| MrHenderson | -- 08-15-2024 @ 5:04 PM |
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The digits of my age have swapped since I last worked on my pickup. Coming up with my documents is one thing. But whether or not I had the documentation is another. I was led to believe: that the engine had a serial number. Can't find it. I read or was told that "LB" stamped on the block means it has bearing inserts. and a long time ago I located the "LB". Can't find it either. Reprint literature implies all '36 engines have inserts. That's all for now. I hope it rings a bell.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-15-2024 @ 7:51 PM |
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Your 1936 Ford pickup has no engine number. The transmission does, but may have been changed out. Where you'll find your number that should match your DMV Registration number is on the top surface of the left frame member between the radiator and the steering gear. It may have been lightly stamped, and may have corroded over the years, so be gentle when trying to clean it for better visibility. Some 1936 engines had insert bearings, some had Babbitt bearings. Yours being a light commercial, odds are strongly against your truck being favored with an LB engine from the factory. If you've found an LB stamped on the machined surface of the top of the block, you may be lucky, or it may have been stamped by someone looking to fool a potential buyer in the past, as LB's were favored among buyers from the git go. Remember also, odds are that your original engine is long gone. Don't look for that stamp on any other year engine but 1936, but Babbitt bearings ended during that year anyway. The literature you've read to the contrary is incorrect and was apparently written by a hack who wouldn't know or care if true or false. Alan
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| 51504bat | -- 08-15-2024 @ 7:59 PM |
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No serial number on the engine. There should be a number stamped into the top front section of the bell housing portion of the trans. There should also be a number stamped on the driver's side frame in front of the steering box. ______________ No signature
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| MrHenderson | -- 08-16-2024 @ 5:19 PM |
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Thank you guys. Since I'm new here I am hoping this one post will apply to you both. When I was young and told about the "LB" I looked and found it and showed it to the rebuilder in Houston. Now several decades later I can't find it and don't remember exactly where it was. So there's a wild card. I will look to see if the title matches the frame number, now located. It falls in line with the sequence suggested in my old old MOTOR manual, between first '36 and first '37. If it is a babbitted block are they the crank bearings only, or even the rods. Cause I might have misread the sales brochure from '36 to include all bearings, which I see now might not be correct. I'll be asking a lot of questions. Fortunately I did not mess it up too bad in 1970, I can put it back. Thank you guys again.
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| 51504bat | -- 08-16-2024 @ 7:22 PM |
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Try this: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm ______________ No signature
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| MrHenderson | -- 08-20-2024 @ 12:41 PM |
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Great News for me to share! With your help I found that the transmission does have a different number from the chassis. The Chassis does match the Vehicle registration. But most of all I found the "LB" It makes me feel better, having no reason to question the rebuilder. In the reprinted Chassis book I have, Battery dimensions are specified without Len, Wid, Hght. notes. All I have found so far is a Group 1 height of 8 3/4". How do I deal with that? I am still leaning toward restoration over renovation.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-20-2024 @ 2:15 PM |
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You won’t find a battery of the original dimensions. The choices available today will require a small modification of your battery tray. A Tractor Supply house can furnish an inexpensive 6v battery, or an Optima Red Top 6v is the best quality and perhaps the highest price. The Optima is not only much better, it’s smaller and can fit laying on its side if need be. Restoration vs renovation? I’ll take a guess on your definition of renovation as just getting it roadworthy, which is appreciated as much or more these days as a full on big money restoration. To prove my point, go to a car show and see how many guys are looking at the old rust bucket as opposed to the lack of guys looking at the shiny restoration. Alan
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| MrHenderson | -- 08-27-2024 @ 12:08 PM |
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Well it's close to the engine. How do I (can I) check my starter. The engine was rebuilt in '78. I'm just now getting around to the rest of the vehicle. Using the hand crank I made when I was 17 I can turn the engine easily. With the plugs out, cranked with the starter they all spark and I have at least 55# in each cyl. But with the plugs in, when one fires it stops that starter. I have the distributor timing adjusted all the way down for ATDC.
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| MrHenderson | -- 08-27-2024 @ 3:10 PM |
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Hold your horses! All it took was a group 2 battery! In the words of my son. "Holy Cow, this is happening!" We heard it run!
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