| 37coop | -- 03-31-2013 @ 12:43 PM |
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h*llo ,just a quick question ,3 days ago i collected my 51 1/2 ton f.1 from the docks here in the u.k from illinois,i will need to send to the usa for a few parts ,the engine is an 8BA ,is that the correct engine? i,m sure i will be using the excellent forum in the near future regarding my new purchase(and very nice it is too.) thanks.
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| Big Red 51 | -- 04-01-2013 @ 6:21 AM |
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37, Technically the correct engine number is 8RT for the F-1, however, it is basically the same as the 8BA except water pumps and oil pan. My '51 has an 8BA and does quite well. Order any engine parts for the 8BA and you will be okay. Good luck, Don
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| 37coop | -- 04-01-2013 @ 11:41 AM |
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thanks don,i have got a 39 coupe which i,v had 23 years and was sort of expecting the truck to be more similar,the truck is negative earth and the rear brake hubs i,m not sure if a puller is required or not ,it hasnt the same end of axle to connect to a puller as the 39, is there a workshop type manual i can buy ,i have a service book for the 49/50 f.1 but that doesnt tell me much.i had a 50 f.1 about 20 years ago and sold it many years ago and i forgot how little room between my stomach and the steering wheel there is ,a little bit of weight has been put on since the 50 was sold , thanks again , jim.
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| Big Red 51 | -- 04-01-2013 @ 5:25 PM |
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Jim, you really need a Shop Manual. Most parts houses have them. Dennis Carpenter has the 1949 thru 1952 Manual for $35. I will try to attach a picture. This Manual will be a big help in doing most maintenance work. Good Luck Don
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| bonusbuilt1950 | -- 04-02-2013 @ 7:23 AM |
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By all means, get a shop manual. The rear drums slide off. You may have adjust the star wheel inside the drum to remove the drum. On the back side of the backing plate at the bottom is a acess slot. It should have a rubber plug that you remove. If you look in that slot, you'll see a star wheel. looks like it has teeth. You have to turn it one way (up or down ) or the other to make it move the shoes in. One side goes up, the other goes down. There is also a lever that lays against the star wheel to keep the shoes where you adjust them to. The tool you use is called a brake spoon. It's flat on the ends, but one end has a bigger curve to the body. You can use a flat blade screw driver in a pinch. Try just pulling the drum off first before you go to all this trouble, it may come off. THe fronts are similar brakes, but you have to remove the outer bearings in the hub first. Get the shop manual before you work on the truck, you'll be glad you did!You can also update these brakes by getting self adjuster kits that will automatically keep the shoes adjusted every time you back up and apply the brakes. I have them installed on my 50 F-1. You can probably do this for under $50.00usd for all 4 wheels. Barry 50 F-1
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| 37coop | -- 04-02-2013 @ 12:09 PM |
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thanks folks,the manual is obviously a must and i need a few bits so i will add that to my list .,its up on axle stands at the moment ,over here in the u.k the vehicle has to be tested for safety and everything must work to their standards before it can be registered in my name and used on our roads ,the handbrake is useless and partly siezed,no horn/hooter and a few other small jobs ,its pretty original and solid and i,m looking forward to using it ,thanks again and i,m sure i will be asking more questions . jim.
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| TomO | -- 04-03-2013 @ 6:56 AM |
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Where are you located in the UK? I will be over there in May. Tom
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