| BMora | -- 10-08-2009 @ 8:29 AM |
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1952 Ford F6 with Ford 239 Flathead V8 Symptoms: *BATT Gauge jerks and audibly ticks making a noise like a flasher unit about every 2 - 3 seconds unless battery is disconnected. Doesn't matter if ignition is on or off or if engine is running or not and cannot link the symptom to the on/off state of any accessory. *If headlights are on, the dash board lights only operate for a quick flash while the BATT Gauge is doing it's tick. *If the headlights are on, they noticibly dim while the BATT Gauge ticks. *Brake/Tail lights do not operate at all, visual inspection of wiring looks okay. *No blown fuses. Pease note that the vehicle is not equippted with turn signals and does not have a flasher unit (so thats not where the noise if comming form). Where do I even start to look? Does anyone have wiring diagrams for the Ford F6 Cab?
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| deluxe40 | -- 10-08-2009 @ 9:14 AM |
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Sounds like you have a short that is causing a circuit breaker to open and close. Given that it happens when the ignition is off, it is likely associated with something that has power all of the time like the headlights or the horns. I would look for a circuit breaker on or near the headlight switch or try disconnecting the wire going into the switch and/or the wire going into the horn relay.
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| supereal | -- 10-08-2009 @ 9:41 AM |
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With a circuit diagram in hand, you will have to isolate each circuit until the problem is discovered. As the lighting system seems to be related, I'd start there, of course. Another place to examine is the voltage regulator to see if the cutout relay is clicking. Another typical trouble spot is the dimmer switch and/or the stoplight switch. When we troubleshoot an electrical problem, be disconnect the battery cable and place a voltmeter of trouble light between the cable and the battery while we work. This prevents running the battery down, or in the case of a short, burning up the wires. I suspect a "casual" short to ground somewhere in the lighting system.
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| BMora | -- 10-08-2009 @ 9:46 AM |
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The horn and headlights operate normally. My thought was on the same line as yours in thinking that it is something that has power all the time. Being that my rear lights are not operating at all, I was going to start there. In terms of looking for a circuit breaker, where would it be and what would it look like? I wasn't aware that I had one...
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| BMora | -- 10-08-2009 @ 9:51 AM |
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Being that the tails are not operating properly at all, I was going to start with the brake switch. I hope to be able to spend some time on it this evening and this weekend and get her back on par so she can participate in some of the harvest activities before the first snowflakes dare drop to the ground.
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| supereal | -- 10-08-2009 @ 10:43 AM |
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If you have neither taillights or stoplights, Look for wiring damage between the firewall and the lights. The taillights operate only when the headlights are on, but the stoplights are always energized to the switch on the master cylinder. I don't have a diagram for your '52, but my truck manual shows a circuit breaker mounted on the rear of the instrument panel. It operates by means of a thermostatic switch which, when sensing a short or overload, breaks that circuit, then resets and tries again. One side protects the headlights, the other the rest of the lighting. In your case, it appears that the short is not in the switched headlight side, but in a constantly energized circuit, probably the stop light switch or the wire feeding it. The non-working taillights could be affected by a shorted wire that carries both the tail and stop light feeds. Disconnect the wires to the stoplight switch and seen if that stops the flashing.
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| BMora | -- 10-09-2009 @ 8:30 AM |
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I disconnected the tail lights at the master cylinder and in doing so, saw sparks fly further down the line. A little insulation wore away and was shorting to the truck frame. A little electrical tape (for now) fixed her up and I got tails, brakes, and a properly operating BATT gauge. Thanks so much for all of your input!
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| supereal | -- 10-09-2009 @ 9:23 AM |
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Glad to help. This problem certainly shows the wisdom of installing a master cutoff switch on one of the battery terminals. Most of old car wiring consists of a rubber coating on the wire, covered with a woven cloth jacket. Usually, the rubber has hardened and cracked, and the cloth has deteriorated and fallen away at many points, exposing bare wires to clips or other contact points. If you are lucky, and have a later model with a breaker or fuse, little harm is done. Otherwise, a fire can erupt at any time and destroy your vehicle, along with the place you keep it, even when it is parked or stored.
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| 51f1 | -- 10-10-2009 @ 1:39 PM |
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I realize the problem has been solved, but in case anyone cares, there are 2 circuit breakers inside the dash mounted to the left of the instrument cluster. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 10-11-09 @ 12:29 PM
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| swmddo | -- 10-28-2009 @ 10:34 AM |
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Bob, I got my horn to work, finally, and the gauges all work great. Thanks for your help. However, the battery is still getting fried somehow. Not sure how to test for drain...your note re: voltmeter between battery post and the cable. Do I need to have the meter between the solenoid connection and that terminal? With the meter between the ground-terminal and the battery cable shows no voltage. Or should I be checking the amps?
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| SloPokPete | -- 10-28-2009 @ 2:58 PM |
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You want to be checking for amps. Make sure that your meter has the sufficient capacity before check, to prevent meter damage. Start removing fuses, disconnecting circuits until the current draw is eliminated.
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| swmddo | -- 10-28-2009 @ 3:10 PM |
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Thanks.
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