| jimmott29 | -- 09-17-2012 @ 5:09 AM |
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Can anyone help me with how to set the timing on my 1939 Mercury?
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| supereal | -- 09-17-2012 @ 9:07 AM |
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If you install points, set the gap at about .016. There is a slider on the side of the distributor. Set it at midpoint. We usually put them all the way to the "plus" side, as today's gas won't usually produce any pinging. Be sure the tang of the distributor drive matches the slot in the cam before you bolt it down. That's all there is to it. If you are concerned about the advance, you will have to check that on a machine.
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| jimmott29 | -- 09-18-2012 @ 4:46 AM |
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Thanks for the advice. I found the screw that allows you to move the distributor. Is there any way to use a timing light? I don't see any reference marks on the flywheel? I may have found the problem? When I was looking at the distributor, I noticed that the support that is soldered on the side of the condenser had broken loose. At that point the engine would not start. I used a nylon tie to keep the bracket in contact with the condenser & the engine started right up! I ordered a new condenser from Mac's. I'll keep everyone posted on the results. I assume the outside of the condenser must be grounded? Jim Mott
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| supereal | -- 09-18-2012 @ 6:18 AM |
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The timing is preset, and provides the initial advance. The weights in the breaker plate mount provide the operating advance. That is why there is no marking on the crankshaft pulley, or need for it. The condenser body must be grounded to operate. . Condensers are not expensive, and readily available. The best solution is to replace the one with the defective bracket.
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| jimmott29 | -- 09-18-2012 @ 9:31 AM |
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Thank you so much for the help & great advise. The car has rended to run a bit hot (on the gauge) this summer. Possibly the eratic spark caused but the bad ground on the condenser may have been a cause of this? I checked with a laser thermometer when it was in the hot range & nothing was over 185 degrees. I had such good luck here, I'm going to post a wheel balance problem. Thanks again, Jim Mott
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| supereal | -- 09-19-2012 @ 3:37 PM |
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Timing on old Fords is seldom a cause of overheating. One cause that is overlooked is a master cylinder that builds pressure, causing partial application of the brakes. If you are seeing only 185 ,degrees when the gauge shows hot, it is more than likely a bad sender. 185 is not hot. You may have190 degree thermostats. This message was edited by supereal on 9-19-12 @ 3:38 PM
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| jimmott29 | -- 09-21-2012 @ 6:46 AM |
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If I remember correctly, these old cars never had thermostats that were as high as 190 degrees! I remember 160 as being normal & 180 as being a hot thermostat. It was not until emisions that the manufactures started to run the engines hoter? Jim
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| supereal | -- 09-21-2012 @ 7:48 AM |
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190 stats are, and have been available for years. Most use 160,if at all. One of the benefits of stats, outside of helping prevent sludge formation by lowering warmup time, is that they provide a slight back pressure to lessen steam formation in parts of the heads and block.
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| ken ct. | -- 03-23-2013 @ 6:09 PM |
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By the way you must do final setting of the points with the coil tightened down to the distributor. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-23-2013 @ 6:37 PM |
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Ken, if you don't mind, I'll elaborate a little on that: The coil as installed puts a load on the terminal plate by way of the heavy contact spring on its base. With average wear on the distributor allowing a slight movement of the plate under that load, the points function can be mildly distorted in use. Adjustment while under the load of the coils spring compensates for that distortion. Alan
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| supereal | -- 03-23-2013 @ 8:55 PM |
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And, the point adjustment will change when the screws holding the points to their plate are cinched down. When we set up a distributor on the machine, we have to compensate for this factor to get the correct dwell. As Ken and Alan point out, the coil contact spring does affect the adjustment, and tightening the coil to the distributor body changes the body a bit. Fortunately, the Ford distributor is somewhat forgiving, and setting points with a feeler gauge usually provides acceptable perfprmance, even though machine setting is preferable.
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