| Tracker | -- 02-06-2010 @ 9:05 AM |
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The clock stopped working...the fuse is good and the test light is showing power all the way to the clock. I do not want to remove the entire dash to take it out but I read on here some time back someone with a similar problem had sprayed the clock with a solvent of some kind to loosen up the original oils these clocks had when assembled. Any suggestions on this fix would be much appreciated. Thanks & regards
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| deluxe40 | -- 02-06-2010 @ 9:30 AM |
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There might not be any more you can do without removing the clock from the dash. I haven't worked on a '51 Merc, but you can get the clock out of a '51 Ford by first removing the radio. Once the clock is removed, you might be able to free it up with some ammonia-based clock cleaner or, as I have done a few times, some spray-can brake cleaner (be careful not to get any on the dial or hands.) Then wash with dish soap and hot water and blow dry (gently). To lubricate, I use MMO or Mobil 1. Don't put any oil directly on the gear teeth - just a dot on the face of each gear - it will spread. After cleaning and oiling, I sometimes I hang the clock over my workbench and start it by spinning the escapement each time I walk by. The clocks seem to run longer and longer each time until they keep going on their own. If the Merc clock is like some of the '49-'50 Ford clocks I have worked on, it is driven by a spring that is electrically wound when it runs down and points close. If so, the battery in the car needs to be charged fully. A problem with cars that aren't driven frequently is that the battery runs down to the point where the clock won't rewind, but current still flows through the winding coils which can burn them up. Hopefully, this isn't the case with your clock.
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| supereal | -- 02-06-2010 @ 12:36 PM |
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Electrically wound clocks depend on good contact points. These clocks rewind often, usually after about 5 minutes, and the points develop burned spots, interfering with energizing the "kicker" coil. If you spray anything into the clock, you will make the problem worse. Remove the back of the clock and, using a fine point file, dress the point surfaces. If necessary, adjust the contacts by carefully bending the arm. We have also found broken coil wires. They are very fine, and subject to damage. If you want to lube the clock, using a very fine instrument oil, dab a tiny bit on the pivot points with a toothpick. Car clocks are getting very expensive, if you can find them at all. I bought one on eBay last year for over $250, and still had to fix it to make it wind!
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| TomO | -- 02-08-2010 @ 6:18 AM |
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First you need to check if the clock is wound. You have to remove it from it's case to see this. You need to be very careful when working on the clock. There are small springs that can be damaged when any force is applied to them and there may be small leaf springs that can be lost when trying to operate the clock by hand. To prevent loss of small parts, I suggest that you spread a large white cloth in your work area and do all of your work over this. I would also recommend an artists paint tray, to organize any parts that you remove. This is a tray with 4-6 compartments for mixing water colors. They are usually white in color. Once you have it out of the dash board, open the case and observe the contacts. If they are open, or your clock starts running when you move it, it was probably wound and needs cleaning. If the points are closed, hook the clock up to 6 volts and ground the case. The clock should wind. If it does not, try cleaning the contacts with a contact burnishing blade. This is a small blade coated with very fine diamond dust. Do not use sand paper or emery cloth. They will remove all of the silver or tungsten coating. You can spray contact cleaner with lubricant on the contacts and use a piece of cardboard to clean the contacts also. The contact cleaner will not harm the movement and I have used it to get clocks working. The contact cleaner and burnishing blade can be purchased at Radio Shack. Tom
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| Tracker | -- 02-08-2010 @ 1:06 PM |
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Thanks to everyone who took time to respond to this request for help. I know nothing about the subject but I am following the recommendations offered here and will post a follow up when finished. Thanks again for the valuable info. Tracker
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| Tracker | -- 02-09-2010 @ 3:53 PM |
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I am glad someone mentioned that the clock may start running after its removal from the dash.I thought I had entered the twilight zone after spending 1/2 day standing on my head getting it out and then it started running again. I took it to a local watchmaker for repairs. He agreed the clock had been wound but the electrical contact points were frozen and may have to be replaced. Again, my personal thanks to every one who provided invaluable info on this subject. The most knowlegable people I know of contribute to this forum and always render great advice on how to for novices like me. Tracker
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