| Rustedjunk | -- 10-29-2016 @ 1:27 PM |
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Hi I'm Noel a new member with a 47 Ford Super Deluxe Tudor sedan, member #917609. I'm trying to figure out the thing that is making my 47 Ford (59AB) not run right. The previous owner set my car up a 12V battery running the starter, lights, and aftermarket gauges only. The generator was disconnected by him. The exhaust was cut off by him right under the removable floor pan. My ignition I think is still a 6V system. A regular style ignition coil. I've had the distributor rebuilt. It was later tested by a great guy who's with the Early V8 Ford Club. My plug wires are new, and I am running Motorcraft AL7C / SP473 spark plugs. I have the two horned 46 - 48 distributor which was a pain to put together (would rather have the 42 crab style). I recently put on a different Holley 94 carb because mine was bad. Stripped screws and all. My vacuum with the replacement is now running at 17 and is also connected to the wipers again. With the replacement carb the car idles beautifully. My problem is when I drive it or if I floor the accelerator the engine wants to kill. I have to press the pedal lightly to drive it. When I got the car I could floor it and there was no problems, but it was running with bad 87 gas, the intake vacuum port was freely open, bad plugs and wires, and leaky carb. I am trying to see what I overlooked or am missing. I just wanna drive it to the storage spot before winter. Does anyone know what I should be looking for or what I should do?
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| cliftford | -- 10-29-2016 @ 2:01 PM |
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Given that info. my first is that the accelerator pump is not functioning. With engine stopped.pull the air cleaner , look down the carb throat, pump the foot linkage and see if you see gas squirting into the manifold. if not , look for problems with the acell. pump plunger or a plugged port, and make sure the link on the outside of carb is functioning. you might try adjusting it to a longer stroke
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-29-2016 @ 2:37 PM |
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Noel, Welcome to the Forum! Clift has good advice. While the air cleaner is off, you might see if it acts the same. (You might have too much air restriction.) Other things you describe may need attention also, but do one thing at a time only, or you'll never know what change does or doesn't work. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 10-29-16 @ 2:38 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-29-2016 @ 2:49 PM |
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Noel, from your thread in the Fordbarn, I see you want a new carburetor. You've had the same result from both carbs now, so that pretty much eliminates the carb from the equation. (Besides, a new carb would be prohibitively expensive.) In rethinking your problem, I would say that your fuel pump can't keep up with your needs. This may be from corn fuel damaged pump valves, or corn fuel damaged flex line. You may also be sucking air, which will cut back on fuel delivery. A clogged fuel line or fuel filter can produce the same symptoms also. These are very common issues, to be checked out before spending big bucks on a new carburetor. Alan
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| Rustedjunk | -- 10-29-2016 @ 3:20 PM |
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Thank you for the welcomes. I use only 93 non-oxy fuel. I had the tank remand, all new fuel line from the tank to the fire wall and from pump to carb, and a brand new fuel pump put in.
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| ken ct. | -- 10-29-2016 @ 4:00 PM |
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Your problem could be the quote "new fuel pump" Most if not all NEW pumps are made in China , they have the worst rubber compounds on the planet. That includes the diaphrams and valves in the pumps. You also don't need 93 octane gas. Buy a rebuilt one done here in the USA and you wont need 93 oct. gas. There are some good rebuilders on here and the ford barn who build a quality pump . ken ct.
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| Rustedjunk | -- 10-29-2016 @ 4:28 PM |
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I rebuilt my AC Delco fuel pump and it wasn't pumping. I thought I put it together correctly. As soon as the new one was installed, it fired up after a few tries. The 93 is the only non-oxy fuel we have in Minnesota. The rest is all corn fuel.
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| TomO | -- 10-30-2016 @ 9:37 AM |
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I don't go to the Ford Barn very often, so I don't know if you checked your spark. You said in your post here that you think that you have a 6 volt coil, a 12 volt coil would give you a weak spark. If your spark is OK, start the car and run it at idle for a few minutes, then shut it off and remove the top of the carburetor and check the fuel level. It should be just below the hole going to the accelerator pump reservoir. If it is lower, check the float level adjustment. If it is OK check for fuel delivery to the carburetor. To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas. Insufficient fuel delivery can be caused by a vacuum leak, plugged flex line, worn pivot in the pump arm, stretched diaphragm, plugged fuel line or tank pickup, plugged tank vent or wrong gas cap or a worn push rod. The push rod should be 8 7/8" long for the cast iron manifolds and 7 7/8" for the aluminum manifolds. It travel is about 3/8". Tom
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| Rustedjunk | -- 10-30-2016 @ 2:39 PM |
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I took off the top of the carburetor and the float moves freely. The fuel was just below the the hole.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-30-2016 @ 4:17 PM |
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I agree with Cliff and Tom O that the problem is likely in the accelerator pump circuit or fuel level. Looking down the carb, do you see two good streams of fuel when you work the accelerator linkage? Were either of the Carbs rebuilt, or are they both just old units? It is possible that the power valve is leaking, dumping too much fuel , but that would be a long shot. You mention the vacuum being 17 inches which is on the low side of normal, you may have the timing slightly retarded. The other possibility is that you have some plug wires going to the wrong plug. If the engine is running on 5 or 6 cylinders with two operating against each other, power will be way down It is easy to mix them up with that 46-48 style cap. I'll grant you the crab style cap is easier to wire correctly. Check the carb, and recheck your plug wires.
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| TomO | -- 10-31-2016 @ 8:00 AM |
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Your float level seems to be in the ball park, so I would leave it alone at this time. I went to the Ford Barn and saw that you pulled out the choke and the engine had power. That tells me that you probably have a fuel delivery problem. Perform the check that I gave you in my previous post before you replace parts. This way you will not introduce any new problems. If your fuel delivery is low, I would replace the gasket on the fuel pump sediment bowl and check that all connections on the fuel line are tight. The flex line could also be the problem and if the gasket did not fix the problem, I would replace the flex line. Then I would check the fuel pump and push rod. If these did not fix the problem, get a dwell meter and check the point dwell on the car. Also check the vacuum port on the distributor for the "O" ring seal. Tom
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