| len47merc | -- 08-10-2014 @ 12:15 PM |
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Looking for advice on battery disconnect switches. Have local colleagues using all styles (e.g., C&G part #'s A-14300-C and A-14300-D, HELLA 2843 Series 100A Rating Battery Master Switch plus other styles) but no one is endorsing any style as 'best' other than the HELLA. Many do not look robust and/or are represented to have poor functionality. Your thoughts, experience and recommendations appreciated. Steve
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-10-2014 @ 12:37 PM |
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Steve, I don't use them myself, but I remember that Forum member GM posted results of his study on those switches. Most are made for 12 V, which is junk for us. Hope that GM reads your question and posts again. Alan
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| supereal | -- 08-10-2014 @ 1:06 PM |
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I have had one of the "green knob" battery switches on the battery of my '47 for almost 20 years. It has the original 6 volt system. They are inexpensive, usually around ten dollars, and simply mount on the battery post, then the cable connects to the outlet post on the switch. It prevents battery run down during storage or between uses. An electrically wound clock can do it and, of course, forgetting to shut off a radio or igntion switch is always possible for us in geezerhood.
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| TomO | -- 08-11-2014 @ 5:15 AM |
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On my 40, I just raise the hood and disconnect the ground cable. My Lincoln has the battery under the floor boards, so a heavy duty switch was installed under the hood. I am not a fan of these switches as they can drop the voltage as much as 1 volt and should be checked frequently to avoid the voltage drop. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 08-11-2014 @ 5:18 AM |
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Thanks - a better endorsement from you supereal than a neighbor who used one of these and reported multiple problems and concerns with his. I was debating your style versus a WirthCo 20208 Battery Doctor Knife Blade Switch but without any personal experience with any of these switches need some input. I have grown weary of constantly having to disconnect the battery between drives (to minimize clock wear/use/battery drain and as well prevent the unthinkable while the '47 is idled). Also, the terminal end of the negative cable doesn't need the constant wear and tear. Personal preference is to identify and install a quick and easy, single-movement shut-off that provides solid connection while not requiring the drilling of mounting holes. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-11-14 @ 5:42 AM
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| len47merc | -- 08-11-2014 @ 6:12 AM |
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Thanks Tom - the voltage drop data you note is a concern that I had from the start and was wondering if any of these 'single-movement' disconnects were robust and low-resistance enough to prevent the same. Like you I have simply been disconnecting the negative cable but did not want to wear out the terminal from the constant tightening and loosening of the nut. Sounds like, for optimum performance, I may need to stay with this process. Steve
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| len47merc | -- 08-11-2014 @ 12:33 PM |
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Update - spent some time on the phone with Wirthco tech rep named 'Tim'. Very helpful and supportive. Bottom line - most battery disconnect switches are not rated for the amps potentially hit with typical 800-1,000 CCA 6V batteries. Knife blades and the 'green' screw knobs are rated for up to 125 amps continuous and 250 amps surge at 6V. To hit the full potential of your battery, starter and overal system their recommendation for these switches is Wirthco's part number 20387 (available at multiple auto part shops, Amazon & WWGrainger). Personally still debating whether to take this step to mount a switch under the hood or stay with simply removing the negative cable and deal with the associated terminal wear. Steve
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| TomO | -- 08-12-2014 @ 10:06 AM |
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Steve, the switch in my Lincoln is Allstar Performance ALL80156 Battery Disconnect Switch, which will carry 1,000 amps for starting. As far as I have been able to find out, this is the switch with the best starting current rating. I have not checked the voltage drop across it under starting conditions, but my starter turns over pretty good and I have no problem priming the carburetor with the starter after sitting for a few weeks. It was on the car when I bought it, and I probably will leave it on. This switch is available on Amazon as well as from Summit and other automotive vendors. As far as wearing out the battery post and cable, my ground cable on the 40 is about 30 years old and probably should be replaced, but it works fine. I use the 40 about once a week during the summer months. and find that it is no additional problem to raise the hood, disconnect the cable and connect the battery tender. When I am on an overnight or longer tour, I usually leave the cable connected. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 8-12-14 @ 10:15 AM
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| len47merc | -- 08-12-2014 @ 1:04 PM |
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Thanks Tom - given your length of experience here with your process I plan to stand pat and continue to disconnect the neg. Have to open the hood anyway with or without a switch. Plus, do not care to drill any holes to mount a switch given the motor compartment originality. Stock will look better to me under the hood as well. Given the number of judgings you've personally been through do you know if point deducts are given for disconnect switches? Steve
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| TomO | -- 08-13-2014 @ 6:37 AM |
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Steve, that is up to the judging team. I don't find any reference to the switch on the judging form, but it could be considered a non-authorized addition. My Lincoln will be going in the Rouge class at Sprinfield, and will probably not qualify for Rouge status in the running gear. Tom
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| supereal | -- 08-13-2014 @ 10:36 AM |
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C&G has the knob switch as A-14300-C, $13. That mounts on the battery post. If you want one for permanent mounting, change the suffix to D. (800/266-0470). When the knob is properly tightened, there should be no voltage drop. To disable the vehicle for storage, simply unscrew and remove the knob to a safe place.
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