| whitecap | -- 08-21-2017 @ 1:31 PM |
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This is a 6 V pos. grnd., 8 cylinder engine. Has any one here done this type of conversion? If so, whose product did you go with?
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| ken ct. | -- 08-21-2017 @ 9:14 PM |
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Question is WHY. The ford pancake dist was desighned by Mallory himself and is very reliable. Electronic dist are very prone to heat failier and theres plenty of that under the hood of a flathead. Bad move. omo ken ct.
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| whitecap | -- 08-22-2017 @ 5:51 AM |
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In my mind it would remove the need for the amount of disassembly to change and adjust points periodically. It seems that one set of points where is much quicker than the other. The one set of contactors shows excessive panting and must be filed smooth to be reset. Thanks for your info as I was unaware
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| ken ct. | -- 08-22-2017 @ 6:04 AM |
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The rabbit eared dist and crab are the easiest to remove and replace to work on of all the ford dist. If pitting is that deep I would replace them not file them , and replace the cond. Use a NAPA # IH-200. Very reliable. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-22-2017 @ 10:36 AM |
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Whitecap, listen to Ken. You never had better advice in your life. Alan
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| whitecap | -- 08-22-2017 @ 11:19 AM |
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Will do fellas. Thank you for all your input. Will replace that one set and replace the cond. with NAPA #IH-200. Have you developed a way to remove the dist, without needing to remove fan assm. and both belts? That was the main reason I was investigating going electronic. Trying to avoid standing on the bumper and almost going upside down to get at it. This old body doesn't bend like it used to ( it doesn't unbend so good either).
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| len47merc | -- 08-22-2017 @ 11:48 AM |
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The 'need' to routinely (EDIT - or 'excessively') remove your distributor to dress and reset or change your points should be completely eliminated by having your entire electrical system operating at peak performance. This includes having the distributor properly set-up on a Sun or Allen machine. I have colleagues here in NC that routinely and completely rework their distributors themselves and they are seeing 5,000 miles give or take out of their points. I have other colleagues, plus myself, who have theirs (ours) set-up on the correct equipment using QUALITY components. I have ~8,750 miles on mine and it still runs like the day I installed it. A colleague about 100 miles or so from here is leading the pack of all us in our modest group, and is the benchmark for our collective tests, with almost 19,000 miles on his '46, and it still starts immediately when he hits the button and shows not even the slightest hint of a miss when under load in 3rd gear, such as when loaded with 2-3 passengers and running at lower rpms in 3rd gear up hills or simply not shifting out of 3rd at 90 degree turns and pushing back up to speed. The reason I say 'need' with apostrophes is that I do not believe there is a need to have to perform this so often as to be burdensome if one ensures the system is properly set-up and operating at peak efficiency. The points, if properly faced and are mating as close to perfectly flush as possible, should last much, much longer than the average joe believes. The only reason to remove the distributor routinely, IMHO, is to add a drop of oil to the bushings. When out of course you can examine the points and if it was properly set-up originally you will find little to no need to even draw a piece of emery paper through them, much less reset them or change them. Again IMHO, and per my experience to date with my '47, and per input and observation from and of local colleagues. EDIT2 - The quality points in my distributor, now with ~8,750 miles and counting on them, were supplied to me by ken ct. They were installed in the distributor and the distributor was set up on an Allen machine by John Shelor in Va. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-22-17 @ 12:03 PM
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| whitecap | -- 08-23-2017 @ 10:43 AM |
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Well Sir: I certainly don't have access to one of the special machines you mentioned. Just trying to keep my grand fathers truck going with a feeler gage. I do put NAPA points and condensers in when I do need to change them. I surely do appreciate the input.
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| cliftford | -- 08-23-2017 @ 11:30 AM |
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I agree with Steve. You cannot beat a stock ignition system in good condition in a stock engine. While desirable, it is not absolutely necessary to have it set up on a special machine. If the shaft is not badly worn. set the points to.016" and it should be very close and will run. My service manual shows how to do this by using a straight edge.
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| whitecap | -- 08-23-2017 @ 1:21 PM |
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Cliff: That's exactly how I have always done it with good success. Vehicle runs very smooth. It's the changing part that I would like to make easier. That was my original thinking on the electronic ignition question. Electronic ignition was a significant upgrade in the distributor world. Higher resulting voltages to the plugs and zero maintenance. There would be no point bounce at higher RPM's as well. It would mean a different coil and wires I'm sure.
