Thanks
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-06-2010 @ 5:31 AM |
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In the FORD DEALERS, they had K R WILSON tools for this job, had pullers and a press to install, the press was mainly a treaded rod with special ends the that fitted the sleeves,I guess with a machine shop you could make a similar ends and a treaded rod and make the tool for the job, easier then it sounds, you might want to pick up a KR WILSON REPRO TOOL CATALOG, and they will have pictures of the tools, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN someone else will weigh in,maybe shed more light on it,
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| JTHOMPSON | -- 04-06-2010 @ 7:13 AM |
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Over 30 years ago when my father and I restored a '40 Std. Opera Coupe, we had to install sleeves in an 85 hp engine. They were the thin wall sleeves and were rather difficult to install. What we ended up doing was making a 'plug' to fill the inside of the sleeve out of a hard wood (turned it on a lathe to fit with close tolerances in the cylinder bore) and drilled a hole through the center of that plug. We then took 2 pieces of 1/4" stock, drilled through the center and placed one at the bottom of the cylinder bore and one at the top. Then using a length of 1/2" all thread, put that through the 1/4" stock and plug, securing it at the bottom with a nut, and another nut at the top which we used to 'wind' the sleeve into the block It took quite the effort to do this, the more the sleeve was pushed into the block, the more friction there was. We were going to sleeve all 8 cylinders but ended up only doing the 2 that actually needed it. Engine ran like a charm!
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| TomO | -- 04-06-2010 @ 7:34 AM |
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Try Egge for the sleeves. http://egge.com/ Any competent machine shop can install the sleeves. Tom
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| supereal | -- 04-06-2010 @ 11:00 AM |
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We have had good luck finding V8 60 parts at Little Dearborn. 888/282-2066.
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| Bill Wright | -- 04-06-2010 @ 3:38 PM |
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Mr. Thompson, Your response to the sleeving question was absolutely THE BEST!! You and or your dad must have been a carpenter/cabinet maker/engineer! Your solution to installing the sleeves sounds like something my dad would have come up with. Thank You! I'll be smiling at least the rest of the Day! Bill Don't Believe Everything You Think! Bill Wright
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-06-2010 @ 4:08 PM |
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also when you install the sleeves, put them in the ice box, this will shrink them and then warm the block with a heat gun or hot air electric heater,this will expand the block just a tad, this might help installing the sleeves, the worst thing is getting the sleeve half way in and it gets stuck, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN
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| oldford2 | -- 04-06-2010 @ 5:35 PM |
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To remove the factory sleeves in a 221 I rebuilt. I carefully cut the old sleeves out using an air hammer with a muffler pipe cuttin tool. Went thru each sleeve in a minute and only left a very slight score mark on the cylinder wall. Then a made a puller which my friend turned up on his lathe to install the new sleeves. Then gave the block to a machine shop to hone the new sleeves to fit the pistons I supplied them.I can e-mail a pic if you want. oldford2@verizon.net
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| oldford2 | -- 04-06-2010 @ 5:42 PM |
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I should have mentioned that if your cylinders are 3 1/16" with thin wall (tin can)sleeves (.040 wall thickness), they are not being reproduced. I posted on this swap site and Fordbarn and found a set. These guys have more parts sitting on their shelves that will sell them to help out a fellow Ford person. John
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| JTHOMPSON | -- 04-07-2010 @ 6:56 AM |
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My dad was an electrical engineer and could do just about anything after he put his mind to it. We read the 'procedure' for installing the sleeves. It said to make a block to go in the sleeve bore and with a thick plate on the top to hammer the sleeve in. This was after packing them in dry ice. We didn't have access to dry ice so we had the sleeves in the deep freezer for a few days. We didn't heat the block however... I really think the procedure was for the thick wall sleeves. The thin wall sleeves just peeled over as we tried to hammer them in. That's when we started to put brain power to the process and came up with the procedure to 'turn' them in using the all thread and heavy plates. To get the old sleeves out, we first had to remove the pistons that were rusted in. Big screwdriver and bigger hammer took care of the pistons and also worked on the sleeves...
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| supereal | -- 04-07-2010 @ 8:00 AM |
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If you are going to install and remove cylinder sleeves yourself, buy extras unless you have the correct equipment. Be sure the sleeves have a slight chamfer on the lower outside edge. The outer diameter of the sleeve must be closely matched to the cylinder bore. Sleeves come in various thicknesses, so the clearance between the sleeve and the bore should be no more or less than .0025. Sleeves must be bored or honed to match the pistons, as the inside is only semi finished. Be sure the cylinder wall is free of snags or pits, and lightly oil the surface before inserting the sleeves. Wet sleeves require special treatment so they will seal, top and bottom. In all, sleeving is best left to a competent shop.
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| TomO | -- 04-07-2010 @ 9:16 AM |
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Many home mechanics have installed the thin steel sleeves in the flathead blocks, but with the current limited supply of 60 hp parts and the expense of the parts, I would suggest that you have a machine shop install the sleeves and fit the pistons for you. After all, didn't you buy this car to drive and enjoy? Tom
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