Topic: realistic idle for 239 w fordomatic?


bkewin    -- 04-26-2012 @ 1:16 PM
  Hi folks,
been making slow but steady progress on the 53 f100.
got a carb rebuild which took care of a few little issues, like rocking and rolling the whole truck at idle, and a blip in the vacuum guage. (my old vacuum guage was lying to me by 10 inches, but the blip was legit) maybe I had a vacuum leak that popping the carb on and off cleaned up.
I turned the idle speed screw out so it wasn't in the picture. cold, I turned the idle mix screws all the way in and backed them out a complete turn. full choke start and once warmed up put the choke in and did the routine of scr*w*ng the idle mix in till she stumbled and back out to smooth. repeated on both sides.
she starts and runs pretty smoothly. I set the idle speed to 425 with my 20 dollar 12v dwell tach but she was stalling at stop signs so I increased the idle a bit. My question is, "how important is the 425 idle rpm"? I'm waiting on my mail order timing light and remote starter switch. but mostly starting and running like she does the timing can't be that far off. Sometimes she idles with 14inches of vacuum and others 16. Seems like if she is warm, there is less idle vacuum.

well, Thanks,

Bill


supereal    -- 04-27-2012 @ 10:09 AM
  Bill: The ideal idle speed is given in my manuals as 415-425 for 8 cylinder trucks, and 450-460 for the sixes. That is a bit slow, compared to manual transmission trucks, which we customarily set at or above 500 rpm at idle. The lower speed was to prevent creep and harsh engagements and shifts with the automatic. In order to reduce stalling, the system requires a "dashpot" that slowly allows the throttle to return to idle. If your truck doesn't have one, or yours is weak, that is the likely reason it stalls at stop signs


TomO    -- 04-27-2012 @ 10:35 AM
  I agree with Supereal as the dashpot might be the culprit. Your timing could also be off and that is why you are getting such low vacuum readings. You should be able to set the idle at 450 without having excessive creep.

Plug all vacuum connections and recheck your vacuum. If it is still low, check for leaks around the carburetor. If there are no vacuum leaks, mark the distributor position and try adjusting the timing a little while reading the vacuum gauge for the highest reading and then back off the timing slightly (About 1 degree). Reconnect your vacuum hoses and give it a try.

Tom


bkewin    -- 04-27-2012 @ 12:33 PM
  you fellows are the best. I sure appreciate the advice. I'll give that vacuum timing hint tonight.
Thanks again

Bill


alanwoodieman    -- 04-29-2012 @ 7:26 PM
  look to see if your trans has a throttle rod going from the eccelerator linkage back to the trans-if it does adjust this length. The trans is still "in gear" and will try to creep if this has not been set correctly and will also affect the idle speed


bkewin    -- 04-30-2012 @ 9:50 AM
  Oh Joy. I have noticed this creeping I think.
Did the u-joints over the weekend and neglected everything else. I'm waiting for an extension housing seal before i button everything up. I've got a little rust on the drive shaft yoke. While I think this will do for a while, if it eats seals, is there a source for replacements out there?

Thanks.


TomO    -- 05-01-2012 @ 7:48 AM
  Try polishing the drive shaft yoke with emery paper followed by crocus cloth. If you have lots of deep pits, look for another yoke.

Tom


bkewin    -- 05-02-2012 @ 1:02 PM
  That's kind of funny, I sanded and oiled and sanded for about 30 minutes and saw a bit of crocus cloth hanging out of my sanding odds and ends drawer. I can't remember how it came to be there but it worked a treat. Couple of tiny pits in a ring and two or three nicks from some careless so and so with a hammer up close to the knuckle.
Thanks for the input.



supereal    -- 05-02-2012 @ 2:33 PM
  The seals are available. The outside diameter should be 2.376 for your pickup. A later type, beginning in '56, mweasures 2.509 OD. Be sure to use the correct driver when installing them. Almost all extension housing seals seep a bit. This keeps the shank of the yoke lubed as it moves on the shaft. A badly worn yoke will show a pronounced wear ring that can't be polished away.


bkewin    -- 05-03-2012 @ 6:30 AM
  I'm having a hrd time finding any special tools for the extension housing seal. I found an extension housing bushing tool for an aod, is there anyplace that carries either of these? my online searches are coming up dry.
Napa has the seals and the bushing should it come to that, but not finding tools.

Thanks,

bill


bkewin    -- 05-06-2012 @ 5:59 AM
  anyhow, I used a 8" 2x4 with a hole drilled in it to accommodate the tail shaft, and a mallet, for the seal installer tool, and grandads old chisel that won't hold an edge no matter what, for the extractor. everything seems to be holding fluid. New ujoints but still get an upshift clunk. some suggest packing the yoke with grease?
I read somewhere that grease. that eats tranny fluid.
once again, thanks for the help. I tackle the timing today.


supereal    -- 05-06-2012 @ 10:09 AM
  The authentic tool for pulling the extension seal is a puller that hooks inside the seal, and is actuated with the slide hammer of the device. Any way, such as your chisel, that gets it out without damaging the housing, is OK. For those without a seal driver set, a good substitute is a PVC pipe couplng. Take the seal with you to a hardware store or home center and choose a coupling that matches the outer rim of the seal. This trick works on other places, such as grease seals in wheel hubs. After starting the seal, place the coupling over it, and with a hammer and small wooden block, drive the seal into place. As for driveline clunking, it is usually caused by worn splines in the yoke. Old style yokes had a grease fitting, but most modern yokes don't. Packing them with grease usually doesn't cure the problem for long If a u-joint has slack, it must be replaced.


bkewin    -- 05-06-2012 @ 6:09 PM
  Thanks, I'll remember the pvc tool. Also, advanced my timing to the point of pinging on my test drive. backed it off a bit as advised by a degree or so. Old gal has never stepped so lively since I've known her. Vacuum didn't come up much but the only fuel smell after a drive is the alcohol smell that comes off my newer cars as well. Also my top end before was 70 down hill. I hit 75 on a long bridge near here and she had more to give.
Thanks all. you are helping to grow fond of this truck.
Bill


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