bo8109b | -- 04-04-2010 @ 10:34 AM |
What are the consequences of leaving the ignition key turned on overnight in a '48 Ford other than running down the battery?
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jerry.grayson | -- 04-04-2010 @ 10:54 AM |
If the points are closed it could melt the coil.
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-04-2010 @ 11:08 AM |
Burning the points and coil, most likely one set of points was closed and this will cause the coil and points to burn and overheat the coil.and run the battery down, if the battery is run down, it did this, did the engine restart when you had the battery recharged? worst is that you have to have the coil rebuilt,with the distributer, send to SKIP,and do both, I always disconnect the battery when I am parking storing my 37 or or my MODEL A NEVER NEVER, leave it hooked up, YOU NEVER KNOW, !!! my 3 cents 37 RAGTOPMAN
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supereal | -- 04-04-2010 @ 2:18 PM |
It is a very good idea to install a master battery switch on one of the battery posts, particularly if you are a forgetful geezer like so many of us. They are certainly cheaper than a new coil and points, and insurance against old wiring catching fire and destroying the car and anything else close by, as well as slowing down would-be thieves.
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jerry.grayson | -- 04-04-2010 @ 4:32 PM |
supereal I don't really disagree with your advice on the master switch, but when I aquire a new old Ford the first thing I do is install new wireing. The master switch is just one more thing to corrode and acquire resistance and I don't use them. I do disconnect the ground cable if it is going to sit for a while. JMHO
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supereal | -- 04-05-2010 @ 9:11 AM |
Jerry: I've never had one of the "green knob" switches fail. That may be because I use the Optima batteries which don't leak acid. They are much easier than having to unbolt cable clamps every day. I can't disagree with rewiring, but that is often beyond the skill and ambition of many owners. As Henry Ford apparently didn't have much use for fuses (among other "frills") our old cars are ticking time bombs in many cases.
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Steves46 | -- 04-05-2010 @ 12:09 PM |
I too have an Optima and have been considering getting one of those cut-off switches; small piece of mind. My question is does it matter which terminal the switch goes on? I was thinking for mine that I would use the negative post on my positive ground system.
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lightflyer1 | -- 04-05-2010 @ 8:31 PM |
Any suggestions for installing one of the disconnects on a '35 sedan? The battery cover is very close to the terminals and doesn't seem to be room there for one. I already experienced the results of leaving it on once.
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-06-2010 @ 5:42 AM |
I installed one of the heavy duty flip switches, on a MODEL A TUDOR,between the front seats, it is pretty simple, drilling a hole in the wooded floor board,and just use heavy duty battery cables, you will have to measure,for length of cables,and maybe install ends,by soldering them, these flip switches are I think sold at truck stops, as will in antique car magazines.etc etc this job is worth the PEACE OF MIND,and EASE of USE. I KNOW that owning a car with the battery under the floor boards is not easy to get to the battery every time you want to go for a ride, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN maybe someone else will weigh in with more ideas
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TomO | -- 04-06-2010 @ 7:49 AM |
Like Jerry Grayson, I am not a fan of the disconnect switches, but they are the best option for a car with the battery under the seat. For under the hood batteries, I just unhook the ground cable when I park the car for the night. For my arthritic hands, it is easier to use a wrench than turn a knob. It does not matter which side of the battery is switched off. The switch must be placed in a spot that is convenient to use. The connections to the switch must be good and use a heavier cable than stock on both sides of the switch, because you are increasing the length of the cable. I prefer switching the ground side because an accidental grounding of the connections will not cause a spark. Tom
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johnpoly | -- 04-06-2010 @ 7:58 AM |
I have a '36 and am installing a flip switch under the front seat. One hole drilled in the floor pan will do the job. The cables to the battery will be under the pan. Good luck.
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johnpoly | -- 04-06-2010 @ 8:00 AM |
I have a '36 and am installing a flip switch under the front seat. One hole drilled in the floor pan will do the job. The cables to the battery will be under the pan. Good luck.
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johnpoly | -- 04-06-2010 @ 8:00 AM |
I have a '36 and am installing a flip switch under the front seat. One hole drilled in the floor pan will do the job. The cables to the battery will be under the pan. Good luck.
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wmsteed | -- 04-06-2010 @ 8:41 AM |
In the early 1950's my family was on a fishing trip in the wilds of Idaho. A cousin of mine had just purchased a new 1951 Merc which he drove 65 miles on dirt/gravel roads to where we were camping. The clear cool evenings made for great AM radio reception, so my cousin and I were sitting in his car listening to the radio. In short order my father came to see what we were doing, upon finding us listening to the radio, which required the ignition lock being turned on, my father told us we were going to burn up the ignition... Being smart-ass kids we told the 'old man' that he did not know what he was talking about. When we got ready to head to town at the end of our camp out, my cousins car would not start. Since I have been handy with mechanical issues since I was very young I tried to figure out why the engine would crank, but would not start. When I took off the distributor cap I found that the points were fried. Hmmmmm! the old man was not so dumb after all. I was able to file the points with a fingernail file to clean them up and get some gap... The Merc then started right up and made it to town with no problems. This little mishap taught me to never hook up a radio, or any other accessory to the ignition switch unless the switch had an accessory pole. The early Ford V8 ignition switch's were never intended to handle the current draw of accessories, radios, heaters, etc., therefore hard starting can be a result of poor contact within the switch from burnt contacts. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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supereal | -- 04-06-2010 @ 10:35 AM |
Old Fords have a weak point in the ignition switch. The action of the wiper arm causes a groove to be worn in the switch body. If you have never replaced this part, which is not difficult, you are almost guaranteed that it will fail, probably at the farthest place from home. The cost is less than twenty bucks. Never attach any feeds other than the wire to the coil to the "IGN" post. Use the ACC post for the rest.
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flatheadfan | -- 04-09-2010 @ 5:30 AM |
I have a '35 and have a cut-off switch mounted under the hood. No holes were required, I just used what Henry had available. Another nice thing about this location is the ability to hook-up a battery monitor or if necessary a battery charger without having to deal with the hassle of pulling up the mat to get the cover off and leaving the door open to charge the battery.
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flatheadfan | -- 04-09-2010 @ 5:32 AM |
And another picture....
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TomO | -- 04-09-2010 @ 7:56 AM |
That is a nice, clean installation of a cutoff switch. It looks like the cable on the right is of a lighter gauge than the one on the left. I would use the next heavier gauge cable, from stock weight, when installing a switch. The extra length of the cable and the switch resistance can lead to excessive voltage drop when starting the car. Tom
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flatheadfan | -- 04-09-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
Tom- I see what you are referring to. The two cables are the same gauge 1/0 but they come from different manufactures. Tom
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