| mercury39 | -- 04-11-2016 @ 5:05 PM |
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I removed the starter to check it and found a broken bolt, last one that tightens the oil pan. Explains the oil leak. Any advise on how to remove the oil pan, is it just easier to pull the engine?
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| cliftford | -- 04-11-2016 @ 5:45 PM |
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If you can get to it with a small drill or die grinder, get a small left handed bit, 1/8 or so and you can probably spin it out.
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| TomO | -- 04-12-2016 @ 9:31 AM |
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You can try to remove the broken bolt with the engine in the car by using the left hand drill and easy out, but because you did not say where your oil leak is and how bad it is, I can't tell you if it will help. My guess is that it won't make any difference. Leaks from the front of the engine are from the front main seal, the water pumps, oil filter return line and from the distributor to timing cover gasket. There is a one piece seal to replace the front main seal. It requires removing the pan to install it. Leaks from the rear of the engine are usually due to the ineffective rear main slinger type seal or a worn rear main bearing. The slinger type rear main seal was standard on all 1940 Mercury engines. Some engines had the rear main seal changed to the "bus" type (rope) rear main seal. This required a crankshaft without the slinger. The rope seal can be changed to reduce oil leakage. Another cause of rear main leakage, is the removal of the pipe that fits in the rear main cap. This pipe will direct the excess oil back into the pan. I find it much easier to replace any of these deals with the engine out of the car. To remove it on the 39 Mercury Drain the oil and coolant Remove the hoses and exhaust manifolds Remove the grounding strap and engine wires to the coil, generator and sending units. Remove the hood Remove the radiator being careful with the headlight wires. Protect or remove the front seat. (grease has a way of finding the best place to stain the upholstery) Remove the front mat and floor pieces Support the transmission with a jack Remove the bell housing bolts Remove the chatter bars Remove the intake manifold if you have a low clearance problem Attach the hoisting chain to 4 exhaust manifold attachment points Remove the cotter keys and nuts from the front motor mounts Check to see that there are no remaining attachments between the motor and the chassis. Start raising the engine while monitoring the jack under the transmission. Jack the transmission as you raise the engine to keep them in a straight line. As the bell housing gets near the body of the car, start pulling the engine toward the front of the car until it separates from the transmission. Continue raising the engine until the lowest point clears the grill. I hope that if I have forgotten something, another poster will chip in. Tom
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| mercury39 | -- 04-12-2016 @ 2:15 PM |
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thanks, could not get to it, its right there in that spot where it had to make my life miserable...jaja...right on the corner, no way to get the drill into it. So will be spending my weekend pulling the engine out... This message was edited by mercury39 on 4-12-16 @ 2:18 PM
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| mercury39 | -- 04-12-2016 @ 2:19 PM |
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Thanks Tom
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