| shad9876 | -- 12-24-2013 @ 9:30 PM |
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My grandpa gave me this '39 Ford Truck and I am looking for additional information on it. It has the original V8 Flathead and I believe just about everything else is original. I am planning on building a car hauler bed for it but would like to keep it mostly original. A few questions I have: Wheel bolt pattern? Rim diameter/width? Tonnage? 1 ton, 1 1/2 ton? Model? It has 85 embossed on the Ford emblem on the hood but in my research, the 85 does not appear to be unique to this truck/model. Are there disc brake conversion kits for these larger trucks? Any additional info any of you guys ave would be greatly appreciated! I am about 750 miles away from the truck until next week when I go to visit my grandpa. This message was edited by shad9876 on 12-24-13 @ 9:43 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 12-25-2013 @ 4:14 AM |
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You want to measure the wheel base. 134" "Stake" or "platform", 157" Stake or Platform all four came with either 85 or 95HP. Both of these wheel base trucks were also available without the bed (just frame).
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-25-2013 @ 12:02 PM |
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Shad, I very much respect your desire to keep everything as original as possible, but for your stated objective to build a car hauler, you might consider looking at your grandfathers truck as a very straight original cab to be installed on a modern truck hauler frame and running gear. The result will be a well engineered working truck married to your family history in a great looking cab. This is the first and possibly the last time I'll advice to modify as opposed to restore or preserve a vehicle, but given the stated objective, it seems the only reasonable way to go. By the time you convert running gear and suspension from the original truck to something capable of doing the job you envision, you'll have invested too much time and money for the results attainable: An 85 HP Ford flathead is considerably undersized for your needs, your gearing won't make highway speed today, your wheels may be of the widowmaker type, for which no shop will work on for safety reasons, you would need power steering and brakes and an upgraded suspension, leaving only the original frame to work with. I hate to say it, but you may not be able to find someone who needs the rest of the truck, but by parting out the engine, you can help finance your project. Good luck and Merry Christmas! Alan
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| shad9876 | -- 12-26-2013 @ 6:21 PM |
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Thanks for the info and advice!! Wow, I didn't realize this particular engine would only produce 85-90hp. That would be pretty anemic for hauling its own weight let alone the weight of another car. I have completed a resto-mod on a '56 Chevy sedan using C4 vette suspension and an LS1 and it sounds like this project would be best suited to go in a similar direction. From your experiences are there particular late model truck chassis that fit better than others under these types of trucks. Also, could you elaborate on the "widowmaker type" wheels? I haven't had a chance to check out the engine yet but was told it was driven to its current resting place. I'm hopeful since it is in a dry environment (SW KS) and the engine is complete and intact (no open spark plug holes or exposed carb, etc...). Are there certain flathead models that are more sought after than others? I apologize for my ignorance. This is my first Ford to work on (other than a '68 Mustang I worked on with my brother about 12 years ago). If you can't shoot it, paint it or rebuild it, you probably won't be interested in it. -My wife
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-26-2013 @ 7:10 PM |
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Shad, it appears that your engine is not original to your truck. It is a 59-AB, which was post war, and is considered the most desirable of the Ford Flatheads. Make sure it finds a good home. The Widowmaker wheel rim, as the nickname implies, is dangerous to work on by inexperienced or daydreaming tire shop workers. Having a removable ring at the edge, the ring must be perfectly centered or it can fly off at a killer speed when the tire is inflated. I'm not familiar with the years these wee used, but you can look at your rims to see if they have that removeable ring at the tire bead. Alan
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| supereal | -- 12-26-2013 @ 9:03 PM |
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I agree with Alan's advice. Our shop has built car haulers and other truck based vehicles using old cabs and front clips. For a car hauler, your best bet is probably a "tonner" chassis with dual rear wheels. These are work trucks, and most large salvage yards have some. Our latest conversion project was installing a 305 V8, complete with automatic, in a Ford Econoline pickup. Time permitting, I'll post some photos. Any projects of this type require attention to the brakes and suspension systems to be road worthy and safe.
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| shad9876 | -- 12-28-2013 @ 7:36 AM |
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Thanks for all the info guys! Good news on the A-59! I'll check on the wheel design. I'm going to be in Kansas this week spending some time with my grandpa and plan to pull the engine. I've pulled a few Chevy engines but the only Ford engine I've pulled is a 2003 6.0 diesel. Any special tools (or advice) required to pull a flathead? If you can't shoot it, paint it or rebuild it, you probably won't be interested in it. -My wife
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| trjford8 | -- 12-28-2013 @ 7:51 AM |
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Just a word of caution. If you pull the motor do not put it on a standard type engine stand. There is a big potential to possibly break the cast bellhousing on the engine which renders the motor useless.
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-28-2013 @ 10:51 AM |
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No special tools, just common sense and a cherry picker. With the end goal in mind, you'd do well by leaving the engine alone and carefully remove the radiator and sheet metal first. Alan
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| Stroker | -- 12-28-2013 @ 4:46 PM |
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Shad: You've been given some really good advice, and thanks to your great photo's us old folk can evaluate to a degree what you have lurking under that vintage hood. To me, it appears that your 39 has had a typical upgrade, wherein the motor was swapped-out for a "state of the art" 59A probably sometime in the late 40's. They used contemporary dual-belt truck front accessory drive goodies, oil bath air cleaner, etc. If it was me, I'd keep all the under hood contents in one place, as while none of us can attest to the internal condition of the motor, it appears that no one has been "scr*w*ng" with it since it was parked. Some of that stuff is hard to find, and not available as repop items.
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| rotorwrench | -- 12-30-2013 @ 4:21 PM |
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Being from southwest Kansas myself, I'm remembering how many blocks were cracked during the harsh winters that can blow down from the north. Flat country with few trees doesn't afford much natural protection. Take a good look in the cooling system & see how much and what type of coolant is still in there. If you have a good green color of anti-freeze or a completely drained block then there is a good chance that the old motor is still crack free. The 59A is normally 239 cubic inch and rated at 100-HP so it was a natural replacement for the earlier 221 blocks. There were 221 replacement blocks manufactured in the 59A era too (41A) and they also carry the 59A cast marks so it could be either way. These old blocks are getting more valuable so it could be good trading material for a modernization or a good engine for keeping more original.
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| 1952HENRY | -- 01-24-2014 @ 6:58 PM |
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The wheel Alan is describing is not a widowmaker. A wm is a two piece rim (aka split rim) which "locks" together between the beads, near the center section. He is describing a split ring (sometimes a continuous ring). Provided the rim and ring are in good shape, ANY tire shop will work on them. There are millions of these rims still out on the road. I believe a '38 Regular would have the split ring. This message was edited by 1952HENRY on 1-25-14 @ 3:11 AM
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