| Ride75 | -- 03-12-2010 @ 11:33 AM |
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We bought a Ford F-100 sh*ll dated best we can figure between a 49 and 52 but really not sure. There is no title and we are trying to figure out how we can get one. We did find the vin plate on the fire wall. It contains stars, numbers, and letters with a total of 15 characters. The DMV has so far not been able to help us and I am trying to get in touch with the District Inspector. What do we do from here?
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| supereal | -- 03-12-2010 @ 12:54 PM |
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If the data on the plate is readable, I'd post it here for better advice. Most DMV records do not go back that far, and "homeland security" regulations prevent most efforts to track the number. Depending upon your jurisiction, if the plate is riveted to the firewall, and appears genuine, your DMV may allow you to use it to apply for a title, perhaps of the "bonded" variety. From the photo, it looks like it will be a tough and expensive project.
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| Ride75 | -- 03-12-2010 @ 1:20 PM |
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I told my husband he is looking at 20 years and $40k haha. His intention is to restore it with our 4 kids. More of a bonding project I suspect. The plate is covered in paint but I will try to find a year. I was told about the bonding process by a not so helpful state inspector. I have seen on-line where you can buy a rolling chassis with a title. I asked her if we could just put the sh*ll on one of them and use that title and she never would give me an answer. Is this an option?
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| JebNY | -- 03-12-2010 @ 3:16 PM |
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If I'm seeing the raised panels corectly on the bed sides that would narrow the year to 1948, 49, early 50. They switch to flat panels behind the fenders during 1950 production. There is very little to tell those 3 years apart from a photo other than serial number. Some paint pin striping (probably gone) chrome versus painted trim on wind wing frame upright, etc. The 48 had a slightly different variation of the flathead V8 if it is an eight. I think the 6s were pretty much the same. Jim... 1950 F1 Stake
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| trjford8 | -- 03-12-2010 @ 6:39 PM |
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On the F-1 pickup you will find a frame number on top of the right frame rail between the firewall and the front crossmember. This number should match the number on the I.D. plate that is on the inside of the glovebox door or the plate on the firewall.Most states require a frame # for registration purposes. I would not spend any money on this truck unless you can get an ownership certificate. From your photo this looks like a major project that could cost a lot more than the truck is worth. I don't want to discourage anyone from saving an old Ford, but sometimes they may not have enough good parts to be saved. If your husband is a novice at this type of project he needs to talk to people who have had experience in restoring cars. It will help him to keep from making some costly mistakes. This message was edited by trjford8 on 3-12-10 @ 6:59 PM
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| Ride75 | -- 03-13-2010 @ 5:08 AM |
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We are going to work on taking the body off of the frame tomorrow hopefully if the weather stays nice. The plate in the glove box is gone but the one on the fire wall is *98R6*396153*HP. If this means anything I would love to know. We used oven cleaner to get enough paint off to read it. Thanks for everyones help.
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| supereal | -- 03-13-2010 @ 8:59 AM |
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Tom is giving you excellent advice regarding finding finding a more suitable truck or car for your first venture into restoration. Pickups are an excellent first project, and decent examples are still usually priced within reason. We are often asked about this subject at our shop, and we always strongly suggest that a candidate for even the most modest restoration should be drivable when bought, and with a clear, verifiable, title included. That way, if you lose interest or find yourself in over your head in the money or skill department, you should be able to recover some of the cost.
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| 51f1 | -- 03-13-2010 @ 2:27 PM |
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*98R6*396153*HP That's probably 98RC. The 9 indicates a '49 model. The 8RC indicates an F-1 with a 239 8-cylinder engine, however, the same designation was continued into 1951, so it could be a '49, '50, or early '51 model. Although most literature claims that the change-over to the later model numbers occurred on September 15, 1951, many of us with trucks manufactured early in calender year 1951 have the later style model number, e.g., *F1R1SR18046*. Someone who has the serial numbers by year could tell you in which year it was actually built. Sometimes, the number stamped into the cowl has the date built. That depends upon where it was made. The cowl numbers are inconsistent from plant to plant. Richard
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| trjford8 | -- 03-13-2010 @ 4:58 PM |
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If you can find the frame number on the top of the right side frame rail I have a book that can interpret the #. This would be the most accurate way to determine the specifics of your truck. If you are trying to get paper work on the truck most states require a frame number.
