| rsh1950 | -- 01-02-2017 @ 5:27 AM |
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This will be my first water pump installation. Can it be done without removing big things like the radiator? Also, how does the pipe come off that is running from the top of the motor to the bottom. I am talking about the one behind the fan. It looks like some type of exhaust pipe but smaller. I read that these water pumps also funtion as a motor mount and that I will need to jack up the engine about 1". Any pictures and advice would be welcomed. thanks, rsh1950
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| nelsb01 | -- 01-02-2017 @ 6:49 AM |
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Yes, you will have to support the engine. A bottle jack and a small 2x4 work great for this. The more room you have, the better and easier the job will be. You have to drain the cooling system of course. Remove the lower radiator hose, which is not an easy task, but keep wiggling it and bending it. You will also have to remove one of the fan belts. You don't have to remove the exhaust cross-over pipe. Use the bottle jack (and 2x4) at the front of the engine, or any other place that you think will release the pressure of the weight of the engine on the side you are working on. You do not have to raise the engine until you get the last bolt of the water pump lose. There are the bolts you can see and then the one in the middle of the lower hose opening. This one should be stainless steel, but may not be. It can be a challenge. Also now is the time to remove the bolts from the engine mount (large rectangle rubber) that attaches to the side of the water pump. Once removed, make sure that you clean the engine block gasket surface VERY GOOD. This will be important to make sure that the pump doesn't leak after installation. Use a gasket cement for the new gasket. Start a bolt at the top and then the one in the lower hose opening. Then attach the motor mount bolts. From here, it is just reassembly. Good luck. It is not that hard of job. If I missed something -- I am sure that others will offer other thoughts. One more thing--some say that the lower radiator hose goes back on easier if you use vaseline in the hose and on the water pump and lower radiator ends. This message was edited by nelsb01 on 1-2-17 @ 9:59 AM
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| rsh1950 | -- 01-02-2017 @ 12:08 PM |
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nelsbo1 Thanks for you quick and detailed reply. I think I am ready to tackle the job. rsh1950
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| carcrazy | -- 01-02-2017 @ 12:21 PM |
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When I tackled this job on a 1953 V-8 I found that the new lower hoses were 9 inches long. The old lower hoses were 6 inches long. I had to cut the new hoses to the correct length. Getting the new hoses on can be quite a challenge. I used silicone spray and much patience to install them.
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| supereal | -- 01-02-2017 @ 12:44 PM |
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Most replacement radiator hoses are too long as furnished by the vendors. Trim the replacement hoses to the same one as removed. If the old hose doesn't slip off, you will have to cut a slit on the end. Do it carefully, as the brass radiator outlet can be damaged. Just make several slices in the same place until the hose can be twisted off. At our shop we replace both pumps when one is done. It is less costly than doing it twice. We use shot of silicone spray in the hose to help slip it on. Grease will eventually cause the hose to soften and fail. Replace both rubber cushions under the motor mounts, and tighten until you see a slight bulge.
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| JayChicago | -- 01-02-2017 @ 6:24 PM |
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Nelsb01 said: "the one in the middle of the lower hose opening. This one should be stainless steel, but may not be. It can be a challenge." I'm planning to remove the pumps on my stock 1940 this summer, and yeah, I've been worrying about getting that in-the-pump bolt loose. Its been sitting in water for decades. I wonder what the bolt head looks like? And I doubt that I will be so lucky as to find a stainless steel bolt there. Any advise, any tricks, you guys can pass along on how to get that bolt freed-up?
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| cliftford | -- 01-02-2017 @ 7:24 PM |
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If that inside bolt gives you trouble: first, use a 6 point socket. If it rounds out, try a metric socket[6 point] that is slightly smaller than 9/16. If that doesn't work, drill a hole in the bolt head and use an ez out[very carefully, don't break it]
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| rsh1950 | -- 01-03-2017 @ 4:50 AM |
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Thanks for the continued excellent advice. rsh1950
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| Stroker | -- 01-03-2017 @ 11:20 AM |
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"how does the pipe come off that is running from the top of the motor to the bottom. I am talking about the one behind the fan. It looks like some type of exhaust pipe but smaller". rsh: That pipe is the crankcase "draft-tube" that vents the valve chest under the intake manifold to the atmosphere. It is "swedged" into the intake manifold casting but can be GENTLY tapped loose with a soft hammer from below. To re-install, simply tap back in place into the socket in the intake manifold. The top end of the draft tube pipe is slightly tapered to hold it in place. My "favorite" lubricant for hose installations is to wipe the inside of the hose with Go-Joe hand cleaner. Go-Joe is water-soluble and any that gets into the "system" simply turns to soap. BTW, the "slightly smaller" than 9/16th's SIX point socket to use on the "hidden" capscrew inside the lower outlet would be a 14mm. You might have to "tap the socket" over the capscrew head but it will often grip much better on a rusty hex than a 9/16th's SAE socket will. Hope this goes well, it usually DOES.. This message was edited by Stroker on 1-3-17 @ 11:28 AM
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| flathead4rd | -- 01-03-2017 @ 12:20 PM |
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That road draft tube on the front of the engine is two pieces and held together by a clamp that mounts to the engine. I forget where exactly but you need to undo it to get the tube out. Just tapping on the goose neck part of the tube with a rubber mallet and working it back and forth should loosen it. Keep us posted on you progress.
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