| JONE | -- 07-20-2015 @ 10:30 AM |
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I have a early '47 Mercury. After completely rewiring the car, & completing the 12V conversion, everything seems to work just fine. I started the engine and enjoyed driving it around town a bit. I had noticed that when turning off the switch lever the engine would continue to run for a second or two before shutting down. Yesterday I got stranded at the grocery store, the car would not start. It turned over just fine but would not fire. Had it towed home. I think the problem may be in the ignition switch. Even with the switch in the off position I am getting current to the Coil and Gage terminals. The car has an electric fan attached to one of the terminals, but it will not run. It does run when 12V is applied directly. Does anybody know what I can do to repair this situation?
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| JONE | -- 07-20-2015 @ 12:36 PM |
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I've removed the ignition switch body, it is encased in a metal box. The replacement part in Mac's & Carpenter's catalogs just show the bakelite part that is encased in the box. The back of the box is staked to the box and cannot be removed without grinding the stakes off. I can do that. I get good continuity between the batt post and the gage post, but very poor continuity between the batt & coil posts. I guess I'll grind off the stakes and see what I have.
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| TomO | -- 07-21-2015 @ 5:33 AM |
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I doubt that you need to do any grinding on the metal box. Most of them have 4 metal tangs that can be bent to remove the Bakelite switch portion. If you do grind off the tangs, you will not be able to reuse the box. Tom
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| JONE | -- 07-21-2015 @ 7:13 AM |
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There are metal tabs on two sides that are bent inward to retain the bakelite part. They will be nearly impossible to get ahold of to bend outward. The metal back plate is fastened to the metal body by means of extruded holes in the back plate thru the metal body and then swaged over. That is what I intend to grind off, hopefully I can leave a couple of tabs that can later be re-swaged. I have not yet purchased the new switch body, but when I receive it I will try to determine a way to remove the old part.Perhaps I can bend the side tabs out from the bottom. This message was edited by JONE on 7-21-15 @ 7:14 AM
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| cliftford | -- 07-21-2015 @ 7:30 AM |
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Here is something you might try that works sometimes: drill a 1/8 or smaller hole in the metal part of the switch spray in some WD 40 with the small straw that comes with it and work the switch back and forth. If the contacts are dirty it may do the trick. It's worth a try.
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| JONE | -- 07-22-2015 @ 7:10 AM |
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That's a good thought Clifford, but due to some of the problems as stated in my original post, I believe something may be loose or broken inside the switch. I have ordered the new switch body and should have it in a day or two. The engineer in me makes me want to take it apart and see how it works.
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| cliftford | -- 07-22-2015 @ 8:31 AM |
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Here's what I would do if you want to be able to drive the car: Temporarily install a universal ignition switch, until you can find a good used or nos one. If Carpenter. Mac's, and Drake don't have it, it's probably not available as a repro.
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| JONE | -- 07-22-2015 @ 8:48 AM |
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I tried the WD-40 trick. Instead of drilling a hole I squirted the WD-40 thru the retaining tabs. It did not seem to remedy the problem. I took the switch apart and found that the contacts were a bit corroded and the coil contact in the switch body was worn. I ordered a new switch body from Macs, I should get it in a day or two. I polished the contacts in the swivel plate with a scotch brite pad. Now I just have to wait for the new switch body to arrive so I can put it back together. It's really quite simple inside.
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| JONE | -- 07-25-2015 @ 10:19 AM |
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I received the switch body from Mac's today. When I test assembled the parts I am still getting less continuity between the batt contact and coil contact than I get with the gage contact. The coil contact button on the pivoting contact set is worn and the spring is weak. Does anybody know where I can purchase the contacts? The contact set for 38-40 in Mac's catalog looks somewhat similar, but I don't believe it will work.
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| JONE | -- 07-25-2015 @ 10:54 AM |
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I did a slight modification to the coil contact button on the triangular contact set that will get me by for a while until it wears down some more. I still need to get a new contact set.
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| TomO | -- 07-26-2015 @ 7:57 AM |
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Here is a link to a site that lists a seller that has the correct brush. The listing is over a year old, but it may still be available http://www.pistonindex.com/view.php?posturl=de06dd7903a7d6ade6ae0197078b509f&t=1941-42-46-47-FORD-PASSENGER-IGNITION-SWITCH-BRUSH-09A-3709-NOS-NEW-OLD-STOCK Rear Counter also lists 2 sellers of the brush. http://www.rearcounter.com/09A-3709-parts178943.html Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-26-15 @ 8:03 AM
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| JONE | -- 07-26-2015 @ 9:47 AM |
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Thanks Tom, I'll see if I can get the part on order tomorrow (Monday).
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| JONE | -- 07-27-2015 @ 6:29 PM |
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I bought an NOS part from D. Carpenter today. Thank you very much for your help.
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| TomO | -- 07-28-2015 @ 6:22 AM |
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You are welcome. Tom
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