| 39Fordfan | -- 11-12-2016 @ 11:54 AM |
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I had Skip do my water pumps this Spring and it definitely helped this '39 Deluxe that has always wanted to overheat. It seems the extra flow from the pumps has caused my radiator to leak. Not placing blame, I have no idea how old the radiator is and if maybe it might the root cause of all of this car's cooling issues, anyway? I tried a couple of tall cans of Barr's Leaks aluminum and it helped a bit, but it didn't seal the leak(s.) So my question stems from a local radiator shop who does brass radiators. They would only be able to put in a single core. (Not sure why.) I've never crank started this engine and don't think I ever will. Its a very original car, but not one that will probably ever be judged. If it were your car would you spend the big money to get a dual core brass radiator? Last I looked between $800 and $1300. Or have it re-cored for way cheaper, but with a single core? Is there anything else I am missing? Anything I should know about removing the radiator? Thanks for your thoughts and input!
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-12-2016 @ 12:49 PM |
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You've written of several issues, of which I'd like to address in the order you wrote: 1 - I see no way in which Skips pumps could have any effect on whether your radiator leaks or doesn't leak. Any radiator in good repair can handle an increased flow from the pumps, and for that matter, should also be able to handle a modest increase in pressure. 2 - The radiator, being the primary cooling method in your car, would of course be central to the overheating, but not the only cause of overheating. All water cooled systems can benefit from an internal cleaning of both the radiator and the engine. 3 - Barr's Leak is a good product, which can seal SOME types of leaks, and is good to have handy for an emergency. It does, however, have its limitations, one of which is to cut down the flow, as well as displacing the water from areas that the Barr's settles into. 6 - Your local radiator shop may well be the only game in town, so you need to explore other areas to find an old fashioned radiator REPAIR shop, which can certainly install a new core having multiple rows of tubes. 7 - You've never crank started your car? I have no idea how you start your car, but that would have no bearing on any overheating issue at all. 8 - Now for my input on your options: I would first find a good radiator REPAIR shop, take your car there, have them remove your radiator, back flush your block, rod out your radiator, repair the leak, pressure test it, and re-install. Done deal. If your radiator is of the non pressure type, have them modify it to accept a 4 lb cap. They may need to block off one or more tubes, but the overall job will provide a definite improvement for you. If not good enough, they can also remove the top & bottom tanks and install a new core of correct capacity. Your last option, that of a new reproduction brass radiator, is certainly worthwhile3, but the originality of your car is lost, and your pocketbook takes a big hit also. One cheaper option is aluminum, but in my opinion, should never be considered. Alan
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 11-12-2016 @ 6:04 PM |
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A company named "Brassworks" 805-239-2501 is one of the best. They advertise in the AACA magazine and they sound very knowledgeable. Give them a try.
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| TomO | -- 11-13-2016 @ 8:57 AM |
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Looking at some of your other posts, you said that you lived in Minnesota, so you should check with some of the guys in the Twin Cities Regional Group for a radiator repair shop. They are a great group of guys and very knowledgeable about the early V-8s. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 11-13-2016 @ 1:36 PM |
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Check the fins of the radiator to see if they are brittle and break easy. If so, the core is shot and don't waste money on trying to repair it. When you speak of a single core I'm sure you are not referring to the rows of tubes, but referring to the fact it is not a split core radiator. Be sure to ask the shop how many rows of tubes in the new core. You want at least three and preferably four rows of tubes. Since you are not showing the car I would go for the single core radiator. I have not used Brassworks, but have used Walker Radiator and they seem to be fine. You can get aluminum radiators for your car that are inexpensive , but they are of dubious quality and if they spring a leak in the core they are difficult or impossible to repair. If you check e-Bay there is a person in Alabama (BTR company) that builds copper/brass radiators. I do not know the quality, but they are supposed to be made in the USA. They are cheaper than some of the big name radiators. Also check with US Radiator in Los Angeles and with Speedway Motors as they sell Walker Radiators. This message was edited by trjford8 on 11-13-16 @ 1:42 PM
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| 1934 Ford | -- 11-13-2016 @ 6:22 PM |
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77 years out of the original radiator, call Brassworks or Walker Radiator and be cool again. I did last year in our 35 Buick and have kicked myself ever since for waiting so long. Much better to buy a radiator than an engine. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-14-2016 @ 7:06 AM |
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Wow. This is all terrific stuff. Thank-you all so very much. I've got a lot more to work with now. Alan, you are correct, I would not consider an aluminum radiator in any circumstance. No, sorry to disappoint but I don't even own a proper crank. I've heard too many stories of the men who had to use them getting broken arms or some other disaster. My starter works well for me. And I've had good luck push starting it when that fails. I always appreciate your well reasoned responses which balance practicality with keeping the cars in good original condition.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-14-2016 @ 7:08 AM |
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Thanks for all of the great responses, I will check out all of the vendors mentioned and let you know how it goes! I really enjoy the great knowledge you guys share in this forum. Thanks again! This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 11-14-16 @ 7:10 AM
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| kubes40 | -- 11-14-2016 @ 12:03 PM |
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I think Alan has offered you some very good advice. I have had numerous radiators recored in this area. They have done a fine job each and every time. And yes, split cores every time. Cost is right around $500 but considering the craftsmanship, I feel that a bargain. A good shop can easily replace your cores in the same configuration as authentic. I typically remove both tanks prior to handing the radiator over top the shop. When they are acquiring a "new" core set, I am back in my shop, bumping out the tanks. When I am done, I drop the tanks off, they install them to the new cores and once home (again) I finish the cores to show quality. High flow pumps, as Alan has correctly stated will not cause any damage to your old radiator. They (high volume pumps) also will only serve as a Band-Aid type repair of your cooling issues. Most likely, the radiator is the main culprit here and as such, I would strongly advise a new core. You know - "Do it once, do it correctly". While the radiator is out, you should in my opinion, flush the block as well as you can. You will likely be amazed at how much "yech" will come out of the system. Any and all "yech" removed will ultimatly help.
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