| RAK402 | -- 07-27-2015 @ 8:50 PM |
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I pulled the tank out of my sedan today-it is so full of rust and crud that it is blocking the flow of fuel. On the drivers side, the tank was retained by two bolts, which have holes in them as if for safety wire. On the passenger side, there is one, similar long bolt, with a spring on it. Is this the correct hardware? What purpose does the spring serve? Also, my fuel sending unit is shot. I can buy a Stuart Warner repro locally, or I can try to clean mine up and install a new float (I think the unit probably still works, although it is incredibly rusty). Are any of the repros any good, or should I attempt to fix the old one (which I assume is original). Thank you all in advance!
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| kubes40 | -- 07-28-2015 @ 6:35 AM |
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The fasteners you describe are in fact authentic. A wire goes through the bolt head(s) and wraps around / ties to a small "out cropping" on the inner frame rail just parallel to the bolt(s). The side that has the spring allows the tank to move a bit if and when the frame flexes. If the tank were not allowed to move, it would eventually crack. The reproduction fuel gauge sending units have a very bad reputation. In fact, I have yet to hear a single testimony of one that worked correctly without at minimum a lot of "playing" around with it. As it is easy to remove and replace this unit, I would suggest you attempt to repair yours first. Be aware, the brass (reproduction) floats are often defective. Before installing it, I highly recommend you hold it under water and check for (bubbles) leaks. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 7-28-15 @ 6:35 AM
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| TomO | -- 07-28-2015 @ 6:55 AM |
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To add to Mike's very good advice, heat the water first. The hot water expands the trapped air in the float and will send a stream of small bubbles from the leak. Use a soldering iron to repair the float or return to the vendor for a replacement. The sending units were used up until 1955, so try to find a replacement if the wire inside yours is broken. Tom
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| RAK402 | -- 07-28-2015 @ 7:25 AM |
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Thank you very much for the extremely rapid response, gentlemen! Outstanding information! I will see what I can do with the original sending unit!
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| kubes40 | -- 07-28-2015 @ 8:03 AM |
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Tom, I am embarrassed to admit that I never thought of the hot water approach. Duh! You can bet the next time around I will use your method. I keep learning... Thanks. Mike
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| TomO | -- 07-28-2015 @ 6:11 PM |
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Mike, Don't be embarrassed, I learned that way in Auto Shop at Lane Tech back in the 1940's. All these years, I thought that everyone did it that way. I am still learning also. Sometimes I learn something that I knew 5 years ago, or 5 minutes ago. I can't remember which it is. When I stop learning, I will be ready for my casket. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 07-29-2015 @ 5:23 PM |
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Don't be talking caskets TomO, unless they have wheels and the Ford script!
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| RAK402 | -- 07-30-2015 @ 7:08 PM |
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Well, I took my time and cleaned up my original (at least I think it was the original) sending unit and went to install it in the repro (Vintique) gas tank-it did not fit. Apparently someone felt the need to reduce the size of the opening in the tank for the sending unit. As my original tank is really cruddy, I went ahead and installed the repro tank anyway, although it now looks as though I will be forced to use a repro sending unit. It was, by the way, much easier to get the new tank in than it was to get the old tank out. If my heater core were back and I had the sending unit, I would (I think) be able to start the car (just changed the water pumps, all five brake cylinders, and shoes). I am really looking forward to driving it again, even with all of the setbacks. Thank you all for your help.
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