| oldflat40 | -- 12-11-2016 @ 6:07 AM |
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59 AB Flathead starts and will run for 10-15 minutes. Will not have spark when you attempt to restart. If you wait a day and do nothing to it, it will fire up and run again for 10-15 mins.
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| carcrazy | -- 12-11-2016 @ 7:13 AM |
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Your coil is shot, replace it with a new one.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-11-2016 @ 7:26 AM |
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Symptoms of a bad coil or a bad ballast resistor This message was edited by trjford8 on 12-11-16 @ 7:28 AM
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| oldflat40 | -- 12-11-2016 @ 1:29 PM |
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We have two new coils. We have changed them each time the motor shuts down. When the other one is put in there is no spark coming from the large coil wire that goes to the distributor (secondary). We leave it alone and it will fire up the next day on the first attempt. It will run for 10-15 mins and shut down.
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| cliftford | -- 12-11-2016 @ 3:42 PM |
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The next time this happens, run a jumper wire between the battery and the batt side of coil. If it starts, you have a problem between these two points, maybe the resistor. If not, you have a problem with the coil, distributor, condenser, or related part. Somewhere there is a poor connection that gets hot and goes open.
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| Greg58 | -- 12-11-2016 @ 4:01 PM |
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That sounds like a condenser problem, it may not be charging up when it gets hot. Greg This message was edited by Greg58 on 12-12-16 @ 3:42 PM
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| oldflat40 | -- 12-12-2016 @ 4:12 AM |
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We have the battery grounded to the block. A lead wire from the battery to the coil. A lead wire from the coil to the condenser and main coil wire to the distributor. Once the motor shuts down we check for spark and there is none. We change the coil and no spark. We have also changed the condenser and no spark. When hooked to the battery there is juice coming off the coil where the two leads are connected but not the main wire (secondary). If we wait, usally overnight. it will fire right up, run 10-15 mins and shut down and have no spark. The battery tests at spec after it runs. The coil(s) test in the specs also. When it runs it rns great and idles with no problem. We have checked and there is no problem with the fuel. Thanks for any helpyou can give as we are stumped!!!
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| cliftford | -- 12-12-2016 @ 4:41 AM |
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How about the distributor? At this point I would remove it and make sure the points and all connections are good. Also look inside the distributor cap and rotor for any defects. No offence, but you've overlooked something. We have all done this at one time or another.
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| oldflat40 | -- 12-12-2016 @ 4:45 AM |
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This is the clamsh*ll type distributor. The only visible thing is that the metal tabs inside the cap look to have small grooves in them where the rotor may have rubbed them at on time.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-12-2016 @ 6:51 AM |
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When the motor shuts down use a jumper wire and bypass the resistor. If it starts and runs you have found the problem.
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| TomO | -- 12-12-2016 @ 8:18 AM |
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First I would like to know if you have the early helmet type distributor or the postwar pancake distributor. Next I would like to know if you are using a period correct coil for the distributor or the later 1949-1955 round coil. In either case, you should connect a volt meter to the input of the coil and crank the engine while watching the meter. It should change from about 6 volts to about 4 volts if you have an external resister. You will have less of a change if you have a coil with an internal resister. Make sure that you coil leads are connected so that the + terminal goes to the distributor. If you have the 1942-1948 distributor, check that the wires are making good connection in the cap and that the wire going from the coil to the distributor is not broken internal to the insulation, by giving it a good tug. If you have the 37-41 distributor, you are probably using an adapter plate on top of the distributor. These can have problems with the connection to the points. You can check out this connection by checking point resistance. Connect the + or red lead to a good ground and the COM or black lead to the coil terminal going to the distributor. Put your meter on the ohms position and read the resistance. It should read open with the points open and 0 ohms with the points closed. With the points closed, wiggle the wires to check for a bad wire and loosen the mounting screws for the adapter plate evenly until the connection is open. You should be able to loosen them enough to free up the lock washer, before the connection shows open. Tom
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| flathead50 | -- 12-13-2016 @ 9:00 PM |
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Sounds to me either the coil or condenser is shorting when the engine is hot. Ken Check
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| oldflat40 | -- 12-18-2016 @ 9:20 AM |
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The coil is wired directly from the battery. So, one lead wire from the batery, one lead from coil to the condenser/distributor and the main coil wire going to the distributor.
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| MG | -- 12-18-2016 @ 2:56 PM |
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Does your coil have an internal resistor?
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| oldflat40 | -- 12-18-2016 @ 5:29 PM |
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Yes it does.
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| MG | -- 12-19-2016 @ 10:37 AM |
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Post some pictures of your setup....
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| supereal | -- 01-02-2017 @ 2:02 PM |
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The last one we fixed was found to have a radiator cap on the gas tank instead of the necessary venter cap. It would run until vacuum buildup in the tank overpowered the fuel pump. When it sat long enough to allow the tank to regain air, it would start and run. The owner swore there was no spark when it happened. It is likely the battery was run down trying to set it restarted to the point any spark was too weak to run the engine. Next time it happens, open the gas cap to see if it fixes the problem. Also inspect the flex line from the carb to the fuel line. Most have a rubber lining inside the woven cover, and can close off when it softens. Not starting when hot is a frequent complaint with old Fords. We put an Amprobe meter on the cable to the starter. If the current to the starter motor exceeds 150 amps. the starter motor is dragging and draining the ignition system. When the starter is hot, resistance rises, further causing the ignition to fail. We have seen starter current demand rise to 600 amps. Many starters haven't been off the engine for decades and have worn brushes and bushings that are worn so far the armature drags on the pole shoes.
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