| 3949tl | -- 01-12-2017 @ 11:22 AM |
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I found two "Quick Fix" rear axle seals and although they were VERY expensive, I was willing to bite the bullet to save me a lot of work required to replace the inner ones. Now for my problem: The ones I bought are about 1/4" thick and in measuring the assembly, there is no clearance and the inner hub section is pushing hard against the outer seal surface. I see this as a problem as it will cause the hub to be turning against the seal and will quickly wear it away. Can anyone tell me if the thickness of these seals I have may not be correct? On a related note: If I have to replace with original seals, can the axle housings be removed without removing the entire rear end? Thanks
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| supereal | -- 01-12-2017 @ 1:00 PM |
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I'n not familiar with the "quick fix" seals, but from your description I assume they are placed into the axle housing from the outside with enough clearance to prevent rubbing by the hub seal. This would seem to require some sort of driver over the axle end such as a short length of PVC pipe. The stock seals are #4245 and go on the outside of the differential bearing and cup. The cups and the seals are placed with a special tool (BC-302) that I haven't seen in a very long time. I believe is is a KR Wilson tool that only dealerships had. It requireds complete disassembly of the housings. As the gear lash is set by the thickness of the gaskets on either side of the center section (banjo), reassembly requires much time and patience. That is why the seals are seldom replaced unless rear end is taken apart for another reason. Most leakage can be averted by maintaining the oil level below the filler.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 01-12-2017 @ 3:31 PM |
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On the HAMB they listed some repair seals as: Aftermarket repair seals outside axle housing: National 6510S, Fel-Pro 14697, Trostel 36320, Chrysler T905 I have no idea if the list is correct. Is the seal you used one of the above?
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| pauls39coupe | -- 01-12-2017 @ 6:04 PM |
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As Super said the axle housings have to come off. The old seals can then be driven out from the outer end using a hardened pole barn nail, head end first to catch the seal. The nails are about 10" long, are thin enough to fit through the axle opening, and hardened so they won't bend We made a tool for installing the new seal similar to the KR Wilson unit. We used a length of 1/2" gas pipe fixing a large thick washer near the end with about an inch of the pipe protruding beyond the washer. Just slide the seal over the stub end and against the washer, then tap the seal into place from the bell end of the axle housing. The gaskets on the axle bell determines the side clearance of the ring gear, so these must be replaced properly. This is not just a scr*pe the old gaskets off and replace , job. It may be time to replace the gears and bearings while you are going through the trouble.
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