| 46coupe | -- 12-29-2016 @ 6:31 AM |
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Replaced the left front hub and brake drum recently and can not get the shoes adjusted without binding when they are contracted inboard. The new shoes worked fine with the old hub and drum. I'm concerned about heat generated from a dragging shoe(s. Should I get the drum checked for roundness or turn it down one or two thousandths? Parts were purchased from Macs and Dennis Carpenter. Any help is appreciated.
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| TomO | -- 12-29-2016 @ 7:06 AM |
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I would remove material from the shoes rather than from the drum. You can use a coarse sandpaper to remove material in the area where the bind is occurring. Be sure to wear a good dust mask and wash the area with water to prevent the dust from becoming airborne. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 12-29-2016 @ 8:20 AM |
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Thanks. I was going to ask about sanding the shoes and forgot. I'll try doing that which would be easier.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 12-29-2016 @ 1:29 PM |
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It is possible that the drum was intentionally undersize to allow a clean up cut after it was installed so a clean up cut wouldn't hurt. Have you measured the drum diameter? If you added your general location to your profile someone might suggest a location to have the shoes arced if you need that service. Going from an oversized drum (which is I assume why you replaced it) to a new drum should require arcing. Charlie Stephens
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| trjford8 | -- 12-29-2016 @ 3:47 PM |
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I usually file the top and bottom edges of new shoes at approximately a 30 degree angle. That should help.
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| 46coupe | -- 12-31-2016 @ 9:48 AM |
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I filed/sanded both ends of both shoes. Not much help. Drum spins when the shoes are closed all the way until they hit a high spot or spots. I'm having the drum checked and turned as suggested. Happens on Tuesday. I'll let you all know how it turns out, (pardon the pun) Happy New Year to everyone. I'll update my profile as well. Live in Tenn.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 12-31-2016 @ 1:16 PM |
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When you have the drums turned be sure it is only a clean up cut. Don't let them turn it to match oversize shoes (if that is your problem), have the shoes arced. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 12-31-16 @ 3:52 PM
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| 46coupe | -- 01-02-2017 @ 1:48 PM |
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What is the procedure for arcing the brake shoes? If needed, I will have to explain to the person doing the job, unless he's old like me? I've never heard of doing this. Every drum brake car I've owned I'd buy the shoes, put them on and they worked, even when I put new drums on. This is the first time I've had so much trouble with new parts and it all started when I went to replace the front wheel bearings:) Too long a story to relate here.
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| 46coupe | -- 01-03-2017 @ 1:29 PM |
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Update: Took the drum to a parts store here and had the drum checked for trueness and hi/low spots. There were 3 high spots found on the drum that I was told were cast into the drum. Drum was turned to eliminate high areas. I just tried the drum and no hi places. I'll adjust the shoes when I have some more time. Should this new drum have come this way? Should I expect to have the next drums I buy checked and turned down like this one was?
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| CharlieStephens | -- 01-03-2017 @ 2:29 PM |
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"What is the procedure for arcing the brake shoes? If needed, I will have to explain to the person doing the job, unless he's old like me? I've never heard of doing this. Every drum brake car I've owned I'd buy the shoes, put them on and they worked, even when I put new drums on. This is the first time I've had so much trouble with new parts and it all started when I went to replace the front wheel bearings:) Too long a story to relate here." There is a machine especially to grind the shoes into the correct shape to mate completely with the drum. These machines produce a lot of dust and the machines need be be modified to catch the dust. This modification is expensive and most shops just got rid of the machines since almost all of the cars today have disc brakes. Most shops today just let you drive with substandard brakes until the shoes wear in. Ask around local clubs to see if anyone has a machine. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 1-3-17 @ 4:04 PM
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| 46coupe | -- 01-04-2017 @ 12:06 PM |
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Thanks for the response. I'll check around with some of the guys in the club. As of now, I put the drum on, compress the shoes all the way in and they still rub. I've sanded leading and trailing edges and where I see rub marks. Not much has helped. I thought the shoes were binding on the back plate so greased the areas where the shoes rubbed. Helped a little. Spring appears to be ok. Cams are working ok. Shoe alignment seems ok, just too much shoe for the drum. I hesitate sanding the shoes any more. Probably will check on arcing the shoes when I return home. Have a great weekend.
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| supereal | -- 01-07-2017 @ 1:42 PM |
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We used a method to find the high spot on the lining. We coated the surface of the lining with the chalk used by carpenters to coat snap strings. Install the hub and drum and have a helper work the brake pedal until you can just turn the drum. Remove the hub and drum and observe the chalk. High spots will be shown as places that the chalk was rubbed off. We used a belt sander, but be careful to remove only small portions before repeating the process. This message was edited by supereal on 1-18-17 @ 11:49 AM
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