| |
Alan: sound like you are making progress. I don't know of any authoritative source on cable brake adjusting. It was only used for two years, so it may not command enough attention. The few times we have done it, we first made sure that the wedges and linkage at each wheel were free and not badly worn, and the linings were in good condition. The cables and housings need to be checked to be sure they move without binding, and the cross shaft bushings are without excess play. Back off he adjusters at the drums all the way, then using the clevises at the cross shaft end of the cables, adjust the length until the linings just touch the drums, no more, This will equalize the cables. Then, block down the brake pedal about half way, and adjust the each wheel until the drum can't be turned. Remove the block from the pedal and see that the drums can be turned. If not, adjust the rod between the pedal and the cross shaft until they can be turned. This will allow the cables to stay equalized. If you have problems, it is likely that the wedges and/or the adjuster studs are worn. We have had to repair wedges by welding on material, then filing them to fit, as replacements are hard to find.
|