| kcorrill | -- 10-21-2010 @ 5:29 PM |
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the brake wedge on my 37 has a notch on each side for the pins to ride again. one side has a larger concave that lets the pin ride deeper and the other side holds the pin out about 1/8 to 3/16 more. which gose toward the primary side?
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| supereal | -- 10-22-2010 @ 9:40 AM |
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The primary (front) shoe should contact the drum first. The wedge is clearly shown on page 30 of the "green book".
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| kcorrill | -- 10-22-2010 @ 11:17 AM |
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o.k what i need to know is the ajusting wedge has a deep side and a shallow side,dose the deep side go toward the primary or the secondary side.
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| supereal | -- 10-24-2010 @ 10:56 AM |
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It has been too long since I've seen the inside of '37 brakes. My suggestion is to assemble it and see which way pushes the forward shoe first. Thanks to a digital camera, I always document "which goes where". My septuagenarian memory just "ain't like it used to be".
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-24-2010 @ 11:53 AM |
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Kcorrill, I don't remember grooves on my '38 wedges, which is the same as a '37, but don't expect them to perform well in any case. Best to convert to floaters, which does away with the wedge altogether. It's a simple conversion, and you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results, which give you dependable brakes as good or better than any of the early juice brakes. The floater instructions do not go further than the installation itself, but I have a couple of pointers for you: If you take your wedges to a cut-off wheel, you'll have the exterior adjuster head to replace as a dust cover and the installation will be undetectable on the Concourse. The inner dust cover should also be replaced. Check out the floaters themselves to insure they operate freely when scr*w*d in or out, as some may need additional clearance inside due to poor workmanship in manufacture. This can easily be done at home with basic tools. The top two springs should be replaced with a single '39 top spring for optimum performance. Alan
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