| len47merc | -- 02-11-2014 @ 4:09 AM |
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'47 w/37K original miles (w/oil filter), sitting for several decades and brought back to life 4th quarter of last year. Leaks oil like most everyone indicates a flathead does (leaking a quart every 750-1,000 miles) but it is annoying to soil/stain my neighbors' and friends' driveways (using a metal drip pan in my garage). Removing the oil pan this month to remove the years of non-detergent oil sediment as well as clean the oil pick-up screen. While off, have read and heard from others that the front and rear main seals can be changed from underneath the vehicle using a 'Sneaky Pete Seal Tool' and perhaps lowering the crank 1/4" if necessary. Does anyone have any experience and/or recommendations in this regard before I attempt the same? Or is it better just to bite the bullet and pull the motor? Motor runs great and clean so no other reason to pull it. Thanks - Steve
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| TomO | -- 02-11-2014 @ 7:08 AM |
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The front seal upper portion is in the timing gear cover. To replace it, remove the crank pulley, oil pan and timing gear cover. Use the full circle type front seal. Install the seal on the crankshaft, replace the timing cover and then the pulley. http://macsautoparts.com/early-ford-pickup-oil-pan-to-front-crankshaft-seal-modern-style-aluminum-with-inner-seal-4-cylinder-ford-model-b-ford-flathead-v8-except-60-hp-a6700m/camid/FP1/cp/JS0R3CHL1129386E/ The rear seal may be just a slinger riding in a V-groove. I have never tried replacing the rope type seal with the engine in the car. Tom
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| cliftford | -- 02-11-2014 @ 7:41 AM |
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There are oil additives available that are designed to soften and expand old seals. I personally have no experience with them, maybe someone else has. Is the leak at the front or rear seal, or both?
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| len47merc | -- 02-11-2014 @ 8:00 AM |
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The vast bulk of the leak is from the rear main seal. I have both a new & complete oil pan gasket set (which includes the white front and black rear (bottom/pan) rope seals) as well as a new & complete (top & bottom) graphite impregnated rear main seal. I also have the top rope for the front, though it is anticipated the replacement of the front bottom, pan rope seal will reconcile the majority of the front leak, but the rear, given the amount of the leak, is perceived to need a full replacement. Steve
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| len47merc | -- 02-11-2014 @ 8:31 AM |
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Tom - thanks for the link and advice on the front seal. I like that design much better. If, after removing the pan it appears the entire seal is toast I'll go back with this more robust design. Otherwise, just the bottom front rope and see how she does. Steve
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| cliftford | -- 02-11-2014 @ 8:36 AM |
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I'm assuming this is a 59AB V8 engine. If so. it should have a slinger in a groove that sends excess oil back to the crankcase. 2 things come to mind: the return tube or hole is plugged or there is excessive clearance on the rear main. I would support the rear of the crank and check it with plastiguage. According to Motors manual, all 40-53 V8s have the slinger type rear seal. The "sneaky pete" would not work on this type seal. Good Luck This message was edited by cliftford on 2-11-14 @ 9:17 AM
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| len47merc | -- 02-11-2014 @ 8:48 AM |
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Early '47 59AB. Will have to get into it now myself as the original owner, DC, C&G & Job Lot all indicate rope seal, while Early Ford & others, like you cliftford, indicate slinger. Love the car but the timing of original manufacture has certainly produced a number of nuances, confusion and erroneous part application references by suppliers' on their parts. I'll check the return tube and rear main clearance when I get in to it - thanks for the heads-up. Steve
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