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| len47merc | -- 08-23-2017 @ 2:25 PM |
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Whitecap - my reply to you was not intended to be condescending in anyway and if it was perceived that way my sincere apologies. Like you and Cliftford I previously set my distributor up myself and thought it could run no better until I was quite humbled by having John Shelor go through it and insert the quality components that I received from Ken CT and ensuring it was to spec for dwell and timing on his Allen machine. Upon installing it I was stunned and humbled to realize how much better a distributor can run if it is properly set up on the right equipment. I do not have the right equipment to do this myself and have to depend upon the recommended experts from this website to do this for me and after my experience am now glad to send it to them to have them perform the service for me. Since that point in time I've resigned not to go through the exercise of doing it myself - I just send it to an individual like Mr. Shelor or Skip Haney that can set it up to spec and then it becomes a Ron Popeil 'set-it-and-forget-it' install. I had to prove it to myself and had every expectation it would not be any better than what I had done myself, but again I was quite humbled when I was proven to be clearly wrong. Steve
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| whitecap | -- 08-24-2017 @ 11:02 AM |
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Oh Steve, there was no issue with your post at all on my part. I just don't have the opportunity or availability of the equipment that you mentioned. I still have my old Sears Tac & Dwell meter and timing light though. Are the parts that Ken uses a specialty item? Where does he procure these from. I am a firm believer in using the best parts available to extend the service life of what ever I am repairing. If Ken gets back on, would you think of sharing your supplier and the actual parts used? Thank you to all who have posted. It is a great feeling knowing someone is actually taking the time to read and address my question. I guess the "old farmer" in me has always been accustomed to DIY.
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| len47merc | -- 08-24-2017 @ 12:23 PM |
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I'll let ken ct weigh in on his remaining inventory and sources. Regarding simply sending your distributor out to someone who can perform the service turn-key for you, Skip Haney in Florida, John Shelor in Virginia and many others are out there with the equipment and expertise, and the cost for a refurb to spec is not that onerous. The results are more than noticeable by even the most novice of hobbyist. I have experience with both Skip Haney and John Shelor and highly recommend both. Others have their personal faves and will likely chime in with their recommendations if you wish to go that route. Given my and my colleagues' experiences with my (our) stock distributor(s) and electrical system(s) general I have never had the need to go electronic or have any experience with it. Fellow members ford38v8, cliftford, supereal, TomO, kubes 40, Stroker and many others thankfully guided me down the stock path and Sun or Allen machine sources and set-ups and the results have more than validated their recommendations. Also, though not (yet) responded to in your discussion are the many comments I've read on this Forum regarding questionable reliability of the electronic conversions. Again I've no experience here but the comments have typically been biased toward the negative from my reading and recall. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-24-17 @ 12:24 PM
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| whitecap | -- 08-24-2017 @ 3:12 PM |
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Thanks Steve. Where in Florida might Skip be as I am in Fl. as well. Port Charlotte area. If he weighs in I could see about getting it to him.
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| len47merc | -- 08-24-2017 @ 4:19 PM |
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Skip Haney 29436 Taralane Dr. Punta Gorda, Fl 941-637-6698 (Day) 941-505-9085 (Eve) www.fordcollector.com skip@fordsrus.com Also, someone in your regional chapter will likely know either of Skip or someone else who has a functional Sun or Allen machine somewhere near you and has the expertise to do this. Folks over on Ford Barn speak highly of www.bubbasignition.com/ - Jim 'Bubba' Linder and Terry Engle - but I've no experience the business or know of anyone who has. Steve
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| whitecap | -- 08-25-2017 @ 3:23 AM |
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Steve: Thanks for the info on Skip. Turns out he's in a neighboring community to me. LOL. I will contact him and see what his charges are. I have to believe that he has seen me out and about with the old truck in our area.
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| len47merc | -- 08-25-2017 @ 1:33 PM |
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I spoke with Skip today and he confirmed he still has the equipment and is performing the distributor service. Suggest you reach out to ken ct on his inventory of points and as well talk with Skip about his - doubt if one's quality is better than the other but worth the call to both to discuss - they'll both be candid and honest with you about what would be best for your distributor. Steve
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