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| Norm | -- 03-13-2010 @ 5:59 PM |
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I have a '48 F-1 which is, of course, the same as '49 and '50. My VIN is on a metal tag on the inside of the glove box door. Norm
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| 51f1 | -- 03-14-2010 @ 4:25 PM |
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There are 2 plates that have the "engine number", one in the glove box and one on the right firewall inside the engine compartment (the patent data plate). These should agree with the number stamped on top of the frame rail to the right of the engine. The engine number was stamped on the patent data plate at the engine plant and was temporarily attached to the engine. At the assembly plant, this number was also stamped on the plate that is inside the glove box and on the the frame rail when the engine was placed in the truck and with the appropriate prefix to indicate the truck model and engine type, 98RC in this case. If you look closely at the patent data plate inside the engine compartment you may notice that the prefix doesn't line up with the engine number because they were stamped at different times. This "engine number" with the prefix will have to do for your VIN, as there were no other "official" numbers affixed to the vehicle. Look for the number stamped in the center of the cowl in the engine compartment. This could reveal the build date. If you can't interpret this number, post it, and someone will do it for you. As I said in a previous post, not all trucks have a number stamped in the cowl or the data may not include the build date as it was optional with the assembly plant. For that reason, these numbers should not be used as a VIN. This cowl number may also contain the original paint code. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 3-14-10 @ 4:50 PM
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| JebNY | -- 03-14-2010 @ 6:12 PM |
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I have read other places that the engine number on at least the 1948-50 did not match the number on the firewall or glovebox from the factory. Jim... 1950 F1 Stake
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| supereal | -- 03-15-2010 @ 8:15 AM |
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The engine, with stamped number, was likely changed out long ago. If you have an original body plate, it was probably used as the vehicle ID for registration. Until the "official" VIN system came into use, manufacturers each had a different method, in most cases. Ford, in particular, didn't seem to attach much importance to the need for numbers. After all, who expected these cars and trucks to still be running, some almost a century old?
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| 51f1 | -- 03-15-2010 @ 12:35 PM |
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There were no engine numbers stamped on the '48-'53 8RT or the '49-'53 8BA engines. Richard
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| Ride75 | -- 03-16-2010 @ 10:28 AM |
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Here is where we are so far. The plate in the glove box is gone. There is nothing under the hood but the ground. There is no plate in the cowl and does not look like there ever was. I took a long shot and called DMV and had them run the number on the plate rivited to the firewall. It turned up nothing. We can't see anything on the frame yet but are working on that. I called the District Inspectors in Charlotte and they told me we can get a title but there is a process we have to go through. We will have to have it bonded, take it to their office and they will inspect it, take photos and run the frame number for its history. (theft and such) Everything would then be e-mailed to Raleigh and then we would be issued an official title. Supposed to be a 6 to 8 week process. Please keep the tips coming. They are very helpful.
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| Norm | -- 03-16-2010 @ 4:34 PM |
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Sorry you don't live in Maine!! No titles required for vehicles over 25 years old!! Norm
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| Norm | -- 03-16-2010 @ 4:36 PM |
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Sorry you don't live in Maine!! No titles required for vehicles over 25 years old!! Norm
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| 51f1 | -- 03-25-2010 @ 4:01 PM |
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The only number riveted to the firewall should be on the patent data plate. If that is what you are referring to, that is your "VIN." Your DMV may not have it because the truck has not been registered for a number of years. There was no record of my engine number when I re-registered my truck after a lengthy restoration. There was no plate riveted to the cowl. The number referred to was stamped directly into the center of the cowl. This is not a VIN. It was for internal factory use only. Sometimes this number can reveal the build date and paint color. The number you posted, *98RC*396153*HP, is an "engine number" (VIN) for a '49-'50/'51 model. Too bad you don't live in Georgia. Titles are not required for the old stuff and the DOT will not issue one. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 4-7-10 @ 4:38 PM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-10-2010 @ 8:19 AM |
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Getting a title is a project,depending what STATE you are in, CAL,NJ I know are very tough on getting titles. I saw the picture, that truck needs a lot of elbow grease,and MONEY put into it, if you HAVE THE TIME,and a place to work and are up to a challenge GO FOR IT, you could go the buying a chassis with a title,might be cheaper and faster in the long run, and use your body and parts for the restoration, you are going to have to do the chassis anyhow,and can always SELL your old one. hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-14-10 @ 7:01 AM
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