| 39Fordfan | -- 11-12-2016 @ 11:20 AM |
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I've got a '39 Deluxe that will stall under power at lower RPM's after it has been thoroughly warmed up. It starts right back up and seems to run fine after that and only seems to do it once or twice. It only does this when warm, it doesn't do this before running for 20 minutes. Because I am worried about it happening again, I tend to Heel and Toe the throttle and brakes to make sure it keeps running properly. It does want to stall at idle too since it naturally idles at lower RPM's. I usually find ways to goose it keep the RPM's up. Not sure if there is an idle speed adjustment? Another clue or problem is the engine surges at speed. This is not a miss. Its just that when you are driving along at say 30-45 mph on a steady and level road, without modulating the pedal you can feel the power surging up and down. At lower speeds, going around corners, sometimes if you are not quick to hit the clutch this surging can cause you to involuntarily and erratically hit the accelerator and cause the car to buck. I had the the distributor tuned up by Skip, I put in new plugs and a Skip remanned stock coil. It needed these things anyways, but I was hoping the tune-up would help but it didn't. Its got a 91-99 carburetor, a fairly new manual fuel pump with a primer electrical fuel pump. Thank-you for any of your thoughts and ideas.
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-12-2016 @ 1:02 PM |
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My first thought would be to replace your flex line with one from Shewman, who advertises in the V8 Times. He offers twi types, one with a one-way valve, and one without. I'd go with the one without. While doing this may be all you need, replace your fuel filter, which if installed correctly, will be before your electric pump. I would say your mechanical pump may be part of the problem, but only if you didn't have an electric pump. Lastly, your carburetor may need some attention, but my money is on the flex line. EDIT: Yes, you do have an idle adjustment, but do not mess with that at this time, as it will have no effect on your surging, which is the major issue. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 11-12-16 @ 1:04 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 11-12-2016 @ 1:36 PM |
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It could be the hose Alan mentioned # 1 / could 2 nd be the fairly new FP if it came from China (poor quality), Carb on a concours 39 is a 91-99 but made by and is on the side opposite a Chandler-Groves not a ford one. My bet is on the pump or the carb needs work. omo ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-12-2016 @ 3:21 PM |
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Ken, Both Chandler Groves and the Ford logo 91-99 carbs are correct for 1939. And, he has an electric pump, which would flow throw the mechanical regardless of that pumps manufacture. Alan
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| ken ct. | -- 11-12-2016 @ 9:47 PM |
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Sorry to direr with you but late 38's were equipted from the factory with C.G. carbs with no 91-99 designation on them. Then in 39 Ford allowed them to place the # 91-99 on them. 40 was the yr the Ford-Holley versions came out Ford saved according to ledgen $ .05 per carb by switching to Holley. Its been that way for as long as ive been rebuilding Ford carbs like 25 yrs.Ive sold many ,many units to owners of 38 and 39 and these are what they requested. Are all these people wrong. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-12-2016 @ 10:35 PM |
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Ken, I see where I didn't make myself clear: I meant that both the CG 91-99 and the Ford 91-99 are correct for '39. Sorry for the confusion. Alan
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| TomO | -- 11-13-2016 @ 8:37 AM |
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Before replacing any parts, I would do a fuel delivery test to see if it is a fuel delivery problem. If it is not a fuel delivery problem, I would check the float level as too much gas can cause stalling and surging, just as too little gas will also cause it. Next, I would check the spark when warm. If the spark is weak, replace the condenser. To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas. Insufficient fuel delivery can be caused by a vacuum leak on the input to the fuel pump, plugged flex line, worn pivot in the pump arm, stretched diaphragm, plugged fuel line or tank pickup, plugged tank vent or wrong gas cap or a worn push rod. The push rod should be 8 7/8" long for the cast iron manifolds and 7 7/8" for the aluminum manifolds. It travel is about 3/8". Tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-14-2016 @ 7:25 AM |
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Thank-you for all of your responses. I will look into your responses further and keep you posted.
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