| oldgrayman | -- 08-27-2013 @ 12:25 PM |
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My flathead is very tight after the recent rebuild. With the plugs out and the trans in neutral, I can turn it over with a wrench on the crank nut, but the new 6 volt starter will not turn it over even when I hit it with 12 volts. An old 12v start from an early 50s Merc will turn it over, but the battery runs down after about 5 sec of cranking. Does anyone make a high torque 6v starter? Other than converting to a 12v system or push starting it, does anyone have suggestions of how to get the beast started so I can let it run and soften up a bit? I have faith that the rebuild was done correctly and don't think that the mains were over torqued, etc.
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| carcrazy | -- 08-27-2013 @ 4:11 PM |
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Once you have primed the oil pump and internal oil lines with oil, you can try using starting fluid to try to get the engine to start instantly. Once running on it's own, it will soon loosen up. Are you sure all of the bearing clearances are adequate? How much torque does it take to turn the engine over manually? Keep us posted of your progress.
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| supereal | -- 08-27-2013 @ 6:23 PM |
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A good guess it that the engine rebuilder may have used incorrect clearances . There are many critical points. Rod bearings, main bearing, piston and ring gaps come to mind. If you can't turn it over with the compression released, it is likely that trying to start it will result in the destruction of the engine. I'd return it to the rebuilder for an explanation.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 08-28-2013 @ 11:28 AM |
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I agree with supereal, if you start your engine and things start to go south it's your problem. At the very least I would let your rebuilder know what's going on and even have him with you when you try to start it. If he says "start it and I will guarantee it" it's on him. If it's that tight, oil might not get to where it's meant to and goodby engine. I know it's a lot of work to pull your motor, but if you toast it you will have to remove it anyway, sorry for your trouble.
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| TomO | -- 09-01-2013 @ 9:19 AM |
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There may also be a problem with the starter or the cable leading to the starter. Are you sure that you have the correct battery cable and cable from the solenoid to the starter? I ask this because the 12 volt starter turns over the engine. Are the end plate of the starter and the mounting surface on the oil pan free of paint, so the starter can get a good ground? If those are OK, get the re-builder involved. Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-01-2013 @ 3:58 PM |
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If the engine was assembled without the use of a good prelube, it can be tough to turn over, and may shuck a bearing insert in the process. It requires a lot of power for the starter, anyway, and a very tight engine for it to fail. If hitting a 6 volt starter with 12 volts didn't budge it, it is more than probable that the engine was not assembled correctly.
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| supereal | -- 09-01-2013 @ 3:58 PM |
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If the engine was assembled without the use of a good prelube, it can be tough to turn over, and may shuck a bearing insert in the process. It requires a lot of power for the starter, anyway, and a very tight engine for it to fail. If hitting a 6 volt starter with 12 volts didn't budge it, it is more than probable that the engine was not assembled correctly.
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| shogun1940 | -- 09-25-2013 @ 3:42 PM |
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what new parts did he put in? did he plastigage the new bearings, did he clean out the ring grooves . there are lot of things that will cause a tight engine. have the rebuilder start it. then its his problem
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| dmoe754 | -- 12-13-2014 @ 7:51 AM |
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had the same problem.Is the new started a ford product? after two weeks trying to start the emngine with a new 4 brush aftrer market unit I put my old Ford starter bck in , a 3 brush unit, and the engine started at two revolutions. Im still having problems with the bendix jambing on the flywheel though.
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| TomO | -- 12-15-2014 @ 8:31 AM |
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The original type Bendix drive should not stick if it is cleaned of all oil and debris and the starter is mounted tightly to to the oil pan and the bracket to hold the back of the starter up is installed. What year engine are you working on? Tom
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| dmoe754 | -- 12-15-2014 @ 9:40 AM |
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it's a 1946 59L canadian block. I've decided to buy a new bendix as the one in the truck I made out of several old ones. Note that the new style bendix out in the market place will not fix mercury/ canadian engins
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