| Tracker | -- 09-13-2013 @ 3:45 PM |
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In preparation for major shoulder surgery, my stock std shift 1951 Merc was put away for over a year...started every month or so for short periods....all fluids changed prior to hibernation and running perfectly when stored. This week it was rolled out for a maiden run after 15 mos and had some major changes in performance. The engine starts , idles and runs perfect up until about 30 mph. At 30 mph it begins to act as tho it has a throttle limiter ...the engine does not miss, cut out or do anything abnormal except ...it will not take any more throttle advance/gas and will not get much above 35 mph, It just bumbles along and when you take your foot off the accelerator from full to normal , it just resumes at about 35 mph without a hitch. No amount of feathering the food feed seems to make any difference. I'm thinking the dist is not advancing but that's just a guess on my part and I don't know how to prove it. I'm really hoping someone can give me some diagnostics I can perform on my own to get a handle on whats happening. As always , thanks in advance for any suggestions on this. Regards
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| supereal | -- 09-13-2013 @ 6:23 PM |
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I suspect the the carb is your problem. The coincentric carb on your car is a complicated device, and if the float level has been affected, it could create the lack of power. Have it looked at by someone who knows their stuff. Meanwhile, be sure the delivery of fuel is sufficient, and the pressure is correct. Both the carb and the fuel pump contain rubber parts, which are affcted by alcohol that is present in all gas.
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| carcrazy | -- 09-13-2013 @ 10:59 PM |
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You might want to check the air cleaner and the exhaust system for the presence of a rodent or wasp nest. You could also have a partial blockage in the fuel line somewhere between the tank and the carburetor.
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| TomO | -- 09-15-2013 @ 8:56 AM |
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Tracker you could check out your distributor advance with a timing light. You could check for obstructions in the exhaust with a vacuum gauge. Your problem could be due to a weak spark also. Check for sufficient fuel delivery as your fuel line may have become partially plugged over the year. Let us know what you find. I hope the shoulder surgery went well and that you are back to normal. Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-15-2013 @ 11:16 AM |
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I have four pages of Ford service bulletins regarding the operation and repair of the concentric carb. I can scan and e-mail them to you. Just leave me a PM (personal message) with your e-mail address, as multiple page posting doesn't fit this forum. Posting your e-mail address here will almost always produce unwanted mail. This message was edited by supereal on 9-15-13 @ 11:16 AM
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| Tracker | -- 09-15-2013 @ 9:41 PM |
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Thanks SR....I have found a vintage carb builder on line who rebuilds the Holley carb on this car. Pricey but I will use him if I can get to the point I believe it is a carb problem and not something else. I am taking each suggestion and proving or disproving where the problem lies. For instance, this car has an inline electric fuel pump 6 volt and changed out the Wix filter. No improvement. Blew air through all fuel lines...no obstruction noted. Still going through the suggested check list. Thanks.
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| Tracker | -- 09-15-2013 @ 9:43 PM |
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Thanks...checked the air cleaner, fuel lines and the exhaust system. Nothing has shown up yet. Regard's Tracker
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| Tracker | -- 09-15-2013 @ 9:54 PM |
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Tom I'm working down the check list but I cannot locate a 6 volt timing light to check the dist. advance. I have a new coil in inventory and will put it in play since its an easy addition and check to see performance improvements. All the fuel delivery systems appear to be ok...blew air thu lines and did a flexible speedo cable rod out and did not note anything unusual so far. Tnanks for the nice words on my surgery...I had completely lost the use of my right arm...being right handed made for a few challenges and I do not wish anyone the aggravation and pain associated with the recovery process.
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| Tracker | -- 09-15-2013 @ 9:58 PM |
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Sr...thanks for the offer of the tech data on the Holley carb...I would really like to have the data but I don't know how to do what you ask.
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| TomO | -- 09-16-2013 @ 7:56 AM |
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Tracker, you can connect the 12 volt timing light to a 12 volt battery and still connect the pickup to the #1 cylinder. Just be sure that you are using one with a plastic case to protect against shock hazards. Replacing the coil is not a good idea unless you have determined that the spark is weak. You can buy a spark gap tester for lawn mowers at some hardware or auto parts store. This allows you to observe the spark while the engine is running. The spark should jump a 1/2" gap at all engine speeds. http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=17403 Lisle part number 50850. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-16-13 @ 7:59 AM
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| supereal | -- 09-16-2013 @ 10:19 AM |
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Click the "send p.m." box above the posting. This will forward a personal message that is safe from the scammers and other vermin. This message was edited by supereal on 9-16-13 @ 10:21 AM
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| Tracker | -- 09-19-2013 @ 4:12 AM |
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TOM I used the twelve volt battery to operate the timing light and it worked like a charm. The timing was off a bit but still not the problem solver. I am back to the carb as the probable cause of all the mischief...that or the mechanical fuel pump. I drained the tank and had a fair amount of water....I should have done that first I guess but I am still in a vertical learning curve,,,still working thru the check list. Regards Tracker
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| Tracker | -- 09-19-2013 @ 4:35 AM |
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Tom, SuperReal, Car Crazy ... everyone who responded to my request for help on this post...I think I found the main source of the problem : a badly curved fuel pump push rod not able to fully operate the pump to capacity at speed. The end that operates off the cam is dished in at least 1/64 ",,,,replaced it with a old push rod not quite as bad but still needs a new one, test drive up to 75 mph...ran like a champ. Bought a new Holley carb rebuild kit from C&G Ford and found a local that has experience rebuilding the Holley. My sincere thanks to every one for their suggestions and willingness to share hard earned knowledge on the maintenance on these old cars. I have gained valuable knowledge every time on this website that I have asked for help and IMHO there are no finer group of mechanics/ Car Guys anywhere to be found. Thanks again. Regards Tracker
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| Tracker | -- 09-19-2013 @ 4:36 AM |
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Tom, SuperReal, Car Crazy ... everyone who responded to my request for help on this post...I think I found the main source of the problem : a badly curved fuel pump push rod not able to fully operate the pump to capacity at speed. The end that operates off the cam is dished in at least 1/64 ",,,,replaced it with a old push rod not quite as bad but still needs a new one, test drive up to 75 mph...ran like a champ. Bought a new Holley carb rebuild kit from C&G Ford and found a local that has experience rebuilding the Holley. My sincere thanks to every one for their suggestions and willingness to share hard earned knowledge on the maintenance on these old cars. I have gained valuable knowledge every time on this website that I have asked for help and IMHO there are no finer group of mechanics/ Car Guys anywhere to be found. Thanks again. Regards Tracker
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| supereal | -- 09-19-2013 @ 2:06 PM |
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Thanks for letting us know you found and solved the problem. Too often, we never hear if any of our suggestions helped. Be sure that a new pump rod is correct. While they all look the same, there are a number of them for different years. As you have found out, a very small difference can result in poor fuel delivery. In most cases, excess wear on the camshaft end of the rod can indicate poor oil pressure, or infrequent changes. Genuine Ford camshafts are very durable, but non stock push rods are not always so.
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