| Peder D | -- 07-27-2011 @ 12:50 PM |
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I'm getting a sense of "hesitating" as I drive my car at slow speeds. When it gets too bad, I have to disengage the clutch. At higher speeds the "hesitating" is not that noticable. Is this a carb. problem or electrical, or both? The carb. has been taken apart and cleaned and replaced parts. Seems to be plenty of spark as well and all wiring replaced except the spark plug wires...hope you can help me...thanks...Peder
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| carcrazy | -- 07-27-2011 @ 7:41 PM |
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Sometimes a little hesitating or surging at low speeds is an indication of an exhaust valve that is either burnt or not closing all the way. You can check that possiblilty by running a compression check or using a vacuum gauge to see if the intake manifold vacuum varies.
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| Peder D | -- 07-28-2011 @ 10:57 AM |
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Thanks for your reply. I should hasten to mention that the engine was totally rebuilt last year and has not run that much to date. Thanks. Peder
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| TomO | -- 07-28-2011 @ 5:53 PM |
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Peder, I am not sure what you mean about hesitation. Do you mean that the engine takes time to respond when you press on the accelerator? This could be caused by a bad power valve. Do you mean that it surges and slows down at low speeds? This could be caused by the idle speed set too high. Tom
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| Peder D | -- 07-29-2011 @ 12:37 PM |
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More like surges and slows down at slow speeds...a rocking sensation...you get a clunking sound and have to disengage the clutch...long before you stop or accelerate...idle has been set low...thanks
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| TomO | -- 07-31-2011 @ 8:29 AM |
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Peder, if your idle is set at 450-500 rpm, I do not know of any fix for your problem. Maybe someone else has solved this problem another way. Tom
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-31-2011 @ 2:14 PM |
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Peder, we are at a loss as to diagnose without further information. First, tell us about the carb and all other work done just before then problem started. Forget about work done last year, just work done recently. Does this problem happen when the engine is cold, warm, or both? Are you using your choke knob when it happens? Does the engine idle smoothly out of gear? Will the engine rev smoothly out of gear? Do you hear any backfiring at any time? Has the sound of the exhaust changed recently? Does your clutch slip or grab or chatter? Do you ever haver trouble starting the engine? Alan
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| supereal | -- 08-01-2011 @ 11:49 AM |
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I'd run a test with a vacuum gauge to pin down where the problem lies.
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| Peder D | -- 08-06-2011 @ 11:27 PM |
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Hi all! Guess I haven't made myself to clear...sorry...but someone told me here that you might want to check for "false air"...so I tightened down all screws, nuts and bolts, including the bowl under the fuel pump. Took the car for a drive, and what a differnce! A totally different car to drive now! Not perfect, but hey, it's an old car! Thanks to all for being so helpful and patient! Peder
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| Peder D | -- 10-31-2011 @ 3:00 PM |
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The joy of having tightened down all the screws and nuts was short lived. Engine idles well out of gear, but will "spit" out of exhaust once in a while. Had the carb. adjusted, but didn't help. No work done this year except carb. adjustment. Engine easy to start when warm, takes a little more effort after sitting for long periods. Could the voltage regulator be "faulty" sending uneven currents out causing the "spitting"? Amp gage needle has sudden abrupt movements while idling/driving without using accessories. All wiring new, voltage reg. not changed. A wild guess on my part. No clutch problems, no backfiring. Problem noticeable when idling warm and during driving. Thanks for your patience. Peder
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| supereal | -- 10-31-2011 @ 3:08 PM |
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Hesitation upon acceleration usually is caused by an ineffective accelerator pump. Look to see where the link is placed, For cool weather, the link should be set for the longest stroke. If the carb was rebuilt, the person responsible may have failed to reinstall the small ball check and retainer in the pump well. Idle speed should be in the area of 500-600 rpm. I, too, would run a vacuum check to eliminate a sticking valve problem. Those old flatheads are forgiving of lots of problems, but the carb must be operating correctly. Too many "rebuilders" today are clueless abouthow they work.
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| TomO | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:00 AM |
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Peder, Because you mentioned an erratic ammeter, I suspect that you may have a worn ignition switch. Hook a volt meter to the battery side of the coil and vibrate the ignition switch while the car is running. It is possible after all of these years that the switch has worn enough to cause the problem. The ignition resistor could also be the problem. Tom
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