| PeterFord | -- 08-15-2011 @ 3:50 PM |
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I have a 1951 Ford F1 pickup. I had an electrical failure three weeks age that I traced to a bad starter solenoid. I bought a new one at Advance Parts. It did not work. Advance told me to bring in my starter for testing. I did. They said it was too old for them to test. They sent me to NAPA who tested it and said it was perfectly alright. NAPA said the solenoid Advance specified was wrong. Looked the same but was wired differently inside. They sold me another one and it worked. Tonight, three weeks later, the thing appears to have failed again. Can't start it. The solenoid just whimpers like the one that failed. My plan is to go to NAPA tomorrow and get another one. But is there something I am doing wrong? My truck is 12 volt. NAPA said the one they sold me can take 12 volts. Are they all the same, 12v and 6v, interchangeable? What makes them fail? Peter
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-15-2011 @ 5:01 PM |
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Peter, have you ever heard the saying 'It never rains but it pours" ? Before you blame the solenoid again, consider that you may have a problem with your battery. When's the last time you replaced your battery, and is your charging system in good shape? A solenoid that just "whimpers" is a clue that you have a dead battery. Is it raining? Alan
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| PeterFord | -- 08-15-2011 @ 5:58 PM |
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Alan: Thanks for the reply. The first time this happened (three weeks ago) I went thru the rule-out process. I replaced the battery, the starting button, several wires, as well as having the starting motor tested. Somehow, I think the solenoid, or something associated with it ... I can't imagine what) is the culprit. Any thoughts? Peter
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| shogun1940 | -- 08-15-2011 @ 6:24 PM |
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its possible that the solenoid is bad, the average draw on old v8s were 220to 250 amps , the voltage drop from one side of a conn. should not be more than .2volts.. check the battery voltage all the way down to the starter. check your grounds bat voltage should not drop below 9.6v when your cranking it over good luck
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| 51f1 | -- 08-15-2011 @ 7:13 PM |
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Jump across the battery terminals on the solenoid with a pair of pliers (the handles). If the problem is the solenoid, the starter will turn. There were two different solenoids used around 1950-1951. One of the solenoids receives power from the starter switch to activate and is grounded to the firewall through the mounting screws. The other receives power directly from the battery and is grounded through the starter switch. Be sure your new solenoid is the right one. You can look at your starter switch to determine which one you need. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 8-28-11 @ 3:20 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 08-15-2011 @ 8:02 PM |
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Check all your grounds. You should have a ground from the battery to the frame, from the body to the frame, and from the engine to the frame. Many times poor grounding will cause a solenoid to act like it has failed. Make sure the solenoid has a good ground to the body(firewall) in addition to the other grounds. I suspect that your truck was converted to 12 volts because of a poor starting issue. Almost always the poor starting issue is poor grounding on a 6 volt , so people go to 12 volt in hopes to cure the problem. Grounding is grounding whether it is 6 or 12.
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| supereal | -- 08-16-2011 @ 10:59 AM |
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Most of the solenoids sold today are of the "universal" type with both ends of the coil brought out to the pair of small terminals. For an old Ford using a grounding starter button, one terminal is connected to the button, the other to the battery (not starter) side of the solenoid. If your vehicle provides voltage via a button or key, one side goes there, the other to a good ground. We see a lot of defective new parts at our shop but, from your description, I'd look for a bad cable end, starting from each side of the battery. Be sure you have a ground strap to both the body of the car, and the engine. As Richard points out, if jumping the two big solenoid tterminals allows the engine to crank, you do have a solenoid problem. If you do jump it, be sure to wear gloves, as the amperage draw can produce a lot of heat instantly. And, the solenoid must be rated for the voltage used. If the solenoid did fail, they probably sold you a six volt type for your 12 volt truck, assuming it was still stock six volts. It wouldn't take long to burn up the relay coil. This message was edited by supereal on 8-16-11 @ 1:07 PM